97 Speedster rebuilt carbs starboard engine still bogging down

[JimHendrix]

I will be as detailed as possible and I'm sure this a beat to death topic, but i'm still in need of ideas as to what to check and do next.

A few weeks ago I was out in my speedster and everything was going alright (I knew the carbs were in need of a rebuild) so far. I started running the boat down the lake and got up to around 4500 RPM and my starboard engine revved up a bit then bogged down and died. I cranked her back up several times and every time since I can only get her up to about 4500 rpm before it starts to bog down. I can keep it from quitting on me if I throttle down. Now, she is getting some speed and I am able to plane out.

I just rebuilt both of my carbs yesterday, the filters were gunky and the carbs in general had build up. I cleaned them up really good and got them back in this am. I made sure the Low Speed adjustment and High speed adjustment were in factory specs. I also replaced the already new spark plugs just for good measure. I just put the boat in the water for a test run and I got both engines to fire up right away. I had no problem at idle speed, but again when I hit the throttle, my starboard engine got to around 4500 rpm and just bogged down. Port engine is running fine and both can idle all day with no problems. The spark plugs have a slight brown tint and are not wet.

I'm pretty new to all of this so forgive me please if i'm overlooking something simple. Could I have a clogged line perhaps? What should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance

Jim

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[JimHendrix]

I also switched the carbs and the problem did not follow carbs.

 

[smc0922]

I'll need cold engine compression and hot engine compression numbers. While it mainly affects low speed, what is your pop off pressure at?

 

[jhjesse]

Might try:
Compression test.
Cleaning the fuel filter/water seperators. Make sure the 0 ring seats properly. Use vaseline.
Fuel selector valve probably has the same gunk that was in the carbs. I would clean or replace it.
Pull the fuel baffle and clean the screen on the bottom.

 

[JimHendrix]

On the carbs, I only changed the filters and gaskets, the needle and seat all looked to be in great shape so I did not think it was necessary to change them. This boat has not been used that much in 15 years. It belonged to my girlfriend's parents who rarely had it out.

And as for compression, well, I don't have the equipment on hand to test that so I will have to get back to you.


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[JimHendrix]

I pulled the fuel selector valve and both of them actually looked pretty clean. I will do the other things you suggested.


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[JimHendrix]

I'll need cold engine compression and hot engine compression numbers. While it mainly affects low speed, what is your pop off pressure at?

Do I need a specific compression tester kit? Or can I find one that will work on my seadoo at an auto parts store?


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[smc0922]

Nope your standard $30 compression tester will get you in the ballpark. The fancy $70 one at sears does come with every adapter imagineable though, if you're looking for a quality tool.

 

[JimHendrix]

Nope your standard $30 compression tester will get you in the ballpark. The fancy $70 one at sears does come with every adapter imagineable though, if you're looking for a quality tool.

thanks man, I'll go pick one up in the morning and post my findings.


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[Dr Honda]

I think these guys have you on the right track.

Since the problem didn't follow the carbs... then the prob isn't there....


Get us the compression numbers, and we will go from there.


Also... make sure you have fire on both spark plugs.

 

[JimHendrix]

Going to get a compression tester now. I checked the sparks and i'm getting a nice blue spark on both plugs.


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[JimHendrix]

Cold compression 115 and 120 on the starboard engine.

I can't put the boat in the water but I cranked her up and let her run for 20 or 30 seconds and did the test again.

Came up with 120 and 125. I know that is low

 

[jhjesse]

Throttle wide open during test??

 

[JimHendrix]

Throttle wide open during test??

Oops. Nope.

UPDATE: I cleaned out the fuel filter and went back and cleaned out the valve selector. I took her to the water and she fired up perfectly. I got her out past the no wake zone and neither engine would go past 4000 RPMs. headed back to the dock and got a really LONG beep. Trailered the boat and looked underneath her, sure enough, they had debris all in them. I cleaned them out thoroughly and waited and hour for most of the trash to clear out of the cove (There was an outrageous amount of debris in the water today, several Sea Doors mentioned sucking up junk in the cove we were in). Anyway, got her past the no wake signs and slowly brought her to a plane. 4500 RPMs and she was sailing smoothly, so I pushed it to 5000, then 5500, and got both engines running at 6000. Just past the 6000 mark and my starboard engine wants to jump from 6000 to 5000 and then back up... But it is not bogging down and dying like it was before. In fact, she ran really smoothly all day. I believe I may need to run new fuel lines. Overall, she is getting close to running like a top, and i'm pleased that I'm doing it myself (with the help of folks much more knowledgable than I).

Any other thoughts or ideas of what I should do will be most welcomed.

Thanks

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[Guest_User]

edit: incorrect info.

 

[jhjesse]

Oops. Nope.

