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98 speedster Oem wear ring condition?

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Hey guys,

i redid one pump on my 98 speedster, now doing other. Oem ring looks “ok” but has a bunch if spots where the impeller cut into the rubber(see pics). Ive got a brand new delrin wsm ring ready to go in, but debating whether i should keep the oem or just replace it with the delrin while it’s all out just to be on the safe side. What do you guys recommend here?:
 

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Also, and dang i already did one pump, but i just noticed the delrin ring sticks out maybe 1/16” more than oem.. is this normal and will this cause issues when bolting on the pump? I’m gonna use the neoprene seal instead of the right stuff gasket btw..
 

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I removed it anyway. I had the delrin one and i figured i might as well make it match the other side and be new without those nicks and scraps in the rubber. I am going to re-install everything asap but i had to order two new cones as the oil fill plugs’ plastic threads weren’t sealing even with pipe thread compound so i also put together a leak test contraption out of 1/8 to 1/4 brass fittings. Gonna seal it all up when the new cones arrive.
 
Thats probably what I would've done. If your already that far in to it, why not right. You have any more pics along the way? Im new to this. Just got a 97 Challenger and need to figure out how to change the pump oil soon before it starts freezing. Its coming early I can feel it.
 
Its pretty easy especially with the pumps off, but im eager to put the new cones on so i can do the leak test and confirm this thing holds the 10psi for 10 mins. I’ll take pics as i rebuild this thing.
 
Soo i installed the aftermarket titan cone cover for the pump.. loctited the gasket that came with it, loctited the three screws with blue threadlocker. Used the SBT pump that they sell to do the carb leak test, but it’s the same principle. Not sure why though, but when i screw the fitting in the drain hole and hook up the pressure tester, the needle barely moves. I know it’s not my tester or fitings because i’ve tested those independently and it can go past 10psi. All the seals, bearings, etc. For the pump are new.. anyone have any ideas here? Do i need to put teflon tape around the fitting where it goes into the drain hole?
 
29653C62-1E9F-4ECF-87F0-3ED6C13F59A9.jpegHere are some pics:
 

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when i have my finger over it, it holds 10psi pressure easily and doesnt drop. When i attach it to the cone, i cant get over around 2-3 psi.
 
Okay.. I looked under and saw a bit of oil, ever so slightly , underneath at the bottom of the cone where it meets the hub surface. Dang.. New aftermarket orings suck I guess? I just took it apart again and re-installed with an OEM oring, put alot more loctite, put it on, spun it 90 degrees, tightened pretty darn tight (not too tight), and am leaving it like this for a few hours before doing the leak test again. Before, where the oil was seeping, as I would press the pressure tester, with a spotlight I was able to just barely notice some air bubbles coming out the bottom. I guess my mistake was leak testing before the loctite was fully dry maybe? In any case, I'll give it 4-5 hours, maybe more.
 
Replace em both while it’s open … ask me how I know lol. Good luck
Yep both wear rings were changed, now just struggling with the pump lesk test due to the cones not sealing.. oem one drain plug threads were messed up and the plug always goes in crooked so i bought new aftermarket titan ones, i installed with a new oem oring and a ton of loctite and will do a leak test tomorrow once it’s all cured for sure. If it still leaks, then i dunno what to do lol.
 
Yep both wear rings were changed, now just struggling with the pump lesk test due to the cones not sealing.. oem one drain plug threads were messed up and the plug always goes in crooked so i bought new aftermarket titan ones, i installed with a new oem oring and a ton of loctite and will do a leak test tomorrow once it’s all cured for sure. If it still leaks, then i dunno what to do lol.
Right on ill be watchin for updates. What kind of pressure tester are you using?
So, just re-did the leak test (after letting loctite cure for roughly 8 hours) and got up to about 8psi but it still gradually went down. That’s an improvement! There still was a leak somewhere so I checked and lo and behold more air bubbles on bottom left now .. this time i smeared loctite on the hub surface, oring, all around the cone .. lol.. i overdid it and will let it sit and cure atleast till tomorrow morning which will be yet another test.
 
ughh this is getting frustrating.. I just did the leak test again and I got up to 10psi but it slowly goes down to zero after 10-15 seconds.. I am at a loss here?? Is there something other than loctite 518 that would work here? Maybe the OEM O-ring was a defect? Is the aftermarket cone perhaps not properly seating here??
 
could the issue be the adapter that goes into the drain plug hole is letting pressure out? I used pipe sealant this time and tightened all the way down into the cone (the aftermarket one has an internal stopped so you can't turn it all the way in like the OEM ones). I don't see any air bubbles this time so it's a mystery to me!
 
Anyway, turns out the aftermarket cone is a peice of crap, and it’s nearly impossible to put oil in there without it overflowing and spilling out. What a shitshow lol. The “stopper” inside the drain plug hole leaves barely any space to pour oil in. Ive already wasted a ton of oil and have barely gotten an oil in. Im going to order two more cones, but from WSM and try those instead. God help me lol.
 
Man. This sound like somthing I'd be going through if I was (or when I eventually do) this project one day. Somewhat calming to know Im not the only one with not so, comedic drama in my life. I feel your pain. Keep on with the updates.

I ordered some aftermarket O-rings online for when I change the oil in the pump and couldnt find anything online thats "OEM" so just got what I could get that matched the part #
 
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