97 GTX Engine RPM Surge

[Smithlake]

I have 1997 GTX that surges when runing above 3000 RPM. When I try to accelerate the engine increases RPM and then falls off and then increases again. Any Ideas ??

 

[kustomkarl]

It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.

Keep us posted.

Karl

 

[Smithlake]

Thanks. Are there filters in both carbs or just the first ?

 

[timmyboy76]

both,....if this dont work, disconnect the red wire from rectifier, then give try...

 

[Smithlake]

Thanks Timmyboy

 

[bz1mcr]

Is the problem solved?

 

[Smithlake]

:hurray: I have completed the Carb cleaning and changed out all hoses. The green goop in the hoses and fuel valve was amazing. The carb filters were completely black with crud. I am amazed it started at all. Engine cranked out of water. I plan to give it a try this weekend. Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

[bz1mcr]

Sounds promising, let us know how it works on the water.
Don

 

[kustomkarl]

If I had a nickle for every gray fuel line replaced I'd be rich.:rofl:

Karl

 

[Smithlake]

Welll, I gave it a shot this morning. Starts great, runs fine for about 5 minutes and starts surge again. Someone mentioned removing the red retictifier wire. Is this feasible and could this be the problem. I am stuck at this point.

 

[timmyboy76]

Smith...The rectifier/regulator box does two things. It recieves AC voltage generated by the stator coils through the yellow wires. It then converts that AC power to DC power using the rectifier portion. The red wire sends back to the battery, regulated DC voltage to keep your battery charged while riding the ski.
When the rectifier quits working, that red wire is sending AC voltage to the DC battery. Your ignition runs off DC power as it is a DC CDI ignition. When AC is sent, it interferes with the DC CDI. If you can picture the static your car radio has when under high power lines you can understand how the AC effects the ignition.

A magneto produces very little voltage at lower rpm and more voltage at higher rpm. That is why the motor will start and run decent at lower rpm, but run very ragged at higher rpm when the rectifier is shot...:cheers:

 

[Smithlake]

Thanks Tim- so if I give this a try and it runs ok, I just change out the rectifier I assume.

 

[timmyboy76]

you got it, boss...

 

[Smithlake]

:cheers: Looks like you guys nailed it. I dsconected the red wire on the rectifier. Cranked up and ran like a screamin cat. No more bog or surging. The Red warning light with a 12v message would occasionaly flash on the info screen but I would magine this is normal since it invlces th charging system.

I have a 95 GTS with the same symptoms. Should I start with the rectifier or clean fuel system / hoses or both ?

Thanks again

 

[timmyboy76]

H**L Yah...about the 95", go thru it, chief..when last time carbs were rebuilt?.know whatta mean. Also replace the lines, fuel selector valve and inline filter...:cheers:

 

[Smithlake]

Gotcha I have never touched the 95 and I doubt the previous owner did either. I'll get the tools back out.

 

[Smithlake]

Timmyboy,

Before I took this thing out of the water yestreday, I disconnected the Red wire on the rectifier. The darn thing actually ran worse. Anything to this before I start on the fuel lines and carb ?

Thanks

 

[timmyboy76]

The darn thing actually ran worse...
AHH SHUCKS....hope your talk'n about the 95", if so...reconnect it, and start with fuel system and carbs. More than likely, running worse because battery aint fully charged??:cheers:

 

[Smithlake]

Tim,

Yes, I was talking about the 95. The 97 is fine and I have ordered a new rectifier for the 97. The 95 ran worse and yes the battery was weak. So, I am working on the carb and fuel. One question. This is a single carb doo. I am trying to take the carb off by removing the 2 nuts at the carb's base instead of the 4 bolts that include the rotary valve cover. I don't want to deal with timing unless you tell me this is not an issue. The bolt on the front side (right) is tough to get a wrench on. Back side (left) is easy. Any suggestion of the right side ? BTW, the lines I have removed are full of green goop just like the '97.

Jim

 

[timmyboy76]

what up Jimmy...
probably did, but..removed the airbox??, if so, RV plate is alright, probably not bad idea, then inspect the o-ring also, if bad..pm me, I have new one..anyway, no trick, if not tak'n that route, can get crummy company wrench and heat/bend it up, or the crow-feet wrench...w/ the green goop, just clean line out and reuse..,j/k..replum the ski, what 10buks for all new s**t...oh-yah, if remov'n RV plate, and RV stays intact on gear, your good, but if somehow sticks and falls off, then need to retime, not difficult, say the least, but need degree wheel, download one be fine..147*. Not sure how, hit me upif happens...:cheers:

 

[Smithlake]

Timmyboy,

Got lucky and found short / thinner wrench. 3 bucks. Got carb off w/o pulling rv cover off. Filter stopped up (suprise, suprise). Cleaned up and re-assembled. Working on the lines. This darn '95 is harder than the '97 gtx to reach everything. Thanks for the continued advice.

 

[Smithlake]

Timmyboy,

On this 95 single carb I have finished, the manual I have saysto prime the carb. However the thing is short on details. Is this necessary and any easy tipes on how to do this ?

Jim

 

[nswillin]

Jim, just pull the spark plugs out, turn it over a few times to get the lines filled up. Put the plugs back on fire it up, may have to choke. Go have fun.:cheers:

 

[Smithlake]

Duh. I should of thought of that one.

Thanks

 

[bz1mcr]

Well, I gave my '96 GTX to a mechanic. He water tested it an agreed with those here it a fuel problem. I suggested he consider replacing the grey fuel lines and he said he would put his scope inside them and take a look. The report was lines look ok but carb filters were both pretty dirty and one main jet had a piece of crud in it. He cleaned the filters and carbs and water tested for 25 min. It ran fine. The bill was $135.00 which is way less than my local dealer (Spicer's , Houghton Lake MI.). It cost about $200 just to get you doo in and out of there for most any minor work.

Well it is supposed to be guaranteed for all next season so if the lines are going bad, hopefully I willl know it before the guarantee is up.