Accel pump nozzles

[impalaman]

Please tell if anyone knows where I can get a accel pump nozzle for my carb!!
I have tried to unplug it several ways to no avail.Fuel shoots out of one nozzle but not the other,and there is fuel present in the line, so its not the drain back valve.I think it only comes with the carb.
I get the feeling that one cylinder gets a shot of fuel and the other one bogs (leaner).
Any ideas?

 

[JJinSC]

I had this same problem. I had to take the small hose that was feeding the nozzle off and shoot a little carb cleaner through it. Then follow it up with a few blast of compressed air. After I got mine unclogged, the nozzles still seemed to loose their prime, so I think the in-line check valve just after the accellerator pump may need cleaning on mine. I plan on rebuilding in the spring anyways.

 

[kustomkarl]

If you mean the small brass tube in the throat of the carb, Use compressed air to blow through it. It needs a lot of pressure to work, you won't be able to blow it open by mouth. I had the same problem on my 787 engine in my Jet boat. A little compressed air did wonders.

Karl

 

[mudpie]

alot of times the accel pump body has a problem
inside is a spring and a tiny ball bearing, this is the check valve
the spring and ball can become stuck with corrosion
if stuck closed, no fuel at all
if stuck open, it will bleed off pressure and you wont get a good squirt at first
most off the time when this happens the carb closest to the pump gets a good squirt,but the other carb will not
you can check this with a little pick thru one of the fuel lines to the pump,
i forget which one, its been awhile on this for me
but if you take the pick, you can feel the ball bearing move against the spring
move it back and forth and spray some carb clean thru it, repeat several times while clearing with compressed air
good luck
mud

 

[JJinSC]

Wow, This sounds like exactly what mine is doing. The nozzle on the PTO carb gets a good squirt every time (it's closest to the A-pump), but the MAG carb does not seem to get a good squirt at all even when the nozzle is not clogged.

I am planning on ordering a rebuild kit this spring and re-building the carbs. What is the best way of clearing this issue while I'm in there. Since I will have the carbs apart, should I take the A-pump apart and clean well? Will this resolve it??

 

[seadoosnipe]

brake/carb cleaner...

Wow, This sounds like exactly what mine is doing. The nozzle on the PTO carb gets a good squirt every time (it's closest to the A-pump), but the MAG carb does not seem to get a good squirt at all even when the nozzle is not clogged.

I am planning on ordering a rebuild kit this spring and re-building the carbs. What is the best way of clearing this issue while I'm in there. Since I will have the carbs apart, should I take the A-pump apart and clean well? Will this resolve it??

When checking this problem, I usually disconnect the outlet line from the accelerator pump. I take the red straw, connect it to the can of carb/brake parts cleaner and give a squirt. I watch inside each carb for the squirt to come through each nozzle. I will do this, normally a couple times.

It seems, in my opinion and experience, it's mostly caused from the fuel gumming up the spring and ball of the check valve. That's why it's a really good idea to use Stabil when winterizing..........:cheers:

 

[JJinSC]

How many check valves is in the A-pump assembly? It appears from everything I have read that there is..
1) in the pump itself (ball and spring)
2) Mine has what looks like an in-line check valve in the outlet line, before the two small lines split to go to each carb.
3) I saw on A diagram somewhere that there is one at the elbow where the small lines attach to each carb.

Is this correct?? Why so many??

One more question. Will the carb cleaner hurt the a-pump diaphragm with the method described??

EDITED to ADD: I went back to the diagram and saw that the check valve on the elbow was actually on the outlet of the a-pump and not the inlets to the nozzles, which probably means #1 and #2 above are one in the same. Still wondering why mine has an in-line check valve just after the one on the a-pump then. Also, still concerned about the carb cleaner affecting the diaphragm??

Thanks.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Carb cleaner...

How many check valves is in the A-pump assembly? It appears from everything I have read that there is..
1) in the pump itself (ball and spring)
2) Mine has what looks like an in-line check valve in the outlet line, before the two small lines split to go to each carb.
3) I saw on A diagram somewhere that there is one at the elbow where the small lines attach to each carb.

Is this correct?? Why so many??

One more question. Will the carb cleaner hurt the a-pump diaphragm with the method described??

EDITED to ADD: I went back to the diagram and saw that the check valve on the elbow was actually on the outlet of the a-pump and not the inlets to the nozzles, which probably means #1 and #2 above are one in the same. Still wondering why mine has an in-line check valve just after the one on the a-pump then. Also, still concerned about the carb cleaner affecting the diaphragm??

Thanks.

To replace that diaphragm, your looking at $200 bucks. The parts houses don't sell just the diaphragm, they want you to buy the entire thing. I did find a place last year that sold just the diaphragm but did not bookmark it. I'll have to look for it again because I got one on my Challenger. The diaphragm is basically a reinforced rubber pump. Like most rubber, it's going to be impervious to chemical compounds. But, I would still probably elect to gently take the 4 screws out and seperate it and clean it maually. I'd only use the sprary through the fuel lines into the nozzles of the carb.

