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97 XP variable trim system problems

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callmike2

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This is more of a story than a question. I hope it helps some of you. Yesterday we took out the 97 XP. It was its first outing for the year. This is a pristeen XP with extremely low hours. Generally, she ran about 67 mph with my nearly 200 lb. son operating it. Of course the goal was to peak at 70. So all manner of tweaking the trim was experimented with. After about an hour of good running, the trim was tilted up and refused to lower. By the end of the second hour, the trim wouldn't cooperate in any direction, just a little relay click from somewhere in the back. Panic set in. The VTS is pretty expensive at most parts places.

SeaDoo Forum and PWCToday were the first choice of help. We've tried dealers before and it seems that it always takes more time, more money and generally more frustration when you're already frustrated about the problem you're having.

Long story short... pop the cover off the VTS motor in the rear compartment. You guessed it... full of water. Where did it come from? There wasn't any water in the rear compartment. Answer: it comes through the little rubber boot or bellows that fastens to the vts shaft and the opening where it protrudes through the rear if the ski. A quick check revealed dime-sized gaping holes in the rubber. (Not replacing the rubber boot promptly will ruin your machine.) An overnight drying in a warm space seemed to dry out the water in the motor area of the vts, but still just a mild click when the trim buttons were pressed... what to do? DON'T START TEARING STUFF APART YET! Now, look inside the nose of the front compartment. See the little rectangular black box on the left of the nose? Squeeze the clips and pull toward you. That's the fuse box. Count to the 4th fuse from the top, it's labeled 7.5. Pull it out and check it. Mine was blown. Replaced with a new one and amazingly the vts came back to life. Now, that only works if your vts system is in good shape. If the motor has suffered with water too long, the windings in the motor could be penetrated with water, short out, and its new motor time. If water has been in the area of the VTS for too long, it can actually seep into the little, sealed, black controller box and ruin it. The trick is to keep the water out of the VTS system. The little rubber boot is part number 271000459 in case you need one. Do yourself a favor and look at this website http://www.osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=4&products_id=13 It will explain a lot about the protector hose.

P.S. In our search, I found outboard after market controllers and aftermarket replacement motors. I like to check all the angles. This forum has a lot of people that can help you also.
 
VTS problems aside,
I hate to break it to you but unless you provide a laundry list of mods......
you were running about 47, and shooting for low 50's
that ski won't touch 70 running downhill on a trailer without about some very serious modifications.

back to the vts... you have 5 options assuming its not as simple as a boot replacement..

replace entire vts unit $140ish thru most sellers
replace vts module *assuming motor is good* about 80 (no clue)
trim fix 120
home made trim fix (using relays from radio shack) 20
manual trim 50

play with that trim make it perfect, spot on, dead center perfect, whatever.. , but even then w/o major performance modifications your still shooting to hit the low 50's, your not touching 70.

all the angles pretty much have been looked at over the last decade, since these vts systems started breaking down for the pwc community around 2001 to now... there are several ways to fix the module with parts found locally, the motor itself is an easy replace, and complete, functional used modules are generally $150 shipped, all the rocket science of the VTS has been explored.
 
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Well, just reporting what the speedo was reading. Perhaps you have a more scientific way of judging. The mechanical parts of the vts look like new, clean parts. After I replace the boot, I'll seal the motor cover and, like many have suggested, go to the front of the boat and apply sealant to the mpem unit. While at it, I'm thinking about replacing all the weatherstripping around the compartment covers. Yes, I've discovered that the vts is repairable, replaceable and a nice thing to have.
 
Someone had brought up an amazing point on another forum or thread that I verified to be correct... The motor is an identical swap to a 84-89 nissan 300zx power window motor or a 95-98ish 240sx... for the 97 XP. Haven't gone yet but 20-25 at the junkyard. I figured it was a good place to start as mine just clicks also and I verified that the motor was shot. Not trying to steal anyones advice but figured i'd put that useful info on here since no one chimed about that yet.
 
