97 SeaDoo Challenger in need of help!

[TheCabralFamily]

This weekend we purchased a 97 SeaDoo Challenger, and were very excited to take it out...the boat did not share our excitement..

Here's what I know so far

Purchased it on Friday, and when I looked it over both engines started right up (On Trailer) , although it took 2 new plugs in the right engine to fire up quickly However they both ran strong and clean. We trailered it about 90 minutes home.

Sunday morning, all set to go for a ride, replaced all 4 plugs with NGK BR8ES Plugs, fresh oil & Gas (Set to premix at 40:1), and dropped it in the water. Left engine fired up, but the right took awhile (5 mins). Once both engines were idling, I pulled away form the dock. Once out 30' the engines would not rev up past 3500 rpm, both were at the identical rpm speed and I had a large amount of smoke coming from the engine compartment. both engines would stall, and take awhile to get up again.

Called the seller who confirms he was out the following weekend in it, and it "Might be running too rich". I pulled back out and added a 5 gallons of additional gas (No Oil) and tried again with the exact same results. This time I over started it and took out the Left Stater (now on order). I'm hoping there's a simple solution to all this. Thank You

 

[Coastiejoe]

If you ordered an aftermarket starter, it will likely fail. They just don't hold up. You are better to pulls your OEM starter and install a. Re brush kit.

Smoke from the engine compartment may be an exhaust leak. And if so, the engine will run poorly. Solve the exhaust leak first.

 

[XP 787]

+1 on exhaust leak. Also a faulty neutral safety switch could cause the rpm issues. If its bad even in forward it will max out at 3,500 rpm's. I think [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] posted a vid of his boat running in neutral and forward.

 

[racerxxx]

Yep

https://youtu.be/Zoxqd7HMlto

 

[TheCabralFamily]

Update! I tested the neutral switch, and it was still in good shape.

It was the Left Engine Exhaust Vale that was failing, and then causing the compartment to fill up with smoke and choke both engines! Having the shop up the road replace all 4 and then, fingers crossed, should be up and running again. Thank You for all the input, so greatly appreciated.

 

[Steelmesh]

Update! I tested the neutral switch, and it was still in good shape.

It was the Left Engine Exhaust Vale that was failing, and then causing the compartment to fill up with smoke and choke both engines! Having the shop up the road replace all 4 and then, fingers crossed, should be up and running again. Thank You for all the input, so greatly appreciated.

I diagnosed a neutral switch on my 1996 Sportster this weekend. It was okay, starting up the very first fire of the new engine rebuild, I worked all night Saturday to get it to fire (exhaust was off too), once it fired I went to bed. The next day it wouldn't start anymore, the starter would click, then give me 4-beeps followed by 1-beep. I concluded the single beep was the signal that it was in neutral, then when I hit the starter button the computer said it wasn't in neutral.

The internet said it is probably the neutral switch, I pulled the shifter then jumpered the connector, it would start every time no issues. I took it out on a maiden voyage after 30 hours of service and $1,500 invested, I installed a temporary toggle switch to tell the computer it is neutral to start it, then I switch the toggle off when I took it out for the first test drive, everything 100% good.

I checked the neutral switch, with it 'made' I get 4 megaohms, with it open it is open circuit

Moral here is, I recommend rigging something up with your neutral switch, with a standard jumper wire (with 2 alligator clips) I just jumpered the pins on the 'boat-side' connector. So jumper it to start the engine, then pull off the jumper to see if you can get past 3,500 rpms.