The one on your outlet is an aftermarket and likely installed for security. The check valves are necessary for the function of the pump. When you depress the cam, the pressure pushing down on the diaphragm closes off the fuel inlet (check valve) and puts pressure on the outlet side, till it overcomes the spring pressure on the ball check. When that's done, the fuel will now, under pressure, squirt through your nozzles. Once depleted, the check valves will close till you let off the throttle. When your accelerating, the cam on the accelerator pump remains depressed till you pull back on your throttle, therefore, once you have your initial squirt of gas, the boat/ski takes off, pressure is released in that system, the ball valves will close off that system. Then, when you pull back the throttle, the cam will travel in the reverse direction, the ball check in the suction line will open and fill the chamber with fuel again, in preparation for your next take off.:cheers:

 

[greyrider]

you can find the diaphragms here for under 15 bucks - f you fish around there they have nozzles too.
better yet - google 'MIKUNI DIAPHRAGM' after the D word punch in 'square' or 'round' depending on which ones you need. several pop up
http://ad-discountperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1028_80_1014&products_id=5884
good luck

 

[seadoosnipe]

Nice find....

Man, that's dirt cheap. Wasn't long ago, the only way to get those diaphragms was to buy the entire pump assembly for just over $200 bucks. They carry both SBN and BN carb parts.

I did see parts there for other than PWC's so, make sure you are in the right category. They appear to sell parts for floated carbs that are used in motorcylcles and probably, snowmobiles. So, if you aren't sure which one you need, shoot me PM and I'll help you out.

For those of you who have the Mikuni with the accelerator, you might think of ordering a couple now in case they become a discontinued item. I'm going to send off for a few myself.............:cheers:

 

[impalaman]

Accell pump nozzles

Thanks again to all that have taken the time to reply to my query. Please believe me when I say that I have done all that I can to find the actual fiittings that come on the OEM carb that allow the gas to shoot from the carb into the air stream.
Does anyone know of a place or part number that I can get to ensure that these are not part of my problem??
I will get a diaphram from the above mentioned discount parts place,plus clean the check valve,check ball,check this check that...I'll do it all.
BUT, there is a few screws/pre-loaded springs/levers/rollers and other adjustments on this pump-thingy,and to top it ALL OFF..I got these carbs off EBAY!!One can only wonder if anyone has fooled around with the seetings
I mean BRP spend ****loads of cash making adjustments before handing it over to us that someone must know the settings on the Accellerator pump.

Thanks, Greg

 

[seadoosnipe]

Cams....springs....?

No.....your reading a lot more into it than there really is. You'll set your cam position once you have your carbs on and in sync. The only thing you have in setting that cam, is to adjust the roller to begin putting pressure on your diaphragm from the moment you begin to apply pressure on the throttle.

What I do personally to check and clean this system is relatively simple. Chances are, your diaphragm actuated accelerator pump is working fine. It's normally the nozzles and check valves that gum up on you.

Go to the auto parts store and buy a can of carb cleaner. On the side of the can, there is a red plastic straw. Attach this to your can. Disconnect the outlet fuel line from your diaphragm pump. Push that red straw tube inside just a bit, then using your fingers, make a temp seal to direct the fluid toward the carbs. Now, push down on your nozzle of the carb cleaner. Observe your nozzles inside the carb. If you see nice streams coming through the nozzles, then your system from the pump to the carbs is fine. The other thing is to make sure your connections at the "T" are tight and also, where the fuel line connects to the nipples at the carb. Here, I use those tiny wire ties to do that. Make sure they are good and tight, then cut off the excess.

Now, if you haven't alread bleed all the fuel from your accelerator pump. Put the fuel line back on the discharge that has that inline check valve. Disconnet is from your first fitting at the "T". Using that cam lever, wind back on it a couple times to see if you get fuel to squirt through it. If not, you may need to turn your motor over a little to allow your fuel pump to re-supply the chamber for fuel. If you try again and get no fuel, you'll need to break that pump down and check the internal check valves (ball and spring) to make sure it's functioning.

This pump is a simple actuated pump. When you push the lever in, pushes down on the diaphragm. When the diaphragm drops, it puts pressure on the ball check that is from the inlet side of your fuel system, builds pressure, overcomes the ball check on the outle side and pressurizes the fuel line going to your carbs, to give it that little squirt for that quik burst of acceleration. When you idle back down, the cam draws backward. When this happens, the diaphragm is retracting and pulling agains't that ball valve coning from the fuel inlet side, while the vacuum on it keeps your outlet ball check shut.

So, it's a really simple type pump. Just take your time and be patient, you'll get it............:cheers:

 

[seadooya]

Beating a dead horse

Considering, and as a observation of the ski's you have listed in your avatar, you bought the wrong carb styles, because those ski's you have, DO NOT have A-Pumps, rejet the carbs to 142.5 main, and 70 lows, cap off the brass fittings, and be done with it....