98' GTX Limited full throttle only goes 30mph

[NORML Joe]

I just bought it off a guy and it just had its driveshaft replaced. Took it out last week, and it ran great, towards the end of the day it started bogging down, rpms were jumping around alot. Took it out today, ran fine at first, then after about 20 minutes it kept dying while idling, and the rpm's during idle were alot lower than before, and when I would give it gas, it would slowly accelerate up to 30 mph but would not go any further even with full throttle. I'm new to jetski's and could really use some advice. Thank's

 

[timmyboy76]

start with the fuel delivery, man...carbs, selector valve, fuel lines..etc.

 

[NORML Joe]

I did a look over of the engine, gonna change the spark plugs, I noticed alot of oil leaked from the valve cover on one of the cylinders.

 

[custompartsguy]

I did a look over of the engine, gonna change the spark plugs, I noticed alot of oil leaked from the valve cover on one of the cylinders.

should not have any oil come from the valve cover, the valve cover is actually your head. see if you have oil coming out of a weep hole on the bottom of one of your rave valves?

 

[NORML Joe]

I dont know where the weep hole is, but the oil is definitely coming from the valve housing, not the valve cover, sorry about that, this is all new to me.

 

[custompartsguy]

I think that a sticky or non working rave could cause the engine to do your problem possibly I would get someone to verify this, however the weep hole is very easy to see once you find it, right where the rave valves meet the head follow to the center of the mount and you will find a small hole in the middle bottom of the valve, if you do a search of the forum you will find how to take them apart and clean them, do not adjust the red cap to take them apart just pull the metal clip on the top of it to the side, be carefull as when you lift the black cap off there is a spring directly under it, then unscrew the green bellow with a socket and remove it be carefull of the spring there as well, then you will most likely see alot of oil inside of the one leaking. To me if it where not working correctly and was stuck somewhat or all the way closed and would not open at all or only moved a little it would cause an exhaust restriction which could cause problems, so lets start with checking them first and see if fixing them fixes your problem. Make sure your pulse line is hooked up to them and the solonoid and to the block. Just make sure you remember how everything comes apart and put it back the exact same way as it came out. Make sure the valve goes back in the same way into the port as well.

 

[NORML Joe]

Okay so I pulled off the valve cover and found like you said, alot of oil, the valve cover seal was torn, I also removed the seal and unscrewed the black cap to expose a threaded shank with a spring, bushing, and gasket on it, I am able to move the shank up and down with hardly any effort. Does that mean that the valve is working?

 

[custompartsguy]

Okay so I pulled off the valve cover and found like you said, alot of oil, the valve cover seal was torn, I also removed the seal and unscrewed the black cap to expose a threaded shank with a spring, bushing, and gasket on it, I am able to move the shank up and down with hardly any effort. Does that mean that the valve is working?

lol...I understand what you are saying but am going to correct you so that you can order the proper parts you need....when you refer to the valve cover, it is the R.A.V.E. valve, go ahead and order 2 rave valve bellow kits to rebuild them, do one at a time so you can look at the other for referance to put back together if need be. When you pull each rave it will be very important to remember which side is facing the pistons. Now for the one you have apart lets start there, remove that bushing,seal and spring from the shaft, then remove the 2 allen head screws from the base of the rave valve and you will have to pull one allen from the 2nd rave as it is holding your grounding posts for the plug wires, so pull those three allen bolts and then you can pull the rave valve mounting base, you then can pull out the valve and remember which side is facing the piston, and clean all the oil/grease off of it, get the new rebuild kits and put them back together the way they came apart. It is not hard to do, and once you do these it will be a breeze for you as it is recommended to clean them once per year to get the build up off of them.

 

[custompartsguy]

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=59&B=5

 

[NORML Joe]

Thanks for the tips, I'll be including some pictures as soon as I start in on it!

 

[NORML Joe]

Here's some pic's of whats going on

 

[custompartsguy]

from the nuts and bolts on the head it looks like it has been off before, what did you have done? I actually ended up deciding to have my cylinders cleaned because of all the build up in mine. But after I took mine apart I had no choice but to do a top end.

After you get the valves rebuilt then do a compression test even though there may not be a problem, it never hurts and will tell you alot.

 

[NORML Joe]

Where can I get the stuff to do a compression test, Autozone? Also what do you use to get the solid crap off the valve, can I scrap it off? I just bought the ski off a guy, so I dont really know what has been done, he told me he had just had the driveshaft replaced. What goes into rebuilding the top end?

 

[NORML Joe]

I replaced both bellow's on the rave valves and changed out the spark plugs and started it, and it sounds so much better than yesterday. Gonna take it on the water to see how it does. Thanks for all the advice custompartsguy!

 

[custompartsguy]

no problem, sorry I wasnt home to help....still get a compression test just to let you know what kind of shape the top end is in, autozone should rent you one for free.