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97 GTX has now power on the water

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GTX rider

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I recently bought a 97 GTX and it ran fine on the trailer. We took it to the water and it ran fine for about 20 minutes. Then while running at about 45-50mph on smooth water it just shut off. It started back up but then would not go hardly go with out dieing. It now will only get up to about 15mph before it sputters out and dies again. I have had the coil, carbs, fuel, stater, and compression checked.

What else could it be? Any suggestions?:confused:
 
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Yes we checked all the filters and the carbs were recently overhauled. It ran fine on the lake the week before.
 
pull plugs and kick ur over, see if oil is com'n out. You've replaced everything, not much else can be done. when carbs overhauled, you check the pop-off?
 
Needle valves open and close several times over a 10 second period while riding the pwc. The big black diaphrams are called regulator diaphrams for a reason.
When the jetblock is full of fuel inside the carbureators, the pressure balance is weighted towards that side of the diaphram and the valves are closed, not allowing fuel to pass. As the motor uses the fuel in the jetblock portion of the carbs, the regulator diaphrams are pushed inward because the pressure differences change and the atmospheric pressure pushes them inward opening the needle valves to replace spent fuel that is being used to keep the motor running.

The needle valvs work as a completely closed valve, or a completely opened valve.
The motor will start because there is fuel present inside the fuel block portion of the carb body as you crank the motor and the fuel pump fills the carbs with fuel. Once full, the regulator diaphram releases the preesure on the needle valve arm and the valve closes until the fuel is used up and it reopens the needle valves refilling the fuel block. This repeats many times per minute when the engine is running
....when you overhauled/rebuilt the carbs...did you install new float arm springs, in the needle/seat assy?
 
hey stud,...heres the call out for your carb settings.....1997 GSX 787 270500284 270500285 BN-40I (SB) MAIN-142.5 PILOT-70 1.5n/s 23 - 43psi LOW- 1 HIGH- (MAG-0 PTO-1/2)
 
I didn't do the carbs. The prvious owner had it done at a boat repair shop so I don't really know about the float arms, etc...
 
umm.......so, when you say"..I have had the coil, carbs, fuel, stater, and compression checked", is that, you did it, or the previous owner, tell'n you he did it...not try'n to sound like smartass, but people tell you anything, to sell something.
 
I talked to his mechanic that did the carbs and her is also the one that checked out the coils, fuels, etc once this problem started. He didn't have the computer to run a diagnostic on it but said he thought it may be electrical. He changed out the coils and stater but didn't work. Now he said we need to take it to a SeaDoo dealer to run a Diagnotics on it. I was just hoping to get some other advice that might point me the right direction.
 
buy a compression tester for 25 bucks at any chain auto parts store. check it yourself. now check the spark with the spark plugs. ground 1 wire at a time on the orange things that look like a plug wire fits on them. put plug on other wire. hold to engine and crank. do not do in bright sunlight, it will be difficult to see.
 
Fuel Lines?

Otis is right, check the fuel selector. I had the same problem and it ran great on reserve! Took me a day to figure that one out. What about the fuel lines? Grey or Black?

I am convinved to chnage mine to see if I can rid myslef of this top end bog which is a real fun killer. Not sure if I should go with stnsupply hose or EFI hose? Any suggestions? How much would I need for a 96GTX??
 
you don't need 2-buck-a-foot fuel injection hose. there is no real pressure there. autozone 1/4 inch fuel line. i think you need about 12 to 16 feet. at 25 cents or so a foot, buy 20.
 
Okay, I have too ask. What is involved in "rebuilding" a carb? Disassemble clean and reassemble??? I know it is a total noob question but my carbs are on the bench right now, I pulled the internal filters and am not sure where to go from there.

Zach
 
Derek, I had the compression checked and the rear cyclinder they are saying has zero compression. Now what? I guess top end overhaul? Any idea how difficult that would be to do myself? Anyone have a guide or website to go to so I can see what is involved?
 
Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl
 
Top end rebuilds are pretty simple. Pull the head off. Pull the cycinders off. Be ready for the pistons to drop out of the bottom of the cylinder. I would have an extra set of hands ready with some rags to catch the piston to prevent any damage. IMOP pull both cylinders and get them honed or bored depending on the extent of damage to the cylinder wall itself. Remove the wrist pin from the piston with a socket that is similar size after removal of the clips on each side of the piston. brace the back side of the piston while tapping the socket to push out the wrist pin. When the wrist pin is half out a bunch of needle bearings are going to fall out and attempt to head into the crank. You need to be prepared for this. Have the holes next to the connecting rods stuffed with rags and an extra set of hands are a good idea for removal of the pistons. Send the cylinders in to a shop that has experience with seadoo and get them to set you up with new pistons, rings, wrist pins and clips. Get new 1 peice wrist pin bearings. The biggest trick is to put wrist pins in freezer for a couple of hours. This will allow them to slip into piston and bearing with ease.
Zach
 
take the motor out of the ski. you do not want to learn to do a top end while working half blind in the engine compartment.
 
I did not even consider it when I rebuilt my top end, but after taking a peak it dose not look to difficult to pull the engine out. After you un bolt the front motor mount dose the motor seperate from the drive easily?

Zach
 
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