97 GTX Ignition problem

[ridemrick57]

I have a 97 GT that starts, runs great for couple of minutes then loses rpm’s with “Low Volt 12V” warning flashing
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
1) Compression check (both cylinders good)
2) Replaced Battery
3) Replaced coil, plug wires and plugs
4) Replaced fuel lines, fuel filter and fuel selector valve
5) Replaced water regulator WAVE valve
6) Rebuilt both exhaust WAVE valves
7) Replaced multiple rectifiers
8) Replaced Stator ( It was burnt)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[artr]

It might be helpful to know exactly what it does when it loses rpm's. Is it idling at 1500 rpm in the water then drop to say 1000 but still idle ok and stay running with the 12V low message? Or is it running at 5000 rpm and drop to say 4000 and stay running with the 12V low message? Is the battery fully charged and load tested? Does the battery charge at about 14V when you rev the engine to about 5000 rpm? You have replaced a lot of parts including the fuel lines (were the replaced lines gray?), but when was the last time the carbs were rebuilt with genuine Mikuni parts and was the procedure listed at the top of this forum used in the rebuild?

 

[ridemrick57]

It might be helpful to know exactly what it does when it loses rpm's. Is it idling at 1500 rpm in the water then drop to say 1000 but still idle ok and stay running with the 12V low message? Or is it running at 5000 rpm and drop to say 4000 and stay running with the 12V low message? Is the battery fully charged and load tested? Does the battery charge at about 14V when you rev the engine to about 5000 rpm? You have replaced a lot of parts including the fuel lines (were the replaced lines gray?), but when was the last time the carbs were rebuilt with genuine Mikuni parts and was the procedure listed at the top of this forum used in the rebuild?

 

[ridemrick57]

Thanks for your help! It runs momentarily at 5000 rpm then drops to 2000rpm. Yes, I changed out the old grey fuel lines nut have not rebuilt the carbs. It’s a brand new battery but I haven’t “load tested “ it. What’s the best way to do that? Thanks again

 

[artr]

Take the battery to a place like autozone or advanced auto that will load test it for free. They will also charge it if necessary. If you never did the carbs after changing out gray fuel lines, they are probably gummed up internally with green goo from deterioration of the gray lines from ethanol. Get genuine Mikuni parts and follow Miki's rebuild sticky post at the top of this forum. That would be a good winter project depending on your location.
I would test the rectifier again by making sure the battery is fully charged and running the ski with the red wire from the rectifier disconnected to see if that clears up what you described.

 

[ridemrick57]

Take the battery to a place like autozone or advanced auto that will load test it for free. They will also charge it if necessary. If you never did the carbs after changing out gray fuel lines, they are probably gummed up internally with green goo from deterioration of the gray lines from ethanol. Get genuine Mikuni parts and follow Miki's rebuild sticky post at the top of this forum. That would be a good winter project depending on your location.
I would test the rectifier again by making sure the battery is fully charged and running the ski with the red wire from the rectifier disconnected to see if that clears up what you described.

 

[ridemrick57]

Thanks again. I appreciate it.

 

[mikidymac]

The 12V low is one issue but if it starts fine then looses rpm and you have not rebuilt the carbs with Genuine Mikuni kits that is a red flag.