97 XP electrical issues ......I think

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Wolf1071

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Hey guys, new poster and jet ski owner here. I have been around them since i was 13 just never owned one. Rode my friends instead. BUt now i have finally gotten my own.

OK the story is i just picked the ski up a few days ago. I knew it was a bit of a project when i bought it. So I took it out yesterday to see if i could get it running after it had been sitting since last summer. Easier said than done. It would start every once in a while but wouldn't stay running very long. ended up killing the battery a few times trying it. I was figuring this would happen because i know how 2 strokes and carbs are when sitting for a while. I eventually got the carbs all cleaned out this morning when the electrical problems came around.

When i was out on the water I could tell the key was being finiky. It wouldnt always recognize it and some times i woud get the one long beep others i would get the double....but i was able to work around it. The times it was running sometimes it would cut off like i pulled the key when i really did not. It also shut down when i pressed the VTS button once when i was doing full throttle. I went out this morning to work on it some more and i got it running and it actually sounded good.....like i said i think i got the carbs all cleaned out with fuel treatment and such. I decided i should get it to a hose so i cvould run it longer than a couple min. I took it across my apartment complex to where the hose is and when i got there i could only get it to try and turn over like once.....the rest of the time it acted like there was no key plugged in at all. I checked the ground and some of the connections and cleaned them and made sure they were all good and still nothing. I did some reading and i disconnected the VTS fuse and checked the 5 amp MPEM fuse and it was fine. I did the self diagnostic mode and when i got to the part where i needed to listen for the beeps i got nothing.

I am thinking somewhere there is some bad wiring to the key post. WHat do you guys think.

Thanks
 
So you have been around them!

It appears you know what your looking for. The problem your describing is similar to the one I had in my boat last year. I could be idling along, it would just go dead.......I could be WOT, it would just go dead. I could run it in the yard, it would be doing great, then just go dead. No beeps, or succesions of different beeps.........
So, I figure, lanyard or post. The post was the easiest to work with, since I wouldn't have to drive the hour or so to get to my local Sea-Doo repair shop to program the key.
Long story short, I ordered a new post and that problem has gone away!....no more shut downs........
But before you go running out for the post. I'd clean your lanyard cap in some hot soapy water, to make sure it isn't dirty. Your not suppose to use any electrical contact type cleaner in it. The post has a magnet in it that is used to complete the electrical field for the ROM chip so that the DESS can recognize your lanyard.........so there you go.
Let us know what you find out........:cheers:
 
but where?

The key is pretty clean I have scraped it with a knife to scratch up the metal to make sure the contacts were clean. But I will soak it in some soapy water just to be completely sure. Where would I order a new post from if I needed one. And how do you remove them....can you just pull them out from the handle bars? or do you need a tool to get it out.
 
XP....

Wolfe...you can look in your manual for the procedure, since I own a boat, I'm not completly sure how yours is installed. If you have a problem with the removal and installation process, after looking through the manual, give me a shout, I'll help you out.
Your post will have a plug, you just un-snap the plug and remove it, then put the new one in. Shouldn't be hard. But before I do that, I'd do an ohm test on it to make sure it's bad. That procedure is in the manual too. Let me know if you need help with that procedure. There are only 4 steps to do. You'll check your wires, ground and the ring and top of the post.
You will need a multi meter for the test. If your not familar with it, see if you have an electrician friend who can give you a hand.
Let me know and I'll steer you in the right direction. I may look it up in a minute, after I go over these other post and put the manual page number in here as an edit, or additional information post..........:cheers:

Here's a used one for sale, $32...pretty good deal. The link https://www.watercraftpartsonline.c...100&Product_Code=278000977&Category_Code=sel1
I looked where I buy my stuff and they didnt' have any. A new one will cost anywhere from 60 to 80 bucks......
 
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thanks for the direction

Page numbers for those procedures would be awesome.

I think I am gonna go get a mulit meter tomm after school. I should be able to use it I used to be an engineering major so I have some knowledge of circuits and wiring. How much am i looking at if i need a new post?
 
Page numbers.....

O.K........not a problem. Just for you. The chapter and pages for the test on your post, along with a couple other test .........
In the Shop manual, ..........07-04-3.....
How's that?..........
 
this is awesome

Thanks for the fast and knowledgeable response. Definitely worth being a premium member on here. I think I am going to call it a night and do those tests tomm. I will repost then to let you know how it went. I almost hope its bad just so I have an answer. Damn electrical demons!
 
A clue?

OK so I went and bought the multi-meter today after school and did the test that the manual suggested. From what the manual says I think the post is bad but I figured I would have someone double check my logic. Here are the results:

No Lanyard Attached


Black & black/yellow: Getting 12 volts from the battery and have 5 ohms resistance

White & Switch Terminal: 0 ohms

Black and Ring on Post: 0 ohms

With Key On


Black & Black/yellow: About 2.1 ohms


It says in the manual that when the key is on those two wires should be very close to zero ohms. Do you think it is safe to say that the post is bad because it shows 2 ohms?

Thanks
 
WooHoo!

got a new post in the mail today and installed it......total b*tch by the way.....anyway sucker fired right up and ran ......I think I still need to run some gas through it because it was still sounding a tad rough but thats what tomm is for. Thanks for the help.
 
Test...

I see you replaced the post before I could get back to you on your results....but yes, the results show your post was bad. You can PM me anytime you like if you need help. My private messages in the forum also go to my home email account. So, when I am not always able to get right into the forum, lots of time, I check my mail. Feel free to PM if needed.
Glad you got that baby running and glad to have been able to help out. Thanks for becoming a member and supporting the forum. Without ya'll, we wouldn't exist.
BTW......your money goes directly back into the website in upgrades and expansion. No staff member technically gets paid. This is our hobby. Helping others so that we can keep you from spending $4000 dollars in a shope on a .29 cent repair..............Thanks again!.....:cheers:
 
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