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99' Speedster SK Stereo Install

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flyingarmy

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Started my install on the Speedster SK. So far I have all the holes cut for the 6.5 JBL speakers, the Kenwood head is installed and I have run the wires for both the AMP power and all the speaker wires. Kudos to everyone who gave me suggestions on the installation and to those that had threads on thier installs.

This is what I started with:

-Kenwood KMR-700U
-4 X JBL MS-6200 6.5 Speakers
-JBL MA6004 360W Amplifier
-30 ft 16 guage speaker wire
-20 ft 8 guage power wire
-10ft flexible conduit cover

Before cutting:




Front storage port side storage area where radio/amp will be installed. You can see the stock wire bundle zip tied to the side (Factory radio power and speaker wires). I opted to run new speaker wires since I didn't know the condition of the original factory wires. I'll use the power wires for the Kenwood.



I taped off each hole before cutting with a 5" hole saw. I started the cut with the drill center guide and then removed it after I had a good start into the fiberglass. I did this to ensure it wasn't drilling into anything on the other side. Definitely a pucker factor when cutting holes like this into your boat, but all turned out well. Just cut slow and paticularly at the last part when it cuts through all the way.



After cutting the speaker holes:

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I made the power cable for the amp and used flexible conduit cover to make sure it doesn't chafe. I use a wire guide and ran it to the back by the battery. I attached the positive to the master switch and the negative will go to the negative battery post.

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Next I moved the passenger handle up, used a chisel and hammer to take off the liquid nail holding the screw plates on the inside of the storage compartment. The radio head was not as wide an the holes from the handle so I used calk to fill in each hole. One is covered by the readio head the otehr is on the left side which you can barely see. I use the template and drilled the screw holes and the cut a 1/8" hole to start my jig saw cutting of the faceplate hole. Took a few tries to get it perfect but I wanted the head to fit snuggly.

Template:
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Kenwood installed:
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I thought I had more blade connectors so I only installed the 2 back speakers. Having a electricians wire guide is a must! The starboard speaker wires ran out of the back of the storage compartment and then down through the ski locker.

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I cut a board to screw the amp into and used liquid nail to mount it in the bottom of the storage compartment. I put the remote Kenwood box on the back wall of the storage compartment. Very limited space on placing it all, but seemed to work out so far.

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I still have to install the 2 front speakers, hook up the power to the radio and amp and hook the amp up. Hopefully I'll get some time one of the evenings this week, if not it will be next weekend. Ran out of time and energy today! I'll post up a continuation for the rest of the install when I get it finished. Can't wait to hear how it sounds!

I am also going to install a Blue Seas fuse box in the other compartment. I just took one off my motorcycle that I used to run my GPS, driving lights, automatic oiler and several other gadgets. I am going to use the power from the accessory plug with an additional relay/fuse for safety.

I haven't installed my volt guage that I bought a while ago. Looking for the best place. The dash is already max'ed out in my opinion and I am thinking about placing it next to the master battery switch. Would make it easy seeing the volts right as you switch it on, but wouldn't be convienent for checking volts while cruising. Where does everyone think I should put it?

I am planning on installing a second battery in parallel and use the lockable Perko switch. I have a Waterproof Battery Tender that I will install also with a plug inlet on the outside of the boat. That will be next months project.

Once I get everything cleaned up I'll install the custom Black with Yellow Cut Groove Hydro-Turf. Thought I'd wait till all the mod's are complete to keep from messing it up. Thanks for reading and hope this helps others as much as I learned from others installs.

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look'n good. Any ?'s, role up my bud, rfoster....with all that run'n thru the boat, you gotta dead spot, up by port rpm gauge, i'd hook up a volt gauge.
 
I was half asleep last night, so I thought I would check this out again. Sooo, on the Kenwood is it just a plate that mounts there and then that big box is basically the unit? Looking in the compartment I dont see the back of the actual head unit, but I wasnt sure if you took the pic without it in.