LouDoo, we're in Shelbyville. We usually run in the little Guist Creek Lake just outside Shelbyville. It' very peaceful and only crowded on Sat and Sun afternoons or for a bass tournament.

mike
 
VTS problems aside,
I hate to break it to you but unless you provide a laundry list of mods......
you were running about 47, and shooting for low 50's
that ski won't touch 70 running downhill on a trailer without about some very serious modifications.

back to the vts... you have 5 options assuming its not as simple as a boot replacement..

replace entire vts unit $140ish thru most sellers
replace vts module *assuming motor is good* about 80 (no clue)
trim fix 120
home made trim fix (using relays from radio shack) 20
manual trim 50

play with that trim make it perfect, spot on, dead center perfect, whatever.. , but even then w/o major performance modifications your still shooting to hit the low 50's, your not touching 70.

all the angles pretty much have been looked at over the last decade, since these vts systems started breaking down for the pwc community around 2001 to now... there are several ways to fix the module with parts found locally, the motor itself is an easy replace, and complete, functional used modules are generally $150 shipped, all the rocket science of the VTS has been explored.

I told my son what you said about going 67 and he told me that I heard him wrong... 57. So, I was a little off. Anyway, it runs good and leaves the 96 xp and the 96 hx behind.
 
Someone had brought up an amazing point on another forum or thread that I verified to be correct... The motor is an identical swap to a 84-89 nissan 300zx power window motor or a 95-98ish 240sx... for the 97 XP. Haven't gone yet but 20-25 at the junkyard. I figured it was a good place to start as mine just clicks also and I verified that the motor was shot. Not trying to steal anyones advice but figured i'd put that useful info on here since no one chimed about that yet.

bubba,
I'm glad you jumped in. That's the reason I started the thread. That was the first comment out of my son's mouth when we opened the motor cover. He said it's a power window motor. There are several on ebay. Motor replacements are a fraction of the vts part from seadoo. It seems like many people have had problems with the variable trim and have come up with all sorts of fixes. Ingenuity is a great thing. It's what made this country a world leader for so many years.
 
That's good information to know. Do you happen to know if it's the right or left side?

Lou
 
Hi Mike,

My son and I usually go riding on Fridays, bet he's a little older than your son, we usually go to Herrington because it's close, maybe we could meet up some time at one to the two lakes.

Lou
 
90's power window motors on fords are the same also...@lou,,they r the same left or right side,,
 
Donkey, that makes sense. The power window motor pulls or pushes a cable which raises or lowers the lower window connector frame. Left or right shouldn't make a difference for just the motor. The left or right difference would be for the window controller frame and how it bolts to the inside of the car door. Thanks, Donkey!
 
i had forgotten that I read about the motor being available a long time ago... my experience was that the motors are generally not the real problem, since they were an easy and cheap replacement, the modules were always the big PITA.

But either way thats good info.

and yes.. 57 on the dream-o-meter is certainly closer to accurate than 67, the only "scientific" way to test is with a gps or radar, showing average and top speed, the dream-o-meter is not scientific adn gives you nothing more than a good ball park idea of how fast your going.
 
I read somewhere that said to use a motor from a 90 300zx and it needed to be the passenger side. I think it was on pwctoday and the guy's screen name was Bill something, not sure if it is the same Bill on here or not? But I looked on ebay and it looks identical.
 
Woooo, thanks for the heads up. I checked out my boot this evening and it's looking pretty rough. You probably just saved my trim motor.
 
I was having a heck of time trying to figure out what parts I needed to replace the VTS boot.

Here is what you need to make your own kit:
Sea-Doo Part: 27100459 -Should be around $10 out the door from the local dealer
1 -3/4 single bond nylon hose clamp for the big end
1 -15/32 single bond nylon hose clamp for the small end

The clamps are called "single bond nylon hose clamps" and can most easily be found on ebay, aquarium supply house, or automotive fastner/clips place.

auveco, grainger, fastenall, usually carry these in stock
 
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