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98 sportster 1800 ready for first launch, need crash course on what to do..

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jeffbeckib

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ok, new engines in. SBT sent me 1 liter of break-in oil, but manual says to add 2 liters to a full tank. I really don't want to fill the tank only to find the boat might still not run, so I'll just fill it 1/2 way and use the 1 liter sbt sent me. Boat is obviously very old, and I don't know what to expect, or if there are any tricks or tips for how to use the chokes etc. I have never owned a boat, and don't know what possessed me to purchase a 15 year old Jet Boat, so I have no experience at all. I don't even know how to start the engines LOL

Before putting the boat in the salt water to test the engines, I want to obviously just hook them up to a garden hose and run the engines. So here are a few questions I have.

1) If I only have 1 hose, do I just test 1 engine at a time? or do I have to get some kind of Y connector?
2) Is it better to connect hose to top connectors? or the ones at the transom?
If I use the ones at the top, can't I simply screw in plugs at the transom instead of pinching off the hose by T connector
at the engine?
3) What are the steps to flushing the engines properly? I have the manual, but its a little confusing to me.

4) Where should I inspect for any leaking ?
 
1) Run one engine at a time.

2) Use the top connection, since the rear outlet has a restrictor in it. Since there is a restrictor, if you have enough flow from your garden hose... you don't have to pinch off anything. Also... without a load on the engine, you won't build much heat.

3) Start the engine, turn on the water, let it idle for 20~30 seconds, turn off the water, turn off the engine. DO NOT turn the water on before starting the engine. If you do... you can fill the exhaust, and put water into the engine. ALSO, DO NOT run the engines very long out of the water. The carbon seal is cooled/lubed via the water it's sitting it, and when on the trailer, the seal(s) will overheat, and eat themselves.

4) Everywhere. I know that's vague, but it's the truth. Also... you won't develop enough pressure on the hose to really find the leaks. SO.... you will be doing your leak test on your first ride.


Personally.... I would take the boat to the water, and put the ass end into the water, but still on the trailer. Then, start one engine at a time, and see what you have. (That's how I do it at my shop) Without a load, you don't know how it's actually running... and this method keeps the cabon seal happy, and puts enough water pressure in the engine to find any leaks.
 
Dr Honda said:
Personally.... I would take the boat to the water, and put the ass end into the water, but still on the trailer. Then, start one engine at a time, and see what you have. (That's how I do it at my shop) Without a load, you don't know how it's actually running... and this method keeps the cabon seal happy, and puts enough water pressure in the engine to find any leaks.
Click to expand...

Right there^^^

keep the boat tied down to the trailer , and submerse the back end, make sure the grates/tunnel intakes are under the water...

then do what Doc says!!!

I`ve found many leaks this way, from engine misalignment to melted exhaust parts...

you should be rpm limited with the shifter in neutral, if you want to crack the engines past 3000-3300 rpms speed push the shifter into Forward... remember to return them to neutral, bc they will not or should not restart in Forward or reverse.

good luck...
 
So I should only let engines run at idle? No increase in rpms?
And is 1 liter if breakin oil enough?

Dr Honda said:
1) Run one engine at a time.

2) Use the top connection, since the rear outlet has a restrictor in it. Since there is a restrictor, if you have enough flow from your garden hose... you don't have to pinch off anything. Also... without a load on the engine, you won't build much heat.

3) Start the engine, turn on the water, let it idle for 20~30 seconds, turn off the water, turn off the engine. DO NOT turn the water on before starting the engine. If you do... you can fill the exhaust, and put water into the engine. ALSO, DO NOT run the engines very long out of the water. The carbon seal is cooled/lubed via the water it's sitting it, and when on the trailer, the seal(s) will overheat, and eat themselves.

4) Everywhere. I know that's vague, but it's the truth. Also... you won't develop enough pressure on the hose to really find the leaks. SO.... you will be doing your leak test on your first ride.


Personally.... I would take the boat to the water, and put the ass end into the water, but still on the trailer. Then, start one engine at a time, and see what you have. (That's how I do it at my shop) Without a load, you don't know how it's actually running... and this method keeps the cabon seal happy, and puts enough water pressure in the engine to find any leaks.
Click to expand...
 
I'm with the others...

I'd fire it up at home just to KNOW they will start. If they do, head to the ramp.
Don't forget to put in the plug..

At the ramp you can let them run for a very long time and feel comfortable that all is safe.
 
jeffbeckib said:
I thought I want to run freshwater through the engines after being in salt water
Click to expand...

You do.

Especially with a 2-stroke engine as the salt water is doing the actual cooling. Meaning that the salt water is physically touching the internal components of your engine.

The 4-tech engine have a closed sloop system which means that the actual water that does the cooling is NOT the water you are riding in. It is like a car radiator where the air passes through the radiator and cools the water within the radiator then the radiator water cools the engine. On a 4-tech ski with closed loop the water you are riding on passes through a heat exchanged which cools the water that cools the engine.

