I have a 98 gtx/rfi. The 12 volt low flashes when it starts up. Sometimes it goes out within seconds other times it stays on much longer. I have already gotten stranded out on the water. Replaced the battery and the rectifier still same problem. Ialso noticed it stalls at idle , then when I start it again I get 12 volt low until I give it gas.Don't know where to go next.
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98 gtx/rfi 12 volt low
- Thread starter mdhugg
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Magneto?
You say you've replaced the battery and rectifier. Did you use a voltmeter to check and see if your charging circuit was working.
If you have to, charge your battery, put it in the ski and test it with your meter to see how many volts it is storing, then start it up. If your fast enough, you won't even need to hook up the water. But if your in-experienced in doing this, you may want to.
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 13.5 to 14 VDC. This tells you your charging circuit is good.
If your not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the magneto. If your not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it.
Good luck!..........:cheers:
You say you've replaced the battery and rectifier. Did you use a voltmeter to check and see if your charging circuit was working.
If you have to, charge your battery, put it in the ski and test it with your meter to see how many volts it is storing, then start it up. If your fast enough, you won't even need to hook up the water. But if your in-experienced in doing this, you may want to.
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 13.5 to 14 VDC. This tells you your charging circuit is good.
If your not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the magneto. If your not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it.
Good luck!..........:cheers:
seadoolover
New Member
Charging issue...
It does sound like a charging issue... check your grounding wires and make sure your battery terminals are clean. Can you use a voltamter or multimeter to check to see if the battery is indeed charging or not then we'll know for sure.
It does sound like a charging issue... check your grounding wires and make sure your battery terminals are clean. Can you use a voltamter or multimeter to check to see if the battery is indeed charging or not then we'll know for sure.
Here is a simple test for you. Leave the DESS lanyard off the post...remove the positive wire from the battery. It it sparks there is a draw somewhere. Start checking the components till you find something drawing the power.
Karl
Karl
seadoolover
New Member
charging issues?
ok... i still feel you are not getting the correct charge to your battery... my thoughts are when you are revved up the charging issue is ok and no 12 volt low warning flashes... but when you are at idle or low rev you get the flashing again... and then the stall... i'll check the specs for the charging but i'm pretty sure it should be up around the 14.4 volt mark .. you have a new regulator .. and battery.... so what else is involved with the charging system? Your magneto... Do as Karl suggests and see if you can find any drainage source... after riding put your hand on the new regulator and see if it is warm... it may be HOT so be careful.. let us know how you went.
ok... i still feel you are not getting the correct charge to your battery... my thoughts are when you are revved up the charging issue is ok and no 12 volt low warning flashes... but when you are at idle or low rev you get the flashing again... and then the stall... i'll check the specs for the charging but i'm pretty sure it should be up around the 14.4 volt mark .. you have a new regulator .. and battery.... so what else is involved with the charging system? Your magneto... Do as Karl suggests and see if you can find any drainage source... after riding put your hand on the new regulator and see if it is warm... it may be HOT so be careful.. let us know how you went.
The boat sits on a pod at the marina so I haven't had time to try taking off the positive cable. How do I check to see if anything is draining battery. Also when I put the lanyard on the post it doesn't beep twice but you can hear two clicks and the boat always cranks. Now the other day when I put the lanyard on I got two chirps. Could this have anything to do with the battery draining?
It sounds like the beep beep button is bad. It is easy to replace. Just unscrew the outside ring, unplug the 2 wires inside the dash. go to Radio Shack and buy one for like $20.00. if you need to cut the plug end off the old beeper and solder and shrink the end on the new beeper. install and done.
Disconnect the neg cable from the battery. Take a 12 volt test lamp and connect it between the cable end and the battery post (Lanyard cap must be off DESS post). If the test lamp lites then you have a constant draw on the battery and this is not good. I would then start disconnecting componets, one at a time, to see if any of these are causing a draw on the battery. In your case I would start with the info gauge then go to the rectifier and then go to the VTS module,etc. Note: using a volt meter connected between the cable end and the battery post will not work. It must be a 12volt test LITE.
Lite on...draw. No lite on...no draw.
Keep us posted.
Karl
Disconnect the neg cable from the battery. Take a 12 volt test lamp and connect it between the cable end and the battery post (Lanyard cap must be off DESS post). If the test lamp lites then you have a constant draw on the battery and this is not good. I would then start disconnecting componets, one at a time, to see if any of these are causing a draw on the battery. In your case I would start with the info gauge then go to the rectifier and then go to the VTS module,etc. Note: using a volt meter connected between the cable end and the battery post will not work. It must be a 12volt test LITE.
Lite on...draw. No lite on...no draw.
Keep us posted.
