98 gtx ltd top end

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Noahkelsey100

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Hey there I have a 98 gtx ltd and I going to do a top end rebuild but I was looking and wasn’t sure what the best kit/ brand would be ? Also I was seeing some stuff about checking the crank and I’m not sure how to pull all that apart, if there a way to check the crank while it’s still in the motor with the head off?
Any help is great. Thanks!
 
Okay thank you I thought so but I wasn’t sure. I think I’ve decided to go ahead and pull the whole motor out and take the crank out, is that the best way to go?
 
Okay sounds good thank you. Once I get to the crank what you recommend to do to “check” the crank and if stuff is bad what kits should I look for?
 
Well, with the head off,,, just rotate the pto flywheel,,,and see if it binds or not,,,, if the rods are okay,,,and the crank rotates easily and smoothly,,, no need to pull the crank,,, unless you know that it has a ton of hours on it.,, and want to have a new crank match the new top end.
 
Well, with the head off,,, just rotate the pto flywheel,,,and see if it binds or not,,,, if the rods are okay,,,and the crank rotates easily and smoothly,,, no need to pull the crank,,, unless you know that it has a ton of hours on it.,, and want to have a new crank match the new top end.
Is it really necessary do you think for him to pull the motor out to take the cylinders off to rotate the crank? Seems like a lot of extra work if the crank is ok, engine would need to be aligned if the motors pulled?
 
Well, with the head off,,, just rotate the pto flywheel,,,and see if it binds or not,,,, if the rods are okay,,,and the crank rotates easily and smoothly,,, no need to pull the crank,,, unless you know that it has a ton of hours on it.,, and want to have a new crank match the new top end.
Okay thank you I will try that, i do know it’s got 216 hrs on it.
 
Have you guys ever read that in the 951’s it’s a bad idea to only do a top end on them??
That’s what I had read a few times so I just don’t know what to do, I hate to spend the time and money on the crank and it be okay but also put the time and money into a top end and then it blow up. I like the test popps said, if that test checks out I’ll just do a top end?
 
Okay thank you I will try that, i do know it’s got 216 hrs on it.
What condition is it in? Is it currently running? What was the compression in it? Unlike all the other 2 strokes were 150 is perfect compression I think 130 is near perfect on the 951’s isn’t it?
 
So yes I bought the ski “not running” went through crabs and fuel pump got it running played with it a few time and it just wasn’t at top proformance so I checked the compression and mag piston had 110 and pto was 30psi so decided to put it up and look into a top end, then I read about the cranks. It started first try almost everytime and would run but about a month into getting it running it was cutting out pretty bad and that’s when I checked compression and parked it. The ski it’s self is in very good shape.
 
That’s what I had read a few times so I just don’t know what to do, I hate to spend the time and money on the crank and it be okay but also put the time and money into a top end and then it blow up. I like the test popps said, if that test checks out I’ll just do a top end?
It’s hard to say, with that many hours it is a bit of a gamble from what I’ve read, if it were any other engine I would definitely be more apt to just do a top end but after reading so many times to do the bottom as well on these it is a gamble. What’s a top end going to cost? Maybe 700.00 with machining, rings, pistons, gaskets, I guess it’s a personal decision depending on what you have in it, what your plans are for the machine in the future. Not really sure how much a rebuilt crank is but probably in the 800.00 range I would think?
 
So yes I bought the ski “not running” went through crabs and fuel pump got it running played with it a few time and it just wasn’t at top proformance so I checked the compression and mag piston had 110 and pto was 30psi so decided to put it up and look into a top end, then I read about the cranks. It started first try almost everytime and would run but about a month into getting it running it was cutting out pretty bad and that’s when I checked compression and parked it. The ski it’s self is in very good shape.
With those compression numbers your going to need to figure out what happened to cause that pto cylinder to go to 30 pounds or it will happen again right away with your rebuilt motor, probably be a good idea to pull the motor and do a leak down test to check the outer crank seals for leaks.
 
for a leak down test you are pressurizing the crankcase with 6 pounds of air to see if the crankcase seals are leaking. You want to know this because if one of them is leaking it will suck air into the crankcase causing a lean condition. You can also do a leak down test on the rotary valve cavity as well to see if the inner crank seals are leaking. These ones aren’t as important because they won’t cause a lean condition but you still might want to know to help you make a decision on new crank or not. I’ve only ever tested 717 motor, for it all I needed was an old tire inner tube which I sandwiched between the carbs and intake and also sandwiches between tuned pipe and exhaust manifold. You jus to need a t fitting, schrader valve for one end of t, barbed fitting for other end of t so you can attach a line to the pulse fitting and then a gauge for in top of t, you can add the air with a bicycle tire pump. You don’t want to over pressurize
 
Okay Thank you so much, so the problem is fixable with the crank seals?
The inner ones can’t be changed, you would need to get a remanufactured crank if they were bad mind you again they are not as important, a lot of people run t machines with no problems even with the inner ones leaking. The outer ones I’m not sure about, I get mixed up with the snowmobiles and different Seadoo engines, I’m not 100 percent sure if the seals are integrated as one with outer bearing and need to pressed on and off or if the seal is seperate, I think they are seperate from the bearing but think the crankcase needs to be split to change them. You would want to verify with someone else or your shop manual to be sure on that.
 
The inner ones can’t be changed, you would need to get a remanufactured crank if they were bad mind you again they are not as important, a lot of people run t machines with no problems even with the inner ones leaking. The outer ones I’m not sure about, I get mixed up with the snowmobiles and different Seadoo engines, I’m not 100 percent sure if the seals are integrated as one with outer bearing and need to pressed on and off or if the seal is seperate, I think they are seperate from the bearing but think the crankcase needs to be split to change them. You would want to verify with someone else or your shop manual to be sure on that.
Yes, now that I’m thinking about it, I’m pretty sure those outer seals can be changed, at least on the 717 so hopefully the 951 is the same. But again the crankcase would need to be split to do so. With any luck, they are not leaking, perhaps that 30 pounds is due to a broken ring or a leak at the carb base gasket or maybe a carb issue but you would probably want to verify all this.
 
the inner seals are replaceable, but the crank needs to be split for that,,,the outer seals are easily replaceable.
 
200 hours is a lot on a 951 crank, especially one that the top end let go.
We are only suggesting that you do the crank because in 30 years working on these and on the forum I can't tell you how many high hour 951 cranks have let go with just a new top end. It is a lot.
Not trying to waste your money but if the crank lets go it will take everything with it including your new top end.
 
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