97 GTI 5A FUSE BLOWN NO BEEP NO CONSOLE REACTION WITHOUT KEY

[skidooguy]

I'll first start by saying that I boosted the seadoo with my truck battery from my 2005 Dodge Ram. Having done it before I never had an issue, but now I realize that the sticker on the back of the seadoo is to prevent the now electrical problem I have and not the possibility of blowing yourself up from gas fumes.

Having read some of the threads here online, I have tested the 5A fuse for continuity to ground and found both ends with no resistance to ground suggesting that the MPEM is blown. On replacing the fuse, it does continue to blow. I then took the connection off the stator as others had suggested that they had found after replacing the MPEM that it was the stator that had the problem. I metered the stator and found it to have infinite resistance between the 2 yellow wires and no reference to ground whatsoever. I did not understand about testing the black or the black with a red stripe on the same connector with 4 wires in total. The fuse does not seem to blow when the stator is disconnected and the DESS key connected which had me confused as to where my problem lies. Once the stator is reconnected the fuse does blow. You sometimes get a minor attempt at a beep when you first put the key on with a new fuse. There is no gas level indication or any console indication when the key is connected. I saw something on there about testing the rectifier, but perhaps I'm going to far. Maybe someone can shed some light on the problem. Thanks!

 

[Chester]

If the 5 amp fuse blows, you need a new MPEM, NOT a stator.

Chester

 

[POPPS]

Chester is correct,,,happened to me years ago,,,blew that fuse so many times,,,checked for shorts everywhere, and the short was/is in the mpem.

 

[CrazyJoe]

I'll first start by saying that I boosted the seadoo with my truck battery from my 2005 Dodge Ram. Having done it before I never had an issue, but now I realize that the sticker on the back of the seadoo is to prevent the now electrical problem I have and not the possibility of blowing yourself up from gas fumes.

Having read some of the threads here online, I have tested the 5A fuse for continuity to ground and found both ends with no resistance to ground suggesting that the MPEM is blown. On replacing the fuse, it does continue to blow. I then took the connection off the stator as others had suggested that they had found after replacing the MPEM that it was the stator that had the problem. I metered the stator and found it to have infinite resistance between the 2 yellow wires and no reference to ground whatsoever. I did not understand about testing the black or the black with a red stripe on the same connector with 4 wires in total. The fuse does not seem to blow when the stator is disconnected and the DESS key connected which had me confused as to where my problem lies. Once the stator is reconnected the fuse does blow. You sometimes get a minor attempt at a beep when you first put the key on with a new fuse. There is no gas level indication or any console indication when the key is connected. I saw something on there about testing the rectifier, but perhaps I'm going to far. Maybe someone can shed some light on the problem. Thanks!

I have read that removing the red wire to the rectifier , Pull the red wire off the rectifier ...
I pasted his comments.
Seadoo wouldn't initially run clean. Would start and idle perfect, get up on plane and would start missing, cutting out. Initially thought it was carbs since previous owner said it was sitting a while. Rebuilt carbs, fuel lines etc.. same thing but wouldn't even get up on plane. It was like it was hitting rev limiter. Pulled the red wire on the rectifier and ran perfect!

Installed new rectifier, seadoo gets up on plane, idles fine, but above 3500 all the way to WFO, ignition starts cutting in and out. New battery, new plugs...

Pull the red wire off the rectifier, runs absolutely perfect, no hesitations at any speed.

What am I missing here??? Charges perfect with new rectifier/regulator. 14.6V. Metered the yellow phases on the stator, each between themselves 0.8ohms, infinite resistance each phase to ground. Checked the ground plate where the rectifier is bolted, had 0 ohms from it to block, to rectifier housing etc.

Looking forward to hearing some thoughts... I'm left scratching my head.
Kyle

 

[mikidymac]

The rectifier doesn’t typically blow any fuses, it just runs poorly.

 

[skidooguy]

I guess if the MPEM is fried, it's perhaps worth the effort to try and scratch/cutout the epoxy to maybe get to the zener diode that is shorted? Can anyone point out by way of a pic or drawing what area/sector that's to be found in when you turn the unit over? I'd have to go back and search but I know someone did refer to where it was with respect to wiring on the front, but I think a pic of an actual digout or at least an approximate area to scratch away at would be helpful if available. If that fails, then I'll just probably order one of those units that don't care about the DESS function.

 

[CrazyJoe]

atv-plus
on E bay Guarantee them to work!

89$

 

[POPPS]

I have read that removing the red wire to the rectifier , Pull the red wire off the rectifier ...
I pasted his comments.
Seadoo wouldn't initially run clean. Would start and idle perfect, get up on plane and would start missing, cutting out. Initially thought it was carbs since previous owner said it was sitting a while. Rebuilt carbs, fuel lines etc.. same thing but wouldn't even get up on plane. It was like it was hitting rev limiter. Pulled the red wire on the rectifier and ran perfect!

Installed new rectifier, seadoo gets up on plane, idles fine, but above 3500 all the way to WFO, ignition starts cutting in and out. New battery, new plugs...

Pull the red wire off the rectifier, runs absolutely perfect, no hesitations at any speed.

What am I missing here??? Charges perfect with new rectifier/regulator. 14.6V. Metered the yellow phases on the stator, each between themselves 0.8ohms, infinite resistance each phase to ground. Checked the ground plate where the rectifier is bolted, had 0 ohms from it to block, to rectifier housing etc.