You should still flush closed loop systems after salt water as well, but it is not as crucial only for the fact that the salt water never touches the engine itself.
 
So is the process for a 2 stroke the same as mentioned at the beginning? Just run the engine for 20-30 secs with hose connected?
 
Update is as follows:

It's not as easy to set a boat on fire as I had hoped lol:facepalm::face palm:


Just kidding.
Battery was dead, so had to charge the battery, and between being in the middle of moving and having to take a bus trip to Jacksonville, it will have to wait till next Tuesday.


Pale Rider said:
any updates???
Click to expand...
 
jeffbeckib said:
Update is as follows:

It's not as easy to set a boat on fire as I had hoped lol:facepalm::face palm:


Just kidding.
Battery was dead, so had to charge the battery, and between being in the middle of moving and having to take a bus trip to Jacksonville, it will have to wait till next Tuesday.
Click to expand...

did you wind up buying an alignment tool?
 
Gonna try this again

so I'm going to try again this week to test the boat in the water, But I'm still confused about the flushing part. So as I understand it, it's best to test it by backing the boat on the trailer into the water so I can run the engines as long as I need. But what about out of the water? I get the boat back home, and then what? hook the garden hose to the connectors and run each motor only a few seconds? Cause that's all I was told to do when I wanted to just test the motors, isn't it the same procedure as flushing the engines?




Coastiejoe said:
You do.

Especially with a 2-stroke engine as the salt water is doing the actual cooling. Meaning that the salt water is physically touching the internal components of your engine.

The 4-tech engine have a closed sloop system which means that the actual water that does the cooling is NOT the water you are riding in. It is like a car radiator where the air passes through the radiator and cools the water within the radiator then the radiator water cools the engine. On a 4-tech ski with closed loop the water you are riding on passes through a heat exchanged which cools the water that cools the engine.

You should still flush closed loop systems after salt water as well, but it is not as crucial only for the fact that the salt water never touches the engine itself.
Click to expand...
 
Anytime your boat/ski is run in salt water you need to flush the engines.

So yes, when you get home hook it pinto the hose

It goes, start engine, turn on hose, run for about a minute, turn off hose, turn off engine.

If you turn on the hose first you can put water into the cylinders. Again, engine on, hose on, hose off, engine off.
 
so 1 minute on each engine is all I need to flush them, and that's it?



Coastiejoe said:
Anytime your boat/ski is run in salt water you need to flush the engines.

So yes, when you get home hook it pinto the hose

It goes, start engine, turn on hose, run for about a minute, turn off hose, turn off engine.

If you turn on the hose first you can put water into the cylinders. Again, engine on, hose on, hose off, engine off.
Click to expand...
 
Battery was dead again, running to Walmart to get a new battery and will test again. Anything special I should know or do before I start the engines? they've been sitting for 6 months with no oil or gas going through them. And how long should i expect them to crank before they start? I'm assuming I leave it in Neutral and thrusters all the way down, pull choke and hit start while holding the choke out right?
to kill the engines just pull the key?
 
Okay finally got the motors started
the new SBT motor sounded nice and made no smoke however the other motor was making quite a bit of smoke
could it just be the oil that's been sitting in there? Since that motor was fine but it did sit for six months without running
Sea-Doo did a compression test on the good motor
and it was fine
 
Okay finally got the motors started
the new SBT motor sounded nice and made no smoke however the other motor was making quite a bit of smoke
could it just be the oil that's been sitting in there? Since that motor was fine but it did sit for six months without running
Sea-Doo did a compression test on the good motor
and it was fine
 
yup...
probably just storage oil burning out... or worst case a leaking RV seal...

did you rebuild all 4 carbs before recommissioning the boat?
 
did not do anything with Carbs, but they were both tuned just before I purchased the boat about 6 months ago

If it's the RV seal am I causing more damage by running the boat? I need to get it in the water to check for leaks, but I don't want to just run that smoking engine if It could lead to yet Another engine replacement.


Pale Rider said:
yup...
probably just storage oil burning out... or worst case a leaking RV seal...

did you rebuild all 4 carbs before recommissioning the boat?
Click to expand...
 
jeffbeckib said:
did not do anything with Carbs, but they were both tuned just before I purchased the boat about 6 months ago
Click to expand...

Famous last words... just before the engines melt from running lean.

BE VERY CAREFUL. Any signs of being lean, and STOP THE ENGINES !! I would highly recomend verifying the fuel system.

jeffbeckib said:
If it's the RV seal am I causing more damage by running the boat? I need to get it in the water to check for leaks, but I don't want to just run that smoking engine if It could lead to yet Another engine replacement.
Click to expand...

Nope. The internal seals wear, and they will leak. If you started it, and it's just smokey... it's fine. (that's what 2-strokes do)
 
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