97 XP - 787 Rebuild Please help

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g_campbell

g_campbell

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Hello,

I recently picked up a 1997 XP that needs to be rebuilt really cheap with trailer. So i started tearing into this thing knowing that it needed a top end and really hoping the bottom end would be in good shape. But the previous owner had tore most of it down and saw that it needed a top end and decided to get rid of it. But I had experience rebuilding cars and like I said bought it really cheap so why not? I always wanted one. Well I tore the top end off and wouldn't you know it... the roller bearings dropped into the bottom end!! But the bottom end looks great, no play!! There was one small spot of surface rust that I could get off easy. Is there a trick to getting the metal out of the bottom without cracking the case open? Sorry such a newbie here.

Any help is appreciated!!!

I understand the right way to do it would be to rebuild the bottom end or buy a rebuilt one of SBT, but the bottom end seems great and the cylinder walls didn't even get scored. Also, like I said he basically tore it apart for me as well. I figured all I have to lose is a top end if it fails.

Thanks guy really seems like there's lots of knowledge guys on this forum.
 
Spimothy Leary said:
open the crankcase. Its only a few bolts and a gasket, then you can inspect the crank thoroughly.
Click to expand...

Okay if I do open the crankcase to just inspect and remove metal? Will that require the flywheel puller to remove the flywheel? Will it also require crankshaft seals? What all is involved? Also, will I have to re-time the bottom end?
 
To do it correct you will need a flywheel puller and a chain wrench for the rear PTO.
Buy a tube of 1211 sealant and a complete gasket kit with seals.
 
mikidymac said:
To do it correct you will need a flywheel puller and a chain wrench for the rear PTO.
Buy a tube of 1211 sealant and a complete gasket kit with seals.
Click to expand...

Could it be done without removing the flywheel? And what are you referring to with the PTO?
 
So, the metal in the bottom end......is that just the needle roller? If so just use a shop vac and use a piece of 5/16" tubing and tape that to the big shop vac hose. Basically you just getting down to a tube small enough to fit in the crank. I forget exactly how many are in there but I can count a new one tonight so you can count to make sure you got then all. I would not put diesel in there.
 
It cant be done without removing the flywheel on the front. The PTO is the flywheel on the back that the driveshaft connects to. These have to be removed so you can install new front and rear crank seals. Also on the 787 you cant remove the front cover plate to split the cases without removing the flywheel.

If you really don't want to do the bottom end just make sure you have all the rollers accounted for like Racer said.
 
racerxxx said:
So, the metal in the bottom end......is that just the needle roller? If so just use a shop vac and use a piece of 5/16" tubing and tape that to the big shop vac hose. Basically you just getting down to a tube small enough to fit in the crank. I forget exactly how many are in there but I can count a new one tonight so you can count to make sure you got then all. I would not put diesel in there.
Click to expand...

What if there is small metal shavings from top end deterioration as well? I don't see any. Just worried about unforseen metal.
 
That bad I'd split the cases, better safe than sorry. More than likely it blew thru the exhaust but you never know. I melted a home thru a piston in a snowmobile and the bottom end was spotless, but I still split it.
 
racerxxx said:
That bad I'd split the cases, better safe than sorry. More than likely it blew thru the exhaust but you never know. I melted a home thru a piston in a snowmobile and the bottom end was spotless, but I still split it.
Click to expand...

Okay, if that's what i gotta do.. What's involved? What should a replace? What should i check? The bottom end looks really good IMO.
 
Gotta pull the flywheel, you need a puller specific, you just can't use an automotive puller. I'll post a link after dinner. You also need a pto/impeller removal tool. What sucks its that should have been done before you pulled the cylinders. From there it's just basic tools. I'd replace the crank seals on the mag housing and pto. Wipe the cases spotless on the outside before you open them up.
 
racerxxx said:
Gotta pull the flywheel, you need a puller specific, you just can't use an automotive puller. I'll post a link after dinner. You also need a pto/impeller removal tool. What sucks its that should have been done before you pulled the cylinders. From there it's just basic tools. I'd replace the crank seals on the mag housing and pto. Wipe the cases spotless on the outside before you open them up.
Click to expand...