Looking forward to hearing some thoughts... I'm left scratching my head.
Kyle

What motor is it,,,if it's 951...then I have one sitting in our yard with the same exact symptoms,,,its small pieces of metal from the starter stuck on the magnets,,,shorting the stator,,,this one runs great with the stator unplugged,,,if it's not a 951,,then kindly disregard my input.

 

[CrazyJoe]

Here is some info that may be useful as I found it on this sight.

Random Sutdowns:

1.Check all fuses.

A.Mpem fuse is blown. Your Mpem may have a shorted diode causing high current draw.
Using a DVOM, check for reverse current flow. (black lead to mpem fuse, red to ground)
If mpem fails test, repair or replace Mpem and program key.

B.Charging fuse is blown. The rectifier has shorted causing it to draw high current.
Check the output of the red wire while the engine is running. If negative or low voltage is
present, replace the rectifer and check the stator wires (yellow, yellow black) for a short to
ground.

C.An accessory fuse is blown. Determine which accessory no longer functions and
troubleshoot the malfunction.

2.Check spark plugs for correct type.

A.Seadoo Magneto ignitions REQUIRE the use of a resitor type plug. That is what the R
in BR9ES on your plugs mean. (not racing) Non-R plugs are often pushed over the counter
at parts stores by accident or carelessness. Use of Non-R plugs will result in voltage spikes,
that will cause random Mpem shutdowns. This is normal operation for the Mpem, it is a
function designed to prevent electric shock of the operater, due to high voltage at the DESS
post.

3.Check all connections

A.Connectors can become corroded and cause intermittent problems. Clean, inspect, and use
white lithium grease to prevent future corrosion. Bombardier uses connectors as ground
busses. They look like a connector with a cap. Remove the cap, and a metal strip will be
present, this is the buss, maintence as neccessary.

B.The DESS "key" is actually a ROM chip. The outer ring on the DESS post provides the chip with
ground. The inner contact connects the Mpem to the ROM chip. Saltwater users may need to
clean these contact points with an eraser, and possibly wipe with a mild lubricant.

4.DESS Post
The DESS post is nothing more than a magnetic switch, and two contacts. The "key" is a
magnet, and a ROM chip encapsulated in a marine kill switch lanyard. The Mpem "reads" the
ROM signature, when it matches one of it's programed signatures, it enables accessories, the
start stop circuit, and ungrounds the ignition circuit.

A.With the "key" on the post, check the continuity from the black to black yellow wires. The
ohm meter should read less than 2 ohms. Tap around the post to ensure the connection
does not break or change.

5.Rectifier/regulator
The rectifer has the job of converting the AC produced by the stator, into regulated 13.5-14.8VDC. Failure of the unit can lead to shorts, or overvoltage. Either may trigger Mpem shutdowns or resets, causing intermittent ignition failure.

A.Check the output of the red wire while the engine is running. If negative or low voltage is
present, replace the rectifer .

B.Static or non-operational tests are not valid due to the regulator circuit.

6.Stator
The stator is the part of the magneto assembly that generates AC power. Shorting can cause
regulator/rectifier failure.

A.Check the yellow to yellow/black wires, they should read .05-6 ohms.


7.Ignition Magneto
The magneto produces the power for the ignition system, completely independent of the
charging/battery system. (not counting the shared ground) The Mpem controlls ignition by
grounding the generator and ignition coil.

A.Measure the black to black/red wires. Ohm meter should read 40-76.


8.Neutral Safety Switch
Located on the bottom of your shifter, this is a normally open switch. If it fails in the open position, RPM will be limited to 3,500 RPM by the Mpem, as it belives the boat is still in neutral. The boat will also start in FWD or Reverse. If the switch fails in the closed position, the Mpem will not allow the starter to engage in any shifter position and will sound 4 beeps.

A.Check the red/white wire at the Mpem to ground. It should read OL or infinate ohms in
neutral, and less than 2 ohms in FWD or REV. If the switch fails, remove the shifter and
inspect the switch. Retest at the switch, same specs, replace if necessary.


9.Start Stop Switch
This is a normally off, on/off switch. Tap around it during testing to ensure the readings do not
change. A stuck switch may cause the starter to remain engauged during engine operation.
The Mpem will remove ignition at that point. If the button remains stuck, you may not be able
to restart the engine.

A.Check the yellow/green/red wire at the Mpem. It should read OL or infinate ohms to
ground. Press and hold the switch, it should read less than 2 ohms to ground.

10. Low battery/batteries.
The mpem will reset if voltage drops below a predetermined threshold. This may happen if
voltage drops during initial starting on a weak battery. The Mpem will reset, and respond to
the start command with one long anoying beep.

Will edit as needed. Best of luck to all.

 

[CrazyJoe]

I would like to share a issue I had and what it was that caused it.

The issue was after 1/2 throttle my motor would miss and run crappy, i for sure thought it was the rectifier , or ignition system .........You know what it was? ..........A bad oring on the fuel filter, as it revved higher it would suck air into the line then into the carb and spit miss under load ....
I found it by watching a video on everything to check on a jetski when you have a miss, The Oring can fall out when you check the filter and fall in between the wall which you wouldn't notice .

 

[POPPS]

Crazy Joe,,,amazing post!