97 GTI breaking up over half throttle

Status
Not open for further replies.

nuckfutz

New Member
Hi I found you guys while trying to get some information on a ski I recently inherited. It is a 97 Seadoo GTI. My dad had some work done (the common hole in the exhaust problem from what I can tell) and never got it back onto the water before he passsed away in November.

I took it out last weekend and it fired right up but then when I started trying to run it it would start breaking up and surging in power over half throttle. I took it back home and tried troubleshooting while flushing it out. Over half throttle it seems to be backfiring out the carb, I get pops and quick puffs of smoke. I was trying to feel around for leaks (both exhaust and water) and discovered a slight leak that seemed to be coming from the exhaust manifold right under the rear cylinder. Since the manifold bolts were such a joy to try to remove we decided to pull the engine out of the ski to remove and inspect.

After pulling out the engine I noticed the spring on the oil injection lever was not engaged properly and so the lever was not retuning all the way back (we may or may not have caused that trying to remove the carb. We could not quite locate any leak other than we saw small drips coming from the manifold where it connects to the rear jug but no break in the gasket.

Can anyone tell me what the minimum compression is for these engines. I did a compression test and get 130psi on each and was wondering since I now have the engine out I just go ahead try to improve compression before putting the engine back in. What would be my best option? I am guessing full top end rebuild kit.

Also after doing some research here and other places on the internet I have realized I have the old grey fuel lines (which I might as well replace at this point) and will be ordering a carb rebuild kit.

Are there any other things I should look into while I have the engine out?
 
I hate to sound like a broken record here but this also sounds fuel related... especially if you have the grey lines still..

while you have the carbs off, Take the four screws out on the fuel pump side of each carb. Look inside and you will see a small black plastic ring. Grab hold of that and pull it out. It is the fuel filter and I bet it is full of black gooey junk.

These are in both carbs. You can clean them with carb cleaner and a q-tip or get a carb kit and re-build the carbs.
 
Yes I had planned rebuilding the carb since I do not know the whole history of the ski (ounce of prevention or something like that :)) just curious on the compression and anything else that would be more beneficial to check while the engine is out of the ski.
 
sorry, I forgot to address that part of the question...

If you have 130 on both cylinders you are fine... you are looking for a variance in the two cyls + or - 5 psi is good more than that indicates a problem. Like 130 124 would be bordering bad.

or under 100 on both. the 130 range and that they are the same says it is fine...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the info. I was looking around and noticed in another thread that resistor plugs were also a requirement? Something about the CDI module. I believe the ski has BP8ES plugs which I believe is non resistor rather than BR8ES. Might also be part of the problem.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Plugs....

I haven't read into your problem, seems "All Things Custom" is doing a fine job, but your plug requirements are suppose to be BR8ES with a gap of .020 - .024 in.....if you gap metrically, it's .5-.6 mm..........:cheers:
P.S....your ignition system is the Digital CDI with a magneto output of 160 watts at 6000 rpm or 4 amps at 2000 rpm.
 
OK I pulled the filter in the carb and yes there was black gunk all in it. I also noticed some residue inside the carb so ordering a rebuild kit and will rebuild it.

My next question is on the fuel lines. One of the postings that I read (which I can't seem to find now) said to get about 5 feet of fuel line to fix it. Well... 5 feet will replace from the Main fuel filter at the fron of the ski to the carb and then the 5-6 inches of line from the pulse port to the fitting on the block (not sure what it is). Should I also change the return lines and selector valve lines as well?
 
yes it is recomended that all of the lines be changed that carry fuel.

What is happening is the lines are breaking down from the inside and depositing the goo in the filters. If you do not change the vent/return line the gunk will eventually go in the tank and be run through the system and back to the filter again anyway.

Do it right the first time and save from doing it again later... :)
 
The easy way to get the correct amount of fuel line is to measure them and add a few inches just in case you need a little more. Let us know how you make out.

Karl
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top