I imagine I need these:

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sea-doo-crankshaft-end-seal-kit-787-800-rfi-xp800.html - CrankShaft Seals

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sea-doo-flywheel-puller-xp-gtx-spx-challenger-lrv.html - Flywheel Puller

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sbt-thread-lock-gasket-sealant-hi-tack-242-loctite.html - To seal the crankcase back up

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sea-doo-kawasaki-impeller-tool-2-stroke-1987-2007.html - Do I use this to remove the PTO?

Also will I have to re-do the timing?

I notice there is an engine alignment tool as well? It seems pretty align I noticed the shims on the mounts, but that appears to be all there is to it. Do you recommend that i get this tool as well?

I really appreciate the help!
 
I don't care for the SBT gaskets and seals. You can get the complete WSM gasket and seal set set on Amazon for $65.
That is the correct flywheel puller.
I would use ThreeBond 1211 sealant. $20 on Amazon.

That PTO tool will not work on your XP. You will have to use a chain wrench and heat. You will also have to put the rear cylinder back together so that you can put rope down the plug hole to stop it from turning.

You don't have to do anything with the timing.

You will have to align the engine with the special tool.
 
mikidymac said:
I don't care for the SBT gaskets and seals. You can get the complete WSM gasket and seal set set on Amazon for $65.
That is the correct flywheel puller.
I would use ThreeBond 1211 sealant. $20 on Amazon.

That PTO tool will not work on your XP. You will have to use a chain wrench and heat. You will also have to put the rear cylinder back together so that you can put rope down the plug hole to stop it from turning.

You don't have to do anything with the timing.

You will have to align the engine with the special tool.
Click to expand...

How do i get to the PTO? I don't see a bolt or anything? What is the purpose of the engine alignment tool? and okay I guess I'll have to put the top end back together...that's annoying lol
 
mikidymac said:
I don't care for the SBT gaskets and seals. You can get the complete WSM gasket and seal set set on Amazon for $65.
That is the correct flywheel puller.
I would use ThreeBond 1211 sealant. $20 on Amazon.

That PTO tool will not work on your XP. You will have to use a chain wrench and heat. You will also have to put the rear cylinder back together so that you can put rope down the plug hole to stop it from turning.

You don't have to do anything with the timing.

You will have to align the engine with the special tool.
Click to expand...

Dang, you got me back from the other week, LOL. Totally missed the 97 XP in the title, so yes, chain wrench for the PTO.

I prefer OEM gasket sets but I'm sure a WSM is fine. OEM is way more money. And yes on the hyperboilc hulls like teh 97XP you need the alignment tool.


http://columbia.craigslist.org/bpo/5589844010.html


1.5 hours south of you and a good deal. Someone posted it last week stating the guy would ship it. You can buy them new for $150 shipped I think. Or perhaps he'll drive a 1/2 hour north to meet you part way?
 
g_campbell said:
How do i get to the PTO? I don't see a bolt or anything? What is the purpose of the engine alignment tool? and okay I guess I'll have to put the top end back together...that's annoying lol
Click to expand...

If you have the engine out already the PTO is on the back of the engine, it screws on. The PTO itself is threaded. Bolt the cylinders back on, bolt the head on and then take and turn the piston the TDC on teh PTO cylinder, then rotate it CW past TDC a little bit and then stuff about 6' of clothesline thru the spark plug hole then put the chain wrench back on and turn CCW to loosen the PTO. You might need to cobble some supports to the engine mount to keep from chasing it around the garage floor. Welcome to the best sport in the world! Had you posted before you dismantled everything we could have saved you some heart ache.


You need this

205.jpg
 
racerxxx said:
If you have the engine out already the PTO is on the back of the engine, it screws on. The PTO itself is threaded. Bolt the cylinders back on, bolt the head on and then take and turn the piston the TDC on teh PTO cylinder, then rotate it CW past TDC a little bit and then stuff about 6' of clothesline thru the spark plug hole then put the chain wrench back on and turn CCW to loosen the PTO. You might need to cobble some supports to the engine mount to keep from chasing it around the garage floor. Welcome to the best sport in the world! Had you posted before you dismantled everything we could have saved you some heart ache.
Click to expand...

Well thanks for the help guys, I'll get cracking on this and post my results. I'm sure i'll have more questions. But again, I really appreciate the help!
 
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