UPDATE: I cleaned out the fuel filter and went back and cleaned out the valve selector. I took her to the water and she fired up perfectly. I got her out past the no wake zone and neither engine would go past 4000 RPMs. headed back to the dock and got a really LONG beep. Trailered the boat and looked underneath her, sure enough, they had debris all in them. I cleaned them out thoroughly and waited and hour for most of the trash to clear out of the cove (There was an outrageous amount of debris in the water today, several Sea Doors mentioned sucking up junk in the cove we were in). Anyway, got her past the no wake signs and slowly brought her to a plane. 4500 RPMs and she was sailing smoothly, so I pushed it to 5000, then 5500, and got both engines running at 6000. Just past the 6000 mark and my starboard engine wants to jump from 6000 to 5000 and then back up... But it is not bogging down and dying like it was before. In fact, she ran really smoothly all day. I believe I may need to run new fuel lines. Overall, she is getting close to running like a top, and i'm pleased that I'm doing it myself (with the help of folks much more knowledgable than I).

Any other thoughts or ideas of what I should do will be most welcomed.

Thanks

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Good to hear you are making progress. What about the compression test? Did you redo it?
Pull the plugs and look at them. They should be chocolate brown and slightly wet. If they are lighter in color then you need to richen the fuel by turning the LSA's counter clockwise (out) approximately 1/8 turn at a time.

 

[JimHendrix]

Good to hear you are making progress. What about the compression test? Did you redo it?
Pull the plugs and look at them. They should be chocolate brown and slightly wet. If they are lighter in color then you need to richen the fuel by turning the LSA's counter clockwise (out) approximately 1/8 turn at a time.

Have not redone the compression test yet, I ended up borrowing a compression tester and have not had the chance to work on the boat since Monday. I have noticed that I have a leak in my oil lines and want to go ahead and replace all the lines.

It is my understanding that I will be using 3/32" tygon fuel lines, is this correct? Also, Will I need to remove the oil tank and flip it upside down to keep oil from pooring out? Or should I just let it all drain out and refill it when i'm done replacing the lines?

 

[rjcress]

It is my understanding that I will be using 3/32" tygon fuel lines, is this correct? Also, Will I need to remove the oil tank and flip it upside down to keep oil from pooring out? Or should I just let it all drain out and refill it when i'm done replacing the lines?

Which size line you need depends on exactly which lines you will be replacing.
This should help you sort it out: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...adoojb&a=182&b=16&c=0&d=-OIL-INJECTION-SYSTEM

 

[jhjesse]

Have not redone the compression test yet, I ended up borrowing a compression tester and have not had the chance to work on the boat since Monday. I have noticed that I have a leak in my oil lines and want to go ahead and replace all the lines.

It is my understanding that I will be using 3/32" tygon fuel lines, is this correct? Also, Will I need to remove the oil tank and flip it upside down to keep oil from pooring out? Or should I just let it all drain out and refill it when i'm done replacing the lines?

The two lines going from the oil pump to each cylinder is 3/32." Are those lines the one you are describing??

 

[JimHendrix]

The two lines going from the oil pump to each cylinder is 3/32." Are those lines the one you are describing??

Well I haven't totally pin pointed where the leak is coming from exactly, I do believe it is coming from somewhere close to the engine. It has never leaked before until recently. i'm going to go take a look here shortly and see if I can't locate the actual source of the leak

 

[JimHendrix]

Plugs looked good to me, didn't seem to be running lean.

As for the leak, I took the carbs off and checked the oil lines, the return line was dry, the oil line coming from the oil filter into the engine has a slight film of grease on it. I'm not sure that is where the bulk of the oil is coming from though, there is quite a bit of oil in the bilge. I attached a pic of the pooled oil. this is the 2nd time i've noticed it pooled up like this... of course, i haven't had her that long, but i have not had to keep the drain plug in when storing until recently otherwise I risk leaking oil all over my garage.

I will say that when I first crank up, she tends to be a bit smokey at first, but it clears up fairly quickly.


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[rjcress]

...there is quite a bit of oil in the bilge. I attached a pic of the pooled oil.

Is it pooled under the engine as well? What I see in the pic doesn't look like much at all.
Not saying it isn't and issue or that you should ignore it. Just that I was expecting LOTS of oil... like this:

Regardless, and oil leak needs to be fixed before it causes you problems.
The good news is that there aren't that many oil lines, so isolating which one is leaking shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[jhjesse]

Just my opinion,
Your boat is 16yrs old...I would just replace all the oil lines and filters. You can do it for just a few dollars and the piece of mine is worth way more than that.

Just a couple questions:
Where is your oil tank in relation to the oil spill??
Are you sure the oil is not coming from up above somewhere??
The reason I am asking is the oil tank vent that is on top of the tank could be defective and bleeding oil behind the tank letting it drip down behind.

Part #19 on the diagram.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Just my opinion,
Your boat is 16yrs old...I would just replace all the oil lines and filters. You can do it for just a few dollars and the piece of mine is worth way more than that.

Just a couple questions:
Where is your oil tank in relation to the oil spill??
Are you sure the oil is not coming from up above somewhere??
The reason I am asking is the oil tank vent that is on top of the tank could be defective and bleeding oil behind the tank letting it drip down behind.

Part #19 on the diagram.

I agree,,, If it were me I would replace every line just because of the age and the ethanol issues that most older lines are having..