97 SeaDoo GTI Blowing Front and Rear 15 amp fuses

[gut2212]

I have a 97 SeaDoo GTI that is blowing the front and rear 15 amp fuses when trying to start. I took it to a dealer and originally he thought it might be the solenoid. He said he replaced it but it was still blowing fuses, he then suggested that it might be the MPEM but he did not have one to test with and ordering one would take to long. I have been doing some research and I have seen that if the 5 amp fuse on the MPEM blowing then you may need a new one or a repair. I ran across a post with a similar problem and someone suggested that it might be the rectifier? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some info on the charging system;
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.
The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.


If the regulator is bad, it will put out too much voltage and blow the 15 amp fuses.

I hope this helps.

Karl

 

[gut2212]

Thanks for the info but the fuses blow as soon as I try to start the engine (I don't think I made that clear, sorry) so If there is a way to get it started by bypassing something I could try to put the volt meter on it.

 

[timmyboy76]

disconnect the red wire from rectifier, then try, if pops, then disconnect the yellow wires, or vise-versa. If yellow wires disconnected, and stops pop'n, then..either, wire is worn out/get'n hot in stator assy, or thers metal shavings down in stator assy unit, grounding the unit out....

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some info on the charging system;
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.
The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.


If the regulator is bad, it will put out too much voltage and blow the 15 amp fuses.

I hope this helps.

Karl

Thanks for the info but the fuses blow as soon as I try to start the engine (I don't think I made that clear, sorry) so If there is a way to get it started by bypassing something I could try to put the volt meter on it.

If you read my post, it explains what it is doing and what I think the problem is....replace the REGULATOR. I try to explain what is happening so you under stand why.

Karl