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97 GTX No Beeps, Instruments Light Up, No Clicks from Relay

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juicyjim

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Hey all, I've been working on this 97 GTX for almost 2 summers now. I got it running last season after rebuilding the carbs (which I broke), buying new carbs (that worked) and had it running in the driveway for about 5 minutes, the first time I took it out on the water I couldnt keep the engine running, and when I took it back to the garage, the key (or keypost) would fail to keep the cluster going with 12.6v on the battery.

Since the beginning of this season, I have replaced the keypost 2x because one had no continuity from ground ring to the ground wire, new ignition coil, new relay, new S/S button and replaced a 5 amp fuse in the front e-box.

My symptoms are now this, when I put the new OR old key on there are no beeps that chirp at me and I cant remember since its been so long since last season if the cluster is supposed to light up when the key is installed. With key on OR off, i can press the S/S button and get the cluster up which always says fuel low, even though it has a full tank of gas. When I hold the S/S key, there are no clicks from the relay and the starter doesn't turn over. I have jumped the starter with a wrench so I know that the starter still works. The new relay/solenoid was installed in the same orientation as the OEM one, but I have read that they can be installed backwards easily. The final symptom is that I am out of ideas as I have started to go out of my depth with the electrical knowledge and am afraid of frying something on accident.

My next steps are to get a new beeper to diagnostic at least the key and keypost to make sure they are working still and do some research on how to test the coil and solenoid, which are new, but could be bad because thats what happened with the keypost. Im also afraid the MPEM is fried because my brother-in-law kept on starting it with a jump pack even after telling him not to :mad:

For some context this is my first ski and I have had a blast working on it, but right now I'm just stuck. Bought it for 400 bucks from a family friend and am not afraid to throw more cash in the water!
 
Cant quite figure out how to delete the thread, but I had reinstalled the keypost with the ground continuity issue... dumb. After I was done cursing at myself I installed the actual new keypost and now the starter turns over. It has not fired up yet, but ill update the thread when I find root cause.
From last season, I think I suspect the crankseal is bad, but wont know for sure until it runs for more than 5 minutes.
 
Your fuel gauge probably does not read correctly because the F1 fuse on the vertical circuit board in the fuel baffle pickup is gone,,,there are threads out here for the repair that will cost you 1/8 of an inch of solder...and just your time.
It is impossible i think to install the selenoid backwards,,,since the connector outlet will be facing away from the yellow/red connector.,,and to reverse the red cables from the battery and starter they would have to cross.
 
Yeah I was doubting that was the case, but when you're frustrated, anything seems possible.
Well she fired up with a new set of spark plugs! My AM solenoid that I installed failed within 5 minutes when i was trying to get it warmed up and I had to pull the negative terminal off the battery to get the starter shut off. Luckily I had the OEM solenoid that still works.
Now unfortunately the rear spark plug is getting fouled really fast. So hopefully after I get these carbs tuned that goes away. Getting blueish smoke out the exhaust and the plug comes out black
 
check the compression,,,maybe the "black" plug cylinder is weak?
Maybe the "black" plug carb is leaking..at the needle and seat?,,giving too much fuel...
Really,,,no need to tune carbs,,,you are not on the race circuit where we constantly tune our carbs all day...
I would pull the carbs,,,go through everything,,,and pressure test/popoff,,not to check popoff,,,but to see if the seat is leaking at the needle?....I see many out here who send their carbs out for a "rebuild"...usually they have a lean bog,,from fuel starvation,,,and the little microfilter or the fuel selector is the culprit,,,The popoff gauge is not that expensive,,,and an invaluable tool...(as is having a battery load tester).
 
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