Karl
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Sorry Im confused. If I replace the DESS post don't I need a new key? I thought the cap on the lanyard is programed to each particular post. As far as removing the positive cable. When I remove it ,do I touch the positive post to see if I get a spark? This should tell me if I have a draw?
Sorry if Im a pest but Im not comfortable going any long distances until I fix the problem.
Sorry if Im a pest but Im not comfortable going any long distances until I fix the problem.
The DESS post is not the beeper. You need to replace the beeper. the DESS post makes no noise. If you did replace the DESS post it isn't the programed part, the lanyard cap with the ROM chip in it is. The lanyard cap is programed to the mpem. DO NOT have the lanyard connected when you check for a draw. Disconnect the neg cable from the battery. Take a 12 volt test lamp and connect it between the cable end and the battery post (Lanyard cap must be off DESS post). If the test lamp lites then you have a constant draw on the battery and this is not good. I would then start disconnecting componets, one at a time, to see if any of these are causing a draw on the battery. In your case I would start with the info gauge then go to the rectifier and then go to the VTS module,etc. Note: using a volt meter connected between the cable end and the battery post will not work. It must be a 12volt test LITE.
Lite on...draw. No lite on...no draw.Make sure the ski is in a well ventilated area so as not to ignite anything.
If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.
Karl
Lite on...draw. No lite on...no draw.Make sure the ski is in a well ventilated area so as not to ignite anything.
If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.
Karl
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ok disconnected neg cable touched cable to test light and neg post, no light. This should mean no draw, right? Mutlimeter reads 12.4 at rest and 13.6 when running. I did notice that when pwc is on pod with a hose it doesn't stall. Once its in the water it stalls at idle unless you feather the throttle.Every time it stalls 12volt low comes on but starst up again. If it sits for about 3 weeks the light comes on and stays on or it won't start at all because of dead battery. When I was working on it I left the hose running and the engine filled with water and it wouldn't crank. I took the plugs out and noticed the engine filled with water . I cranked the engine to get all the water out but this killed the battery. Once I put the plugs back in it wouldn't crank at all. I had to take it out to charge. Will this hurt the boat at all? Is what I did the right thing? Reguardless I still get 12 volt low. HELP
You need to get the water out of the engine quickly...the longer it sets the longer it will start to rust and lead to seizure. Pul the plugs and turn it over with the sparkplugs caps pn the grounding posts. when the water is expelled out install new sparkplugs and get it started.
YES, you can hook up the hose to the seadoo and have them run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
I pre start my seadoo's too, dry before I leave for the launch too. Just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at launch. Peace of mind is worth lot.
Karl
YES, you can hook up the hose to the seadoo and have them run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
I pre start my seadoo's too, dry before I leave for the launch too. Just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at launch. Peace of mind is worth lot.
Karl
Thank Karl.
I let the hose run for about 20 minutes and it filled up.That was the problem.
OK got it started. fully charged the battery,cranked all the water out and after a little while it started. I let it run on the hose for about 5 minutes.(To cold to ride)
I tried touching pos cable to post - No spark.
I put a test light from neg post to neg cable- no light. I quess next start checking gauges for for a draw?
Do you think maybe corrosion in the conectors? Can I take them apart and spray with CRC 5-56? Check all fuses?
Obviously with the battery fully charged I get no 12 volt low. We will see what happens after sitting for a few days:
What about the stalling while in the water but not on the hose?
I let the hose run for about 20 minutes and it filled up.That was the problem.
OK got it started. fully charged the battery,cranked all the water out and after a little while it started. I let it run on the hose for about 5 minutes.(To cold to ride)
I tried touching pos cable to post - No spark.
I put a test light from neg post to neg cable- no light. I quess next start checking gauges for for a draw?
Do you think maybe corrosion in the conectors? Can I take them apart and spray with CRC 5-56? Check all fuses?
Obviously with the battery fully charged I get no 12 volt low. We will see what happens after sitting for a few days:
What about the stalling while in the water but not on the hose?
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You could use CRC 5-56. I prefer wd-40 as it displaces water or even a contact cleaner as it has alcohol in it to clean the contacts of corrosion. Check everything...it's drawing it from somewhere.
Karl
Karl
here is the latest. I had a friend who is a toyota mechanic. He said that the pwc is running on the battery only, thats why it keeps stalling at idle. He fiddled around with the multimeter and said that the stator is not getting any resistance. I assume this means that the battery is not recharging and infact is draining while thwe pwc is running. His next suggestion was to get some one who knows what they are doing with a pwc. Is the stator the same as the magneto? Remember I already changed the rectifier and the battery. This thing is driving me crazy!!!!
The stator assy works in conjection with the magneto. The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.
I hope this helps. You will need to check the charging coil in the stator assy.
Karl
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.
I hope this helps. You will need to check the charging coil in the stator assy.
Karl
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