I was also thinking about the voltmeter. I kinda thought you said in the past that you had something else mounted on the dash where I put it. My first thought was to actually mount it by the battery switch, so thats not a bad idea. It is definitely gonna be easier.
 
I was half asleep last night, so I thought I would check this out again. Sooo, on the Kenwood is it just a plate that mounts there and then that big box is basically the unit? Looking in the compartment I dont see the back of the actual head unit, but I wasnt sure if you took the pic without it in.

I was also thinking about the voltmeter. I kinda thought you said in the past that you had something else mounted on the dash where I put it. My first thought was to actually mount it by the battery switch, so thats not a bad idea. It is definitely gonna be easier.

The Kenwood head unit is about the same size as a normal radio head unit, little taller but not as wide and deep. The main unit box is mounted against the front wall of the storage compartment. Everything attaches to it, pre-outs, power, antenna, remote, etc. I am actually surprised the head unit was that big since everything is in the main unit. I think I might go with the voltmeter right by the battery switch. Should I run it directly to the battery or to the master switch? I doubt it draws much power.
 
Thats crazy the head unit has that big box. wonder why they didnt just make it like a normal radio. I guess they figure you can mount that part in a controlled area that wont be exposed to water.

With the voltmeter, it should be hooked to the side of the switch that gets power when it is on. That way it only gets power when on. Also if you add a 2nd battery down the road, it will read whichever is switched on. It is just reading what it is connected to. It doesnt actually "use" much electricity at all really, so you can just splice it to one of the existing wires coming off that post.
 
A second battery is next months project. There is room for the battery right next to the factory battery if I move the battery box and turn it. The second battery will fit right next to it. If I do it right I can use the existing bolt holes for both battery boxes. I have been doing a lot of research on adding a second battery and how to hook up the battery tender and it should be fairly simple. I have to figure out where to put this:

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It will connect directly to my battery tender so I can just get home and plug in the boat to keep the batteries charged.
 
I use a die hard battery maintainer. It comes with a standard 12 volt lighter type plug, so it can charge through that plug. I installed a 12 volt receptacle in the rear storage area next to the battery switch. It serves 2 purposes, i can charge both batteries just by plugging in and i can also use it on the boat. I plug in my air pump to fill the tube or people can use it for a phone charger and stuff.

I highly recommend any type of quick plug for charging. Beats having to take out the storage compartment tray to access the battery every time. Make sure to add pics of where you put the battery.
 
Looking really good! ! Doesn't look like you have run into any complications!!



Been around 26-30 degrees up here doing PT in the A.M. at Eustis!
 
Don't forget to completely seal where you mounted the amp at with clear silicone. Water will rocket right up the footrest area into that chamber. I learned the hard way.
 
Don't forget to completely seal where you mounted the amp at with clear silicone. Water will rocket right up the footrest area into that chamber. I learned the hard way.

Are you doing sub moves with the boat? I didnt seal that gap and have never had a drop of water in there.
 
No subbing. When you wash the cabin down that floor ramps water directly into that chamber. There's a 1/4 gap in there.
 
I havent had a problem with the little gap. I guess maybe im not spraying water at the right angle. Maybe I will seal it up just in case.
 
Oh you'll find eventually. I found it 5 minutes after finishing my install while rinsing the dust off the floor. Lol
 
I am going to seal it just in case. Never hurts to be more careful...especially when it comes to expensive electronics. Even though these are IPX5/7 rated, I'd rather add the extra measure. Thanks for the input.
 
Last night I sealed the storage compartment with clear slicone. The gap was large than I thought, at least 1/4" at some spots. Water won't have a chance to get near the AMP/Radio now.

I finished all the wiring connections for the AMP, radio and speakers. The front speakers are in, minus drilling the pilot holes for the screws. Tonight I am going to hook everything up, install the battery and give it a test run. Can't wait to hear how it sounds.
 
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