• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

97 seadoo xp running issues

Status
Not open for further replies.

gabe

New Member
Hi, I'm new to this forum but hope I can get some help. I purchased a 97 seadoo xp a year ago and have had nothing but problems and I'm about to give up on jet skis if I can't get this fixed.
Everytime I take it out, it starts and runs relatively fine. After about an hour or so, it just shuts off and won't start. This is more annoying because it usually happens in the middle of the lake so I have to swim in. After sitting for about 4-5 hours it will start again.
Sometimes after it shuts off, it will try to turn over but won't start, and other times you hit the start button and nothing, sometimes you hit the start button and it make 1 beep and that is it.
I was able to test for spark one time after it shutdown and it had nothing. This leads me to believe it is the ignition coil or something with the magneto? I already changed the rectifier and new correct plugs/and gap. Battery is fine.

Other things that might help diagnoise.... when running it detenates at low rpm's. The spark plugs become oil fouled (prob from detenation) but I'm not sure why. I run 40:1 mix (no injection). Could the iginition timing be the problem? Also, it seems to have a lot less power that it did when I first got it.
Can someone please help? I'm tired of swimming accross the lake
 
Welcome to the seadoo forum gabe. I'm sorry you have these problems. I think you have a combinition of problems happening. First if you get only 1 beep it sounds like the DESS,(Digital Electronic Security System) isn't getting a good connection. Clean the post and Lanyard cap with soapy water. Don't use anything on the post or cap. Just use soap and water to clean it. If it isn't giving 2 beeps it won't communicate to the mpem(Multi Purpose Electronic Module). This could be causing your problem of it just stopping and not starting. I would also take a compression test of the cylinders so you know what the internals of the engine are doing. The compression should be ideally 150 psi. per cylinder. If it is below 100 psi, it could be a problem also. If your not sure at how to check the compression give me a shout and I'll get you on track, on how to check it. After you check the compression and clean the lanyard post and cap, give it a try and see how it is at starting. I'll also give you some instructions on how to check the coils, and stator, if cleaning the post and cap didn't help the problem.

Karl
 
Gabe, here are more checks on the electrical system.

Safety switch post/ lanyard/ DESS system

Engine start/stop switch verification;
Disconnect the Yellow/Red wire of the start/stop switch. Using an ohmmeter, connect test probes to the Yellow/Red wire and to ground. Measure resistance, it must be an open circuit (switch is normally open). Depress and hold switch, the ohmmeter should read close to “0” ohm.

Safety Lanyard Switch Verification;
If 2 short beeps are not heard when installing the safety lanyard, disconnect the switch wires.
Safety lanyard removed; connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It’s an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be “0” ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to “0” ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be “0” ohm.

Timer Verification;
The timer is integrated into the MPEM. Always confirm that the fuses are in good condition. To confirm operation of timer, remove the safety lanyard from switch. After 5 seconds delay, depress start/stop button once. The timer should stay on for 33 seconds (for example, the gauge(s) will be activated) and than turn off.

"Bombardier Ignition Tester"

Is required to test the following components;
Testing trigger coil, ignition coils

I think part of the problem is in the DESS lanyard and post. If it fails any test, you will need to replace the failed part.

Karl
 
Well, I don't have a comp tester right now so I'll have to wait on that.
I took the hood off and many wires to the start/stop switch and lanyard post had the some insulation striped off and were taped with duct tape.
How do I disconnect the yellow/red wire? there is no disconnection point from the switch to the MPEM connector. It wires directly into the MPEM connector. If I disconnect the MPEM connector,it will read open circuit to ground always.

Unfortunately, I was checking stuff on the MPEM connector and a few of the pins seemed loose. One was really loose and I touched it and it broke off. It was the black/yellow wire to the lanyard post. Now I have to fix that. I wonder if the loose ones are almost broke. I would rip all the wiring out and use my own connectors but the connector to the MPEM would have to remain. I would like to rewire all and place MPEM in my own waterproof box but that connector peice is a problem? anyone done this before?

lanyard switch test was fine.

Checked the timer and it works.

I did find that the wires to the ignition coil were swapped. Dont no if that will make a difference.

The system is wierd. Sometimes it beeps twice and sometimes not at all. Yet it starts when cold usually always whether it beeps twice or not.
 
Gabe, it sounds like you have a mess on you hands. The mpem might need to be replaced, because you can't re-wire the connectors. It is possible that the beeper is bad and only works when it wants to. If the mpem doesn't send 2 beeps it won't start. (the beeper might not sound off all the time)

Keep us posted.

Karl
 
Well I was able to solder the little pin back onto the wiring harness. We'll see if it holds...Better than buying a $450 wiring harness... I'm gonna try it out this weekend and see if the swapped wires to the coil has had anything to do with it.

Do you know where I could get an old non working MPEM... I would like to tear it apart and see it....Possibly rebuild my own or... build something to get rid of all these stupid little connector pins...? If I go to the extent of rewiring it, I want it done right (to last) , not like seadoo does it...
 
There seems to be very few problems the way seadoo does it. That's an 11 year old seadoo Gabe. My 1997 challenger has never had any corrosion in any connections...and it is salt water run. It's all about how you take care of something. I'll look around for a used MPEM, but I wouldn't count on finding one.

Karl
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top