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98 speedster proposing....

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baxterm

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Hey everyone, I have a 98 speedster, and when I run it on the lake, I can sit at 5500 and she will be nice and smooth across the lake, but when I go past that, it starts proposing. Is there any way I can fix this so I can still do the 180 spins, and get my top speed without proposing. Oh ya it's the twin 787 motors.
 
I used to have the 98' speedster an never had this issue. How many ppl are in the boat?
 
I assume that you have some sort of ameans to adjust the trim of the nozzles/jets ?

If so, have you tried to adjust them to where they push the bow back down?
 
I googled your boat and the words trim and tab and that came up in several posts.

I did not look deep enough to see the cost. I would strongly suggest checking with Amazon though as they seem to be the snot out of everyone when it comes to price..

I saved over 300 dollars buying my 2.5 degree wedge, Solas inmpeller and top loader grate by going through Amazon.
 
I have a 99 I can keep it pasted at 7 grand and have no problems with some ripple on the surface, until I catch a small wake and it porpoise city. Then I just drop the throttles back until it stops then drop the hammer again. When the water is smooth as glass it's a little more prevalent. The problem is there is not much boat in the water so it doesn't take much do cause it to do it. Trim tabs would help resolve the issue, but with the shape of the hull back there it's all but impossible.

When you are getting the porpoise effect is the bow just bouncing up and down smoothly or are the pumps loosing water and your bouncing off the rev limiter and it feels like a bucking bronco?

Do you have any water in the hull, ski locker etc.... Have you tried anyone in the suicide seat (front seat) to try to get a few more pounds up front to keep the bow in the water a bit more(would be the effect of trim tabs). Perhaps I don't see it as much as that is my sons favorite seat and he's probably 50#. The boat does like a bit of ripple on the surface for sure, and then there is the chop you have to contend with, where an extra couple of feet added length of the boat would be better.
 

Would be nice but not available for the twin engine Speedster, I think you can get trim tabs for the single engine Merc boats. I've thought of pump wedges, HX trim kits etc... but never followed thru. Mine doesn't porpoise bad enough for me to worry. There are so many factor that change with these boats, heck the wind changes direction and I can feel it. My son and I were topped out and came around a hard right hand turn and the wind got under the hull and lifted us up and we were not touching water for a good 5 to 6 feet. It was almost time for dad to change his drawers on that one! The power to weight ration is sick on these things, making it nearly impossible to get insurance. I actually have to give the insurance companies the jet pump horsepower so I could get insurance. 220 HP vs. 72 hp from the pumps combined, some places even laughed at me when I told them what boat I wanted to insure.
 
If you bought a wedge and installed it upside down that would have to help. It may affect out of hole and top end speed in a negatve manner, but the ride would be better.

The max I think is a 2.5 degree wedge. If you were to buy a 1.0 or a 1.25 it may be all that you need. And,,, it is a cheap option cmpared to trim tabs and what not...
 
Some steering nozzles have two holes for the bottom pivot screw. This allows the steering nozzle to slightly point up, or slightly down depending on which hole is used.
Might check your nozzles and see if, in fact they contain the extra adjustment hole. If they do then make sure the nozzle is pointing slightly downward.

I had a couple 94 SPX's that had the extra hole. If I changed the hole to allow the steering nozzle to slightly point up the nose of the ski would really come out of the water. Made it great for wave jumping, but not for WOT. --- Just a thought!!
 
It bounces violently engines out of water,hitting rev limiter, I have tried people in the front and they were almost bounced out of the boat. No water in the hull, the lake is dead calm. I would try the wedges, but where can u pick them up? I think the nozzles are pointing slightly down, but I will check when I get home,
 
I have a 99 I can keep it pasted at 7 grand and have no problems with some ripple on the surface, until I catch a small wake and it porpoise city. Then I just drop the throttles back until it stops then drop the hammer again. When the water is smooth as glass it's a little more prevalent. The problem is there is not much boat in the water so it doesn't take much do cause it to do it. Trim tabs would help resolve the issue, but with the shape of the hull back there it's all but impossible.

When you are getting the porpoise effect is the bow just bouncing up and down smoothly or are the pumps loosing water and your bouncing off the rev limiter and it feels like a bucking bronco?

Do you have any water in the hull, ski locker etc.... Have you tried anyone in the suicide seat (front seat) to try to get a few more pounds up front to keep the bow in the water a bit more(would be the effect of trim tabs). Perhaps I don't see it as much as that is my sons favorite seat and he's probably 50#. The boat does like a bit of ripple on the surface for sure, and then there is the chop you have to contend with, where an extra couple of feet added length of the boat would be better.

I agree totally. Mine only does it if i catch a wave or another wake just right. But once it starts, it will bounce all day if i keep the throttle in the same spot. If i just back it off for a second thought it levels out and i hammer it again.
 
Not mine it will start bouncing I will back off the throttle let it smooth out then hammer it again, it will just start bouncing again on a calm lake no ripples or waves
 
I did some google research and found the part number for my wedge. Then I went to Amazon and out the part number in. I paid $168.00 with a steering extension for my RXT-X. It is 98 bucks without the extension.
 
I heard the pumps on the 98 speedster were the same as some as the pwc, does anyone know which ones are the same?
 
The difference between a ski pump and a boat pump are on the ski's they have the siphon tubes for the bailers. Which are not needed on the boats, they have the electric bilge pump. The pump is a 140mm pump, so if you got two pump wedges for a ski with a 140 pump you would need to cut off the extra for the bailers because you want to install them with the wedge at the top to push the nose down. I want to say up to 99 some ski's had the 140 pumps and a few had the 155's(XPL and GSXL possibly had the 155's????) I think it may be harder to find a pump wedge now for a 140 pump since they haven't been used for a long time.

You can see the two extra holes at the top for the bailers

88.jpg
 
Smaller the boat the easier it will start to bounce or porposing. The 14" did this more than the larger ones. The larger the boat the less your will have. The problem with the dual engine boats is the aftermarkets trim systems won't work with the dual pumps ulness you give up the reverse the buckets it will hit them. My 18' Sportster rarely does it and stops on its own after a few bumps unless the water is just to choppy. The wedges will help but you loose speed since it points your jet pumps down more to force your nose down. The jet pumps for the ski's are the same at the boats. I repalced my fully plastic pumps with bronze PWC Pumps. Paid $60 a pump and they work great. NO a suck up a rock and not loose a vein.

Put the big guy in front to keep the noise down or put a cooler up front to help with the bouncing. Problem solved the hill billy way. More beer in the front makes it all good.
 
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