Accelerator Pump

[nate_4_01]

I checked to see if my accelerator pump was working on my 1997 Challenger and noticed that it sprayed gas into only one of the cylinders. I am thinking it is just clogged somewhere. what is the best way to go about fixing this?

 

[Waterluvr]

The accelerator pump nozzles are fed directly from the pump chamber to the inlet nipple behind the nozzles, and those orifices are really small and prone to plugging on a machine that sits.

You can remove the nozzles for cleaning, or if you prefer not to mess with them they will almost always open up from spraying through to them from the nipple with carb cleaner and a straw. Once they are spraying tilt the carb back a few times and spray toward the nozzle so the fluid can run backwards in the circuit when the pressure stops to let any crud in there run out.

Night and day difference in boat performance and rpm transition when you get those working! You'll see the spray from the nozzle when it flows carb cleaner, don't be stingy with it once it opens up let it have it several times.

 

[nate_4_01]

Thanks for the quick reply! i will try spraying from the chamber with the carb cleaner first. can i do this without taking the carbs out of the boat? and if so what do i have to disconnect before doing so?

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks for the quick reply! i will try spraying from the chamber with the carb cleaner first. can i do this without taking the carbs out of the boat? and if so what do i have to disconnect before doing so?

If you don't want to pull the carbs you can remove just the nozzle (they are pressed in). That's not so easy to do and get it right putting them back in given the awkward angle you're dealing with hanging over the edge of the boat. The problem is usually just at or near the orifice in the brass tip.

Good excuse to clean and kit the carbs and fuel pump anyway's, proper fuel delivery is so critical to the health of your motor and boat's performance it's time and money well spent.

On Edit:

I have a set of your carbs on the bench to work on right now, the red arrows show where the accelerator pump chamber sends fuel into the inlet nipple and it flows to the nozzles from there. You don't want to spray clean those installed on the boat, carb cleaner isn't kind to your pistons oil film and crank seals in the quantity it usually takes to get one opened up.

 

[howie099]

Also in line there is a restrictor jet in the rubber hoses for the accel pumps which Waterluvr is describing also. That clogs up to. That jet is suppose to slow down the recharging of the accel pumps so you don't starve the main fuel circuit when it refills. I seen people remove them with no issues also. The holes are so small some people can't clean them. Seadoo does still sell the jets. IF you take the carbs off just like it was mentioned go through and clean the carbs and replace the rubbers if need be if you don't know when they were done last.

 

[Waterluvr]

Nate so there's no confusion searching for something on the discharge side of the pump that isn't there, the *restrictor* Howie mentioned is only found inside the hose on the supply side of the accelerator pump. It's just a small brass jet with a .035 hole pushed right into the end of the fuel line from the rear carb body to the accelerator pump intake side.

Your's is obviously flowing fuel to that point as the pump diaphram and one of the nozzles is working ok and supplying fuel through the circuit.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Be careful trying to remove the nozzles, they can easily break off and I believe they were epoxied in place.

Remove the rubber tubing from the outer connection nipple and try to spray carburetor cleaner through the clogged nozzle to clear it. Clean the other one as well, while you're there.

 

[Waterluvr]

Nate for your charging issue, reference Challenger shop manual volume 1 -section 8 subsection 7 starting on page 08-07-2 for the magneto testing procedure and lmk when you have that test meter handy.

-Good job on the carbs! :thumbsup:

 

[Waterluvr]

Also you're going to want to get a piece of sheathed wire and two alligator clips to crimp on each end so you can can extend the reach of the ground lead on your new meter to make a few tests, about 5' should be enough.

Here's a quick test that will show you if the stator and the rectifier are charging and regulating DC voltage, you'll need that jumper wire to secure the negative black test ground lead so you can hold the end of the red wire and probe it with the positive test lead.

1. Disconnect the red lead coming out of the
rectifier / regulator.
2. Connect the multimeter + lead to the rectifier /
regulator red wire and the - lead to ground.
3. With the engine running at 5500 RPM, DC output
should be above 13.5 volts, but below 14.8
volts. If voltage is above or below these readings,
the rectifier / regulator is defective and
needs to be replaced.

 

[Waterluvr]

So you ripping a hole shot with that boat yet or what? Pretty bad when you get passed up by an old fishing boat with a 6 horse Elgin dangling off the back! - Just sayin

 

[nate_4_01]

Once I got the lines unclogged for the accelerator pump it is running great. No hesitation or bogging down and its up on plane in a matter of seconds. Thanks again for your help! Cant wait to take it out again!