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97 XP won't start (does turn over)

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seadoobeckman

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I was riding it last year and it gave me a lot of trouble... starting but going out. Finally, it wouldn't start at all. I let it sit over the winter and now I am trying to get to work again. I put new plugs and strong battery. The starter will turn over but it will not fire up. I put gas in the plug holes and it still doesn't start up. I put a volt meter on the spark plug caps and they apear to be putting out voltage. Anyone have any ideas? If it was a bad MPEM... would it even turn over? I haven't done a compression test yet... but will let you know the results. Thanks.
 
Have you tried putting a spark plug in the plug wire and holding the rubber wire cap and holding the metal part of the plug on a bolt on the motor and turn the motor over to see if you have spark? Also check the wire connectors to make sure the are clean?Also ceck the fuses in the computer box located at the very front of the ski?
 
pull the white wire at coil, and with 12v tester, check to see if it lights up, while crank'n it. If theres light, then clip the plug wires 1/4in.
 
pull the white wire at coil, and with 12v tester, check to see if it lights up, while crank'n it. If theres light, then clip the plug wires 1/4in.


I will try your suggestion tomorrow... thank you. I did a compression check and I believe it is good 150/155. I checked all fuses and they were good. I did pull the spark plugs to see if the spark would jump and it does, but it seems very faint and hard to see... I could only see when it was dark outside.
 
I will try your suggestion tomorrow... thank you. I did a compression check and I believe it is good 150/155. I checked all fuses and they were good. I did pull the spark plugs to see if the spark would jump and it does, but it seems very faint and hard to see... I could only see when it was dark outside.

Compression great. Best way to tell spark, is in shady/afternoon. If spark white/blue, the nyou have great spark, if red/orange, then thats weak. Cut the plug wires back 1/4in, then try, and/or same time, clean the connections at the coil, and grounds cables...:cheers:
 
Have you ohmed the coil to see what it is?i have the same ski and it turned out to be the coil.
 
Have you ohmed the coil to see what it is?i have the same ski and it turned out to be the coil.

Well, can you explain what parts I would hold the ohm meter to to check... sorry... but I am a volt meter idiot. Thanks.

Also, someone suggested I cut the plug wires back by a 1/4"... but how do you get the plug rubber off without ruining it?

Thanks.
 
All you have to do to remove the plug wire cap is pull on it the wire is not crimped on.

Thank you...

I cut the plug wire and reset them back in. This may not be the right thing to do, but at first I could stick the red probe of the volt meter in the plug and turn it over and get readings (jumps all over the place). But suddently now I get nothing. I also pulled the white wire of the coil and it looks like it climbs to 25 when the meter is set at 200. Then when I stop pushing the starter button it slowly returns to 0. Does that sound right?
 
I check with a 12v light tester, but since you got read'n, then it sounds though, you have "power" to the end of white wire. With that, and no spark, then I say its the coil, bad...
 
I would get the exact specs for it make sure you have the exact voltage to the coil, then check your primary and secondary resistance if avail. Or just slap a coil in it and hope it does the trick
 
So close yet.. so far.

OK... To sum it up... seadoo will turn over but won't start. Compression test is good (150/155). I get a spark... I even pulled the coil out and put it in my other seadoo (same engine)... ran fine. I cut 1/4 off of plug wires. I can empty the fuel filter and it fills right back up. All fuses are fine. I put gas directly into the plug holes and nothing.

What else am I missing? Thanks for any help.
 
turn your fuel off and or pinch the hose, pull your spark plugs and attach your wires to ground post and crank it see if gass comes squirting out of the cylinders, you will need to do this anyways to dry the cylinders out if it is flooding otherwise you will chance a hydrolock.
 
The Effort Continues

After doing all that was mentioned in this thread and not having success... I put in a new set of plugs and the seadoo started up. (I didn't do this originally because the old plugs (not that old) worked find in my other seadoo. After firing up it took some time to flush out a ton of oil, I am assuming from the days of trying to get it to start.

I took it out and it ran fine for about 20 mins on the water... then the behavior that started all this trouble began again. The seadoo would die and be a little difficult to start, but would start up at first... eventually it would only start and keep going if I played with the throttle making sure not to give it too much throttle too quickly. Sometimes I would be able to easy the throttle up slowly and get to full throttle. But eventually it would get to a point and not start. After putting it on the trailer a couple of days, it will do this again... start right up, run for few minutes... then run if I am careful with the throttle and eventually not start at all.

Any ideas? (at least if fires up this time).
 
If you haven't already done it...... change out the original gray fuel lines, and clean out your fuel selector valve. Mine pretty much had the same problem you have and after changing the lines, cleaning the selector and changing the carb filters it starts everytime and has no flat spots. On a gps mine will run 54.6 mph on light choppy water.
 
Hmm... thanks for your information... but can I bug you to try and describe where the fuel selector value and carb filters would be located? I apologize in advance for not knowing much about this... I am suprised I have made it this far. Thanks for your help.



If you haven't already done it...... change out the original gray fuel lines, and clean out your fuel selector valve. Mine pretty much had the same problem you have and after changing the lines, cleaning the selector and changing the carb filters it starts everytime and has no flat spots. On a gps mine will run 54.6 mph on light choppy water.
 
If you go to Rivamotorsports.com and use their original parts michofiche, the carb filter is #22 in the carb breakdown. hey have a super fine filte mesh and can clog easily. If you haven't used it before Seafoam is a good fuel additive and will help keep microbilogical growth down besides cleaning the fuel system. The carb filters are located bindthe end plate with the four screws and a fuel block. be careful not to tear any gaskets. The fuel selectoe valve is your on/off/reserve selector. Take out the phillips screw holding the knob on and you will find a plastic nut that holds the valve to the hull. It will then pull loose from the INSIDE of the hull. When you change your lines do it one at a time to save yourself some headaches later. Attached photo id of a partially cleaned filter. When I pulled it out is was BLACK. Needless to say I spent the monet for 2 new ones. Good luck
 

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Additional Question

I am slowly working my way in through cleaning the filters, looking at the selector valve and changing lines... However, has anyone had an issue with the seadoo starting up but within 10 seconds slowly dying and won't restart till I wait a few minutes... only to do it again. Sounds like something is slowly leaking fuel into the right areas, then when I start it.. burns all fuel up till it runs out and the process starts all over.
 
Any more ideas

I took out the carb fuel filters and they didn't really look that dirty, but cleaned up and put back in. I am still trying to get at the fuel selector value... assuming the only why to access it would be from the top below the seat. The Seadoo starts right up, but then dies after about 10 seconds, it won't restart till I wait 3-5 minutes and try again. Any ideas.
 
Did you make sure the fuel/water separator was sealed? I had one missing the o ring and it was sucking air into the fuel system.
 
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