'97 GTI 717 2T Wet Cylinder Cannot Start - Dirty plugs every time

emosmails

New Member
Hello Everyone,

I have a 97 GTI with 717 Rotax 2T engine.

Initially when I start it takes 3-5 seconds pushing the starter. When it's hot, it takes just 1-2 rotations... within 0.5 seconds.
But yesterday I flipped it upside-down. Then I did the clockwize rotation to flip it back up. But since then - I cannot start it. I rotated the starter a lot without plugs. (Also there are sparks from the cables when I try) I cleaned the plugs many times. (I tried: dirty vs clean plugs - dirty plugs do not make sparks.) When I put them back, it tries to start - I hear 1-2 real ignitions within .5 seconds, then back to just starter rotating the engine... I remove the plugs - they're dirty (oil, gas and maybe water), clean again, put them and the same thing happens again. I did it 10+ times, but it cannot start.

I had a similar problem when I water-flushed without starting the engine, after 2 days and a lot of spark plugs cleaning and trying (with similar results)... finally it started.

I think in the cylinder there are remains of water. Yesterday I tried to put a lot of clean petrol inside from the spark plug holes. Then I rotated without plugs 30 seconds, then the same clean/put/try procedure, but without success.

Now I left it without spark plugs to rest (and mybe dry). I hope next time it will start. Any idea what could be the cause? Am I on the right path? How can I make it start after such thing if it happens in the sea if I'm far away and alone with nobody to pull me back? (I have spare plugs, but with such results, if it gets wet - I have no solution to start it even out of the water.)
 
Your on the right track, when you flipped it, water entered the crankcase via the intake. It’s difficult to start because of the water in their. As for what to do when your out at sea and flip it with no one around to help, other than carrying a spare battery and plugs not sure. When you flip it, there is one way to turn your ski back over to limit the chances of water entering but not sure if that’s clockwise or counterclockwise on yours
 
Your on the right track, when you flipped it, water entered the crankcase via the intake. It’s difficult to start because of the water in their. As for what to do when your out at sea and flip it with no one around to help, other than carrying a spare battery and plugs not sure. When you flip it, there is one way to turn your ski back over to limit the chances of water entering but not sure if that’s clockwise or counterclockwise on yours
Thanks for the help. About the rotation - I have a label on the back. I read it before flipping back.

When it was upside down, the engine was running for about 3-4 seconds. Then I pulled out the key. So I don't think there was a lot of water in the intake. The engine was running normally. Unfortunately I drained about 20-40 liters. With 2 open caps it was draining between 1-2 minutes. The strange thing was that the water doesn't look so much in the hull.

Now there is another problem. As I put half of a liter pure petrol, today I noticed something very unexpected. I 3d printed an extension for my pump for inflatables. The extension enters the hole of the spark plug with a small gap. The first cylinder was blowing away from the gap (as it depends of the positions of the valves). The second one was blowing from the exhaust at the back. There was a terrible smell of petol. It seems at least 200-300 ml petrol entered the exhaust system. Now I'm affraid if I start it, it can be a bomb. The hot gases can ignite that thing... I don't know how are the valves but if they're not extremely good, it very possible to ingnite the exhaust.

The only solution for now is to run the pump for 1 more hour and hope there will be no smell. The pump can dry the cylinder for 4-5 minutes.
If that cannot help, I need to do a flush with engine off!... And then dry again...
 

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These engines don't have valves.
You aren't going to get anywhere with that air pump down the sparkplug holes.

You need to ground the plug wires on the provided post and crank the engine over to get all the water and fuel out.

Also yo should not have dumped a bunch of fuel down the holes and you are correct it is in the exhaust and waterbox. If it ignites you will blow the rubber couplers off and baybe the waterbox.
 
Thank you all for the help.

So to recap it seems the only solution is to: (I'll try today)
1. Flush a lot (let's say 30-50 liters will be enough to move out the lighter petrol from the waterbox)
2. Crank while flushing
*. Crank without spark plugs if I cannot crank (water inside)
3. Crank without flushing
4. Use the pump again to dry the cylinders.
5. Try to start.

About water in the fuel is it possible at all? When I tightly close the fuel cap, the next day I got pressure when I open it. It was upside down no more than 15-20 seconds.
I suspect it could be some water remains in the intake system. I crancked a lot, but it's still possible to have some moisture.

Yesterday after drying, I tried to crank with spark plugs. They do not get wet. Just a little dirty but it could be from the burning mix. (I forgot the fuel switch)

The rubber couplers are so hard. I tried to remove one (engine side), but it's like iron. So if I blow something I suspect it will be the waterbox. The purpose of my try was ventilation and today when I try to start not to blow the waterbox, but I failed as I do not want to tear the rubber coupler.

I attach the 3D model for the dryer that I created. I created a threaded one to force the stream thru the exhaust, but I'll try it today if it fits. I can attach it only when I try if it works. My pump outer diameter is exactly 31mm and it fits perfectly.
 

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The drying process was great. It's running again! The second threaded extension is perfect. I'm uploading the picture and STL 3D file to print.
 

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