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97 GTX Arieltek Timing Adjustment Suggestion (Matt Braley) or Other PROS

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MexicoJoe

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Hey guys, I have another question for this wonderful Seadoo forum that has been a huge help to me previously over the past few years. I recently had an issue with an internal short on the MPEM for the ignition circuit. Without going into all the detail I will put the hyperlink below if you want to read about that.

Starter Engages When Battery is Connected 97 GTX

Essentially, to keep this short, I had an internal short in the MPEM that was providing 12v to the starter signal wire as soon as the ground was hooked up to the battery without the key on the DESS post. Myself and a few others on the forum (JeremyD615) (Ckrawiec) verified and confirmed it was the MPEM. I purchased an Arieltek MPEM brand new from Bay Area Powersports and installed it. Here is the part that I would like some suggestions with regarding the timing curve and ignition timing.

The Arieltek MPEM can be programmed to advance or delay the timing as well as the rev limit. Here is where I'm at currently; I was having some trouble identifying the Engine Identification Number next to the serial tag on the bottom end housing of the engine above the PTO. When I first looked at it, I thought it was potentially a 1 or 7. Then if you look closer, it almost appears as though there is another faint etch that makes it look like it's possibly a 4. Now, as some of you know and by reading a few other posts where MATT BRALEY gives excellent advice on ignition timing there are 8 EIN's. Numbers 2,3 and 4 are timing advance. EIN #1 corresponds with 0°. Numbers 5,6,7 and 8 correspond with delaying the ignition. Because I was having trouble identifying the EIN on my case due to the etch being so faint I took a picture and sent it to my girlfriend who works at a local authorized Seadoo dealer here in PHX,AZ. She showed the picture to a tech with 20 years experience that had also confirmed our original issue with the internal short. He sent me back a text saying that number is a 7. So I programmed the MPEM to EIN #7 which corresponds to -3° timing delay. The ski fired right up and idled at 3k as per normal.

Yesterday, I took the ski out to the lake to give it a test ride. Ski seemed to be running in the ballpark of where it had been for the 2 years I've owned it (GOOD). However, and here is where I need a little help. The ski was on it's way up the engine curve to WOT and then it started bouncing off of the rev limiter at 6100rpm per the digital tach on the info center. I can confirm this is due to the MPEM and not the water regulator or any other issue related to the engine or rave valves. My first thought was I guess I will have to raise the rev limit. I'm not positive this is the issue after putting some thought into this and reading through some of MATT BRALEY's ignition timing education posts. The Arieltek MPEM is supposed to come out of the box set at 7200 (same as factory) so I didn't program or mess with the rev limiter. After thinking about this and having a better understanding of timing advance and delay, I'm starting to assume that I have the timing delayed too much (loss of power on top). Piston is already traveling down when the fuel is fully ignited.

Back to yesterday's lake day trial. I did NOT bring the simple instructions with me so I didn't know how to program the rev limit. I really didn't want to open up the grey box on the water and re-program the ignition curve because I was already starting to think that the #7 on my case is actually a #1 and wanted to run this by you guys first. Essentially, can Matt or any of the other pros here confirm what I'm thinking? I'm thinking that my ignition timing was giving me the lack of top end. Below 6100rpm the ski seemed to be running fine as it has the two years I've owned it. Since we didn't want to call it a day I just kept my trigger finger off of the throttle at WOT so we didn't bounce off the rev limiter all day and hurt the engine. At 6100rpm it sounds just like a TWO STEP on a turbo application lol I know for a fact it's the rev limiter but again, could the ignition timing being delayed 3 or 4° make it lose power on top and give a false rev limiter situation? I want to do this the correct way and not raise the rev limit to 8 or 9k. The EIN #1 corresponds to 0° and if my EIN is actually a #4 then it would correspond to 1° of advance so basically I'm thinking I'm about 3 or 4° delayed too much. I have read a post where Matt describes using the EIN #2 designation to get 3° advance timing without detonation or engine heat building. Because I obviously don't want to destroy the engine should I just try to increase my timing advance one degree until the ski starts running normal at WOT or go straight to 3° correction and see what that does for me?

Sorry for the lengthy post, I only strive to be as descriptive as possible not to confuse anyone and for you guys to get a better understanding of what I'm describing. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to take some time out of their day and give a fellow Seadoo lover some advice and to anyone that has already helped out. Seadoo forum FTW!

-Joe
 
If you want to know where the timing is there's a way but a little tedious. You need a dial indicator for the mag spark plug hole and fab a pointer out of thin aluminum or even a solid copper wire (like ROMEX for a house) and sharpen one end and make a loop on the other end to go under a screw/bolt temporarily with the pointed end right next to the pto. Then rotate the crank, try to find absolute TDC, when you get close zero the indicator, then rotate crank backwards then forward slowly, and stop at an indicated depth that is about 1/2 inch BTDC and make a mark on the pto at the pointer, use something that makes a very thin mark like an XACTO knife point. Now continue rotating crank past TDC till you get to the SAME indicated depth ATDC and mark it. Now if you measure the distance between BTDC and ATDC and (by measuring or what ever you feel gives a good indication) mark exactly in between your 2 marks (BTDC and ATDC) and you will have the exact TDC. The reason you do it this way is when the crank pin is real close to TDC your depth indicator will move very little because the pin is moving horizontal so you measure equal distance before and after TDC and use the exact middle between your marks. I know, long and drawn out but you will always be able to find TDC on any reciprocating engine when accuracy is paramount. Use a degree wheel and scribe lines at the degrees you will use and use an old school timing light to check initial advance at low RPM and total advance somewhere up towards rev limit. You can see the timing advance watching marks. If you have a PTO the same diameter as a 96 XP 800 I have notation in my reference folder of the Thousandths to Degrees in crank rotation, it changes as you go from TDC to 90 deg. to get you close and familiar trying to get your head around this text but it makes way more sense once you do it. Lee

The marks are 2 deg

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And here's old school, 96 West Coast graphics

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I have seen a lot of negative write ups about those aftermarket MPEM's. It could be a faulty part so don't rule that out. Yes I would advance the timing just to see how it runs but I always get high test fuel and don't run around with the throttle pinned all the time.

The ignition timing being too far retarded will make the engine run hotter and the performance suffers as well. It will feel doggy and not sound good and healthy like it just wants to keep pulling. It will NOT kick in a rev limiter style ignition miss though. Thanks for the kind words.

RU- that's an awesome ski and some solid advice!
 
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