Added a 12v outlet to my PWC

[adv bum]

Having an LRV (Luxury Recreational Vehicle) I thought it deserved a 12v outlet as an accessory.

So I got around to wiring in the bilge pump. I really did take some time to figure out where to put the switch. After staring, investigating, looking at the schematics, I came up with this location. Since I was there I also figured I would add a 12v outlet. I used an illuminated rocker switch so I could see when I had the bilge pump on. I think it came out looking like factory install.

 

[Bills86e]

Now you can pop an element in there and light your Sea-gar.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Having an LRV (Luxury Recreational Vehicle) I thought it deserved a 12v outlet as an accessory.

So I got around to wiring in the bilge pump. I really did take some time to figure out where to put the switch. After staring, investigating, looking at the schematics, I came up with this location. Since I was there I also figured I would add a 12v outlet. I used an illuminated rocker switch so I could see when I had the bilge pump on. I think it came out looking like factory install.

I installed one in my sportster too, ran 14 gauge stranded thhn cable to the helm and 15Amp fused at the battery. It's live all the time so I can even turn off the battery switch and plug the battery maintainer in the outlet. Those are useful for so many things, I have an rechargable LED flashlight I keep in the socket for a deck light at night, just turn it on and it lights up the entire deck. And I can plug my 50 Watt spotlight in there too!

I find that some PVC pipe can be epoxied in the hull to use as a wire conduit for pulling the cables through and makes a professional looking installation.

Great addition!

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I may have put it in the glove box, but it looks good.

 

[adv bum]

I installed one in my sportster too, ran 14 gauge stranded thhn cable to the helm and 15Amp fused at the battery. It's live all the time so I can even turn off the battery switch and plug the battery maintainer in the outlet. Those are useful for so many things, I have an rechargable LED flashlight I keep in the socket for a deck light at night, just turn it on and it lights up the entire deck. And I can plug my 50 Watt spotlight in there too!

I find that some PVC pipe can be epoxied in the hull to use as a wire conduit for pulling the cables through and makes a professional looking installation.

Great addition!

They are great for all kinds of stuff. Did you figure length/size of wire and amp capacity?

 

[adv bum]

I may have put it in the glove box, but it looks good.

Problem with the glove box is the door and the stuff in the glove box. I want to be able to run stuff without having the door open or have to deal with the stuff in the glove box. Having it horizontal and protected was a blessing. I thought about putting it with the gauges but that would of been a long run of wire.

 

[Mekanix]

Is that a marine switch or a walmart one ? It looks just like one I saw there, If so I'd worry about corrosion after a while. That plug should work just fine. I'm assuming its made with stainless steel and allows water to drain out.

 

[adv bum]

Is that a marine switch or a walmart one ? It looks just like one I saw there, If so I'd worry about corrosion after a while. That plug should work just fine. I'm assuming its made with stainless steel and allows water to drain out.

I got a couple of these off amazon a few years back. I was going to put them on my DualSport Motorcycles. They say marine on them and the plug came with a rubber boot that slide on the back. I will look at fluid film and see if I can coat the inside without affecting the function/ current flow. Any coating you would suggest? All my connections and splices for the wiring harness were heat/ shrink wrapped and then the whole harness wrapped in electrical tape. I did this for corrosion and and places that might rub on something.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

They are great for all kinds of stuff. Did you figure length/size of wire and amp capacity?

Yes, I often do custom wiring for boats and use standard national electric code rules to determine the wire proper size requirements for any accessories. I prefer this to using marine wiring requirements b/c the NEC is actually more strict in terms of wire gauge. Accordingly, 15A is the maximum current that a 14 AWG wire can handle for lengths significantly greater than most any boat installation and since 14AWG is good for 15A X 14 volts = 210Watts assuming the circuit is not voltage sensitive beyond 10%, such as lighting. Voltage sensitive devices (3% tolerance) should always take into account the wire resistance.

Since my largest appliance is just a 50 Watt spotlight and it isn't voltage sensitive, the 14AWG wire gauge chosen is plenty capable (by over 4x) for the average current of 3.6 Amps required for a 50 Watt appliance (50 Watts = 14 volts X 3.57 Amps) even considering there will be some rush current for an instant as the bulb is turned on. Thus, I simply fused the circuit at the source based on the maximum current capacity of the wire.

So I'm confident it's configured sufficiently considering the circuit is beyond acceptable marine requirements, Here is a link to the standard used for marine applications:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...View?langId=-1&storeId=11151&page=Marine-Wire

 

[adv bum]

Yes, I often do custom wiring for boats and use standard national electric code rules to determine the wire proper size requirements for any accessories. I prefer this to using marine wiring requirements b/c the NEC is actually more strict in terms of wire gauge. Accordingly, 15A is the maximum current that a 14 AWG wire can handle for lengths significantly greater than most any boat installation and since 14AWG is good for 15A X 14 volts = 210Watts assuming the circuit is not voltage sensitive beyond 10%, such as lighting. Voltage sensitive devices (3% tolerance) should always take into account the wire resistance.

Since my largest appliance is just a 50 Watt spotlight and it isn't voltage sensitive, the 14AWG wire gauge chosen is plenty capable (by over 4x) for the average current of 3.6 Amps required for a 50 Watt appliance (50 Watts = 14 volts X 3.57 Amps) even considering there will be some rush current for an instant as the bulb is turned on. Thus, I simply fused the circuit at the source based on the maximum current capacity of the wire.

So I'm confident it's configured sufficiently considering the circuit is beyond acceptable marine requirements, Here is a link to the standard used for marine applications:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...View?langId=-1&storeId=11151&page=Marine-Wire

The plug itself came wired with 16g( I think). Seemed small. I ran that 3-4 ft to the fuses, then 12g 3ft to the batteries. I think I am good. 15 amps should be enough for most things.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The plug itself came wired with 16g( I think). Seemed small. I ran that 3-4 ft to the fuses, then 12g 3ft to the batteries. I think I am good. 15 amps should be enough for most things.

Yes, that sounds good since based on the marine wiring standards 16g is good for up to 25A for short lengths. I physically place the fuse as close to the power source as possible, and install it on the positive wire. This way, it protects the entire length of the power feed In this case I used an "waterproof" inline flat blade fuse holder.