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!995 Seadoo Speedster/Can't get piston off of connecting rod
- Thread starter deacon
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Special tool....
It's not actually pressed, but in a way, thats the best way to describe it. You'll need a tool called a "piston pin puller". When you pull the pin out, the pin bearings and thrust washers stay in place. They can be reused.
If it were me (Mcgyver), I'd find a piece of pipe, about 3" long with an inside diameter that's just over the outside diameter of the wrist pin. Get a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 inch all thread, about 7 inches long. Then, I'd buy a few washers that fit to the pipe on one side, over the outside diameter of the pipe (to pull against), then I'd find a couple washers that were the same outside diameter, or a bit smaller, of the wrist pin. Then, I'd put nuts on those washers. Tighten up from the side the pipe is on.
When you tighten the nuts, it should pull the pin into the inside of that pipe. You only have to pull a couple inches before the old piston is able to slide off the connecting rod. The wrist pin roller bearings, thrust washers are re-usuable.
To put the new piston back on, you'll have to warm it in an over to about 122 to 140 degrees F to allow the wrist pin to easily slide in place.
This procedure has many tolerances and measurements that need to be done while swapping out a piston. Going in with a new piston, you may want to have a new cylinder wall sleeve or complete cylinder. These engines spinn upward of 7k rpm. The tolerances are critical to this type engine.
Good luck, and should you think about it, the manuals in our library go over the changing of a piston, the connecting rod and all the bearings and bushings. The membership fee is a small price to pay for the information you'll be able to have at your fingertips.
It's not actually pressed, but in a way, thats the best way to describe it. You'll need a tool called a "piston pin puller". When you pull the pin out, the pin bearings and thrust washers stay in place. They can be reused.
If it were me (Mcgyver), I'd find a piece of pipe, about 3" long with an inside diameter that's just over the outside diameter of the wrist pin. Get a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 inch all thread, about 7 inches long. Then, I'd buy a few washers that fit to the pipe on one side, over the outside diameter of the pipe (to pull against), then I'd find a couple washers that were the same outside diameter, or a bit smaller, of the wrist pin. Then, I'd put nuts on those washers. Tighten up from the side the pipe is on.
When you tighten the nuts, it should pull the pin into the inside of that pipe. You only have to pull a couple inches before the old piston is able to slide off the connecting rod. The wrist pin roller bearings, thrust washers are re-usuable.
To put the new piston back on, you'll have to warm it in an over to about 122 to 140 degrees F to allow the wrist pin to easily slide in place.
This procedure has many tolerances and measurements that need to be done while swapping out a piston. Going in with a new piston, you may want to have a new cylinder wall sleeve or complete cylinder. These engines spinn upward of 7k rpm. The tolerances are critical to this type engine.
Good luck, and should you think about it, the manuals in our library go over the changing of a piston, the connecting rod and all the bearings and bushings. The membership fee is a small price to pay for the information you'll be able to have at your fingertips.
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Karl
Karl
ok; your 2 pieces of pipe. a 3/8 inch drive deep 3/8 or 7/16 socket. big piece of pipe; a half inch drive 7/8 inch deep socket. pull both circlips. tighten all thread against both sockets. it should go pretty easy. if not, tap on the small socket end once pressure is applied-holding piston and pushing it towards the hammer. most of these motors have caged upper bearings. my 97 GTI had uncaged bearings. i pulled pins. 34 needle bearings jumped out and dropped into my crankcase. not a big deal for me, i was doing the crank. sounds like you are doing a piston and that's it. if you drop a needle into your case, or if you THINK you MAY have dropped a needle you have to be SURE you got it out. put piston all way up. lean it over to side as far as will go. stuff hole full of rags. duct tape over rags. then it'll be a caged bearing and you didn't have anything to worry about. your new piston will come with a new pin. spend 10 bucks on a new upper bearing. the new pin won't be a fight to put in. that is the shot piston the pin is currently stuck in.
bearings...
Correct on the bearings and a good point. The new bearings sold now are closed, so you won't have to worry. But the wrist pin bearings are re-usable too. So you may not need to go that far. If your mechanically inclined enough to pull the piston, then I'm sure you know how to inspect and check for flat spots in bearings.
Being a 1995 (orignial engine?) if that bearing hasn't been replaced, then you may want to go ahead and do it. Follow derek's instructions on protecting the crank assembly, or you'll be splitting the casing. :cheers:
Good point derek :agree:
Correct on the bearings and a good point. The new bearings sold now are closed, so you won't have to worry. But the wrist pin bearings are re-usable too. So you may not need to go that far. If your mechanically inclined enough to pull the piston, then I'm sure you know how to inspect and check for flat spots in bearings.
Being a 1995 (orignial engine?) if that bearing hasn't been replaced, then you may want to go ahead and do it. Follow derek's instructions on protecting the crank assembly, or you'll be splitting the casing. :cheers:
Good point derek :agree:
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