97 Seadoo Speedster Twin 717 Wont go over 10mph! Help!

[rgardner928]

So I have a problem with my 97 Speedster. I first had a problem with idle not matching and a problem that felt like cavitation which I thought were my wear rings. I fixed the idle problem and installed new wear rings. I tried to take her out the other day and it starts and idles correctly in water but when accelerating the boat refuses to go over 10mph. The boat makes a lot of wake, the engines rev smoothly and evenly but the boat does not accelerate over 10mph. If I max the rpms thd wake gets bigger, but my speed stays thd same, slowing crawling along the lake.

What else could this be guys?

Try to be descriptive with me when replying as I am handy, but not very experienced when it comes to this. The neoprene seal is new and my pump stator fins and blades appear to be solid. My wife and I are little fat asses (totalling about 500lbs combined).

I read somewhere on here about blade pitches and different thrusts. Due to weight I be I need yo change my impellers to something non factory..but don't know the first thing. I would like to increase the pitch of my blades for more low end thrust.

What would I change my OEM seadoo 11/22 blades to?

Dr Honda said in a closed forum,
"Impellers are up to you. Skat-Trak "Swirl" impellers are you best bet for low end."

But what do I look for? Skat-Trak 11/22 pitch? That I don't fully understand or get.

 

[Dr Honda]

It's the carbon seals. You are suking air past them... and in turn... no thrust.

 

[rgardner928]

I just checked...Can you tell me what part of this is the carbon seals? I dont think I have them.

 

[kevin.m]

So I have a problem with my 97 Speedster. I first had a problem with idle not matching and a problem that felt like cavitation which I thought were my wear rings. I fixed the idle problem and installed new wear rings. I tried to take her out the other day and it starts and idles correctly in water but when accelerating the boat refuses to go over 10mph. The boat makes a lot of wake, the engines rev smoothly and evenly but the boat does not accelerate over 10mph. If I max the rpms thd wake gets bigger, but my speed stays thd same, slowing crawling along the lake.

What else could this be guys?

Try to be descriptive with me when replying as I am handy, but not very experienced when it comes to this. The neoprene seal is new and my pump stator fins and blades appear to be solid. My wife and I are little fat asses (totalling about 500lbs combined).

I read somewhere on here about blade pitches and different thrusts. Due to weight I be I need yo change my impellers to something non factory..but don't know the first thing. I would like to increase the pitch of my blades for more low end thrust.

What would I change my OEM seadoo 11/22 blades to?

Dr Honda said in a closed forum,
"Impellers are up to you. Skat-Trak "Swirl" impellers are you best bet for low end."

But what do I look for? Skat-Trak 11/22 pitch? That I don't fully understand or get.

READ THIS Hey I had the same problem it’s going to cost you 100 bucks it’s a neutral safety switch it’s located under the your throttle Controls you can bypass switch just to see if that’s what’s wrong but if that’s what’s wrong replace it and go out and have fun

 

[kevin.m]

READ THIS Hey I had the same problem it’s going to cost you 100 bucks it’s a neutral safety switch it’s located under the your throttle Controls you can bypass switch just to see if that’s what’s wrong but if that’s what’s wrong replace it and go out and have fun

 

[rgardner928]

READ THIS Hey I had the same problem it’s going to cost you 100 bucks it’s a neutral safety switch it’s located under the your throttle Controls you can bypass switch just to see if that’s what’s wrong but if that’s what’s wrong replace it and go out and have fun

What I dont understand...is how the neutral switch has anything to do with it cavitating. All that switch does is tell the motors when your in neutral so you can start them, etc. Right?

 

[kevin.m]

His boat is doing exactly what mine was doing I did everything you could do wear rings new impellers and I tryed the switch bypass it and what do you have to loose the hour it will take I am pretty sure that’s your problem when your boat in water and you put in forward both or just one motor you only move 5 maybe 10 km and it seems like it is cavitating if your boat doing that try that fix ,bypass first

 

[Dr Honda]

It would be the neutral switch if your engines aren't going past 3500 rpm. If they go to full power, and bounce off the rev limiter... then it's NOT the neutral switch.

The picture you posted is a seal pack from the '95 and earlier. That's not what is in the '97. Is that a picture of your boat? If it is... look on the back of the hull and your HIN number. Tell me the last 2 digits. I don't think it is your boat, since I see bailers from the PWC... but I have to ask first.

 

[rgardner928]

This is mine..that was the wrong picture.

 

[rgardner928]

Another quick question. How to I stop this from leaking? Ive replaces the seal twice now with brand new oem (not aftermarket) seals. I get about 2 to 3 weeks out of it..then it leaks again. Can I put some type of sealant/glue on it?

Also..what size line is the top..and the bottom?

 

[2x2smoke]

This is mine..that was the wrong picture.View attachment 36766

from left to right
flexible rubber hull bellows
hard carbon donut seal
shiny stainless tophat
small oetiker clamp
rubber pto bellows
large oetiker clamp
grease zerk

The sealing surface is between the stationary carbon ring (attached to hull) and the spinning tophat (attached to drive shaft). Pressure between the two surfaces creates the seal. To increase pressure at the surface you move the stationary hull components to the right or the spinning driveshaft components to the left.

Loosen the worm clamp and push the hull bellows to the right. A ziptie around the middle of the bellows can make it less springy and tighten the sealing surface.

Now onto what is your problem(probably) Your small oetiker clamp is unhooked and your pto bellows is deflated so no leftward pressure is being applied to the driveshaft and tophat. Rehook or replace the clamp and inflate the pto bellows with grease via the zerk. This pushes the whole driveshaft to the left and increases sealing pressure.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... what he said.

I see a carbon seal that is off center more than normal. SO>.. I'm guessing it's warn internaly. In turn, making a thin spot at the seal surface.

I'm also guessing your boot has lost spring tension. You can try the suggestion above with the sip tie... but I would push your stainless run aft, and see if your drive shaft has the multiple clip points. If it does... move it forward one slot and put more tension on the seal.

 

[rgardner928]

from left to right
flexible rubber hull bellows
hard carbon donut seal
shiny stainless tophat
small oetiker clamp
rubber pto bellows
large oetiker clamp
grease zerk

The sealing surface is between the stationary carbon ring (attached to hull) and the spinning tophat (attached to drive shaft). Pressure between the two surfaces creates the seal. To increase pressure at the surface you move the stationary hull components to the right or the spinning driveshaft components to the left.

Loosen the worm clamp and push the hull bellows to the right. A ziptie around the middle of the bellows can make it less springy and tighten the sealing surface.

Now onto what is your problem(probably) Your small oetiker clamp is unhooked and your pto bellows is deflated so no leftward pressure is being applied to the driveshaft and tophat. Rehook or replace the clamp and inflate the pto bellows with grease via the zerk. This pushes the whole driveshaft to the left and increases sealing pressure.

Ok...let ne work on it.

 

[rgardner928]

Yep... what he said.

I see a carbon seal that is off center more than normal. SO>.. I'm guessing it's warn internaly. In turn, making a thin spot at the seal surface.

I'm also guessing your boot has lost spring tension. You can try the suggestion above with the sip tie... but I would push your stainless run aft, and see if your drive shaft has the multiple clip points. If it does... move it forward one slot and put more tension on the seal.

Thanks

 

[Lee.Harrison]

Same thing with me if i send a picture would you be able to tell me if something looks off dr honda?