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97 seadoo xp flooded with water wont start.

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Tacomatrx450

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so yesterday my sisters bf had flipped the seadoo in the water and it was full with water "the engine was submerged , and on top of that they had it towed :facepalm: i have installed a automatic bilge bump so how it took on so much water was beyond me. "oh they ripped the layard also :facepalm: i drain the water, and removed the spark plugs and turned the engine over many times, and then more times today. i bought new spark plugs, and i cant get this engine to work. i poured fresh fuel, and oil mix, but it will not turn on. i drain the battery and right now its charging. any suggestions? if i cant get it starting by tomorrow i will take it in to get serviced before any rusting can happen. any information would be great thanks :(
 
Take the plugs out to help the starter and get any residual water out, then spray fogging oil through carb inlets liberally, then some in the cylinder walls. That will buy you some time. Next, check for spark. Get an inline spark checker (much safer) if no spark, check the rear ebox for water (there probably will be) and dry it out. Check all fuses if any are blown, then replace and try again.

I would also look into the gas and oil tanks for any water contamination. Oil tanks are pretty forgiving and sealed, but gas tanks may get some.

Check your inline fuel water separator for any water contamination.
 
cool thanks, i checked the box and it was dry, and oil looks okay. fuel tank was pretty full when it rolled over, but i dont think it would affect the gas in the lines, cause it didnt start after at all so i figure the water wouldnt get to the lines that already had gas? i will check the fuses tomorrow. i did check for spark i connected a jumper to engine ground, and the spark plug boot and i can see, and hear the sparks.

i do believe the carbs were filled with water, is there a fuel drain off for the bowl?
 
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Well then I would disconnect the main fuel line for the carbs and run the line into a small jerry can of fresh premix. Then crank the engine over again, pull the choke, WOT and see if she fires. There is no "bowl" on these engines, only diaphrams (because of the nature of the seadoo and G-forces on turns would cause havoc on a float system. Thats why weed wackers and leaf blowers have diaphram carbs as compared to ordinary lawmowers with floats. (diaphram carbs are used more when the engine is rotated alot, or even upside down)

Only once did I ever see a hydrolocked engine that actually physically blew the fuel pump diaphram up (well tore it) due to water pressure inside the pulse line. That would be another thing to check. The pulse line that goes from carb down to the engine block.

Does the ski fire at all if you pour a tablespoon of gas down each cylinder?
 
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i think i might have poured more then a tablespoon of gas into each cylinder. the engine will only turn over, and when it seems to kinda want to start, the starter disengages, and then nothing. i dont see any smoke coming out of the exhaust at all. i bought the seadoo, and the guy modified it plenty so i dont have a choke, just a primer. can the choke be access from the engine compartment?
 
You need to keep cranking with the plugs out, do it with the throttle open to increase the pumping effect through the case. The kicking over is almost getting there, you just need to get a bit more out.
 
got it to work today, i put a little starter fluid with lubricant, and my neighbor let me use his battery charger. it turned the starter like a champ and fired right up. it smoked pretty bad for a bit but after it was clear, and it turns on now on the first try without the charger, or fluid. i let it run without the house for like 3 mins, and then about 10 mins on the hose. so now that it works, what should i do before i store it? should i still let it warm up on the hose?
 
Please tell me you really didnt just say that you ran it without the hose for like 3 minutes....:banghead::banghead:
 
Please tell me you really didnt just say that you ran it without the hose for like 3 minutes....:banghead::banghead:
OOOOOUCH . CR tell him the damage that can be caused by doing that . I know overheating and carbon ring but What other things can happen ?
 
I think the more serious thing is the 10 minutes on the hose, possibly damaging the carbon ring.

Regardless, if you just store it for the winter you'll have a nice boat anchor come spring. You need to get on the water ASAP and ride hard for at least an hour to evaporate all of the remaining moisture from the engine. You can't get everything out otherwise
 
ahhh yea i did, my bad... ill see if i can take it out this weekend at least for a few hours. the carbon ring isnt too bad i think they can be replaced pretty easy. i was just concern more for the water, and haveing it rust. :(
 
You might want to get a compression reading on that motor. I don't believe I've ever seen one run 3 minutes without water. I know how hot they get just after a few seconds, I can't imagine how hot the motor was after a few minutes.
 
Once you get a water logged ski running, you need to back it down a ramp and let it run to the point it will start on command. Then you NEED to go for a 30 minute run on the water so that the engine gets nice and warm and gets rid of the residual water that is inside the engine to remove the concern of internal rust and seizure of the engine.

You can run it on a hose at home but NEED to either put water in the hull to protect the carbon seal of have a means for water to spray against it from underneath.

Jumping a ski from a NON-running item such as a vehicle is ok. You should NEVER jump from a running vehicle. I know you used a jump box. My point is, you need to be careful of the amperage applied as the MPEM does not like external amps and may cause it to fail. They are pretty expensive. Just an FYI for you..

Glad it is running, now get it warm and enjoy it...
 
thanks for the info. the charger was a 12v max source. 3 mins was a little exaggerated on my part, i say more of about 1 min, and about 4-6 mins on the hose. i kept feeling the engine temp, and it was pretty cold. im going to try and take it out today to get the remaining water out. so quick question... does the engine get any oil at all when turning the motor over and over again trying to start?
 
Just re-read your post.

You should NEVER charge or jump the ski with the battery connected. And in all cases make sure the lanyard is not on the DESS post.

2.5 amps is about all the MPEM is willing to absorb externally by our charger was at least 10 and could easily be more.

Sounds like you got lucky. But I wouldn't make a habit of it.
 
Yea it was that or risk paying $1400 which a shop quoted me to perform the ski recovery. the charger was a 12v @2amp "i think", but ohhh yeah lesson learned. Thanks for the advice I won’t be doing that again.
 
As has already been mentioned, take the ski to the water and ride the heck out of it for 30 mins or more. After you've ridden it, take it home and run a compression check and let us know your readings. If you don't have a compression gauge, you can rent one for free from Autozone, Advance Auto Parts or something similar out there in the Republic of Kalifornia.
 
Yea it was that or risk paying $1400 which a shop quoted me to perform the ski recovery. the charger was a 12v @2amp "i think", but ohhh yeah lesson learned. Thanks for the advice I won’t be doing that again.

The irony is, the MPEM in near a grad as well.

Glad all is good, now go enjoy the ski.
 
took it out on the lake today to burn off the renaming water, and it ran fine. starts on first push, and compression test is 160 on both cylinders.
 
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