97 challe ger only hitting 6500

[indigobluex]

I bought a 97 challenger. First time out it cavitated horribly but it ran at like 7000 rpm i blew the crank brgs so i replaced the motor impellor carbon ring wear ring and resealed the ride plate. Just took it out it rums good i thought it would be faster out of the hole but im only getting 6500 rpm is this because everythi gs new or do i have another issue. Also it dose t like to idle in water it will idle at 1800 and be fine then quit. What should these boats rev at it was dead calm water with me and a buddy in the boat

 

[Guest_User]

did you rebuild the carbs?
did you clean the Rave`s?
did you use new parts to rebuild the raves?
did you check throttle cable slack or operation?
what exactly did you check before asking what`s wrong?

 

[indigobluex]

The raves move freely and are clean the throttle cables are moving freely and openkng all the way and i didnt rebuild the carbs just opend them up amd cleaned the fuel filters they looked good. And since it idled and ran great on the old motor i figured they were good. Ive noticed that if u rev it out of water its slow to come back down too

 

[Guest_User]

don`t rev it out of the water, they don`t like that.
are the throttle shafts sticking?
are they adjusted correctly? when you installed the new engine, is it timed correctly? did you install the whole electronics from the original engine?

 

[indigobluex]

Throttle shafts move freely and easy no sticking and all the electronics are the original ones from the boat. And i believe its timed right the flysheel amd the rotary wheel were already on it and sealed up. Mayne it is carb related are the seadoo carbs easy to rebuild ive rebuilt many snowmobile carbs but pwc carbs are diffrent

 

[Guest_User]

are the flywheel and stator original to the boat?
anyway, you should double check the carb settings, bolts, correct carb gaskets etc etc. a small air leak will also cause it to rev with no load.

boat carbs are similar to the pwc carbs and easy to rebuild, just be careful you don`t snap any screws when disassembling them. use Mikuni kits and also get new needles and seats.

have the fuel lines been replaced? is the fuel filter new or ok, and is the pulse line to the fuel pump good?

 

[indigobluex]

Thanks ill get rebuild kits and new carb gaskets and give it a whirl. Were are the best place to buy rebuilds and needle and seat. And what are the base settings lo speed 1.5 and high all the way in ? Thanks again

 

[indigobluex]

Fuel filter is new pulse line is new fuel li es are good and not the grey ones and the fluwheel isnt the original to the boat those are still on the motor i pulled out

 

[Guest_User]

I know the MPEM are different between the 97 and 98 challenger 1800`s.
But I`m sure you should have kept the original flywheel and timing cup in it`s original location along with the stator and mounted to your replacement engine. These are married to the MPEM. the timing should be checked to be sure your not to far advanced or retarded.

Racerxxx would know a lot more about this... shoot him a PM.

 

[indigobluex]

Thanks i just sent him a pm

 

[racerxxx]

It could be timing as each engine is different. Only way to check timing is with a BUDS or Candoo programmer. If you have your old engine look at the top of the arch of the case where the rear engine mount mounts and there should be a number stamped into teh case, like a 2, 4, 6 etc... that is the timing. See what your old and new engine are. I'll try to post a pic.

 

[racerxxx]

You can see this case is a 7, I have another that is a 6, another that is a 5 and another that is a possibly a 1(hard to read filled with paint), So if that was a 1 and I put it in a ski that was timed to a 7 it might not run 100%.

Not saying this is the case, but something that needs to be looked at.



Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[Guest_User]

^^^ yes, but also keep in mind that the mark on the PTO is no longer valid. as the PTO tightens from years of use, the mark changes/rotates. and if you used the original PTO from the old engine, the marks wouldn`t work as well..

so you need a dial indicator to measure the rotating/drop at the piston crown and make a new mark at a fixed point as in a tab or cover.

best thing to do is download a shop/service manual to see the procedure... it`s easy, you just need to do it correctly.

to check the timing you can use an automotive light, if your automotive timing light has advance/retard feature you could easily see how much it is off if any in either direction.

but as Racerxxx suggested you`ll need a programer to actually change the setting in the MPEM...


you very well could reach 7k with a fresh carb service, clean Raves, I`d replace the bellows and pistons if it were me bc they harden and keep a memory if they are old. BUT!!! if your timing is off you smoke an engine for sure...

 

[indigobluex]

Ok my bad guys i used the stator cover and the magnet cup from the old motor but not the fly wheel. The new mktor had the fly wheel already on it i just swaped cups and stator cover and i lined up the cup. With the dot in fly wheel like the old one. Ill look at the motor numbers

 

[indigobluex]

Ill get new bellows and pistons on the way is any place better or worse to get them from

 

[indigobluex]

One other thing that might might not be relavant when i put the pump on w new wear ring and impeller the boat wouldnt turn over i pulled the plugs and then it slowly cranked over then sped up. I put the plugs in and it fired. Any chance the new impeller and wear ri g are just boging it down till they wear in its a seadoo imp and wear ring

 

[Guest_User]

to speak frankly, this is where you need to sit down and read the forum. the many threads on all of these crafts/boats tell the procedure and tips when having issues like this... but to answer your question, soapy water, glass cleaner, some use WD40, etc etc you spray it in the pump wear ring/impeller area and turn the engine over, this helps the impeller cut into a new wear ring otherwise your killing your starter, solenoid and cables...

also with the plastic pump they NEED to be tightened down properly and torqued to spec so they don`t warp/twist/deform if not done right...

 

[indigobluex]

Awesome ok guys im gonna put some hrs in reading thanks alot

 

[Guest_User]

a shameless plug, but a good start would be here: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...1800-Restoration-Project-quot-Reel-Swell-quot

 

[indigobluex]

Pale rider dang man i give ya credit ida sank the boat from frustration long ago nice job on the restore project

 

[Guest_User]

Pale rider dang man i give ya credit ida sank the boat from frustration long ago nice job on the restore project

Thanks! Nah, I came from SeaPoo changed camps to Yamaha, then back to seapoo and been around a few boats. I was new to the 787 so just had to learn about them so for me it was fun, the sad part was getting burnt by someone I knew...
now, it`s a good boat in better hands... lol...

 

[indigobluex]

After doin alot of reading last night and checking things over i fou d that my throttle isnt opening 100% its goin all but a inch if i adjust the cable so it goes wot then it dosent seem to close the butterflies all the way seems like its one way or the other

 

[Guest_User]

then something is wrong. when the stick is at full throttle you should adjust for a little slack so you don`t break the cable or carb linkage. the throttle should always close fully when returning to idle. you have something wrong going on...

 

[indigobluex]

Are there adjustments under the throttle lever its almost like it dose t have enuff throw i have to pull the lever to tighten up the friction screw too. I found a few threads regarding this same issue but no one ever posted what the fix was

 

[racerxxx]

Yes there are adjustments under the throttle lever if you pull the control handle out from the boat. you will NOT be able to fully remove it so be careful!!!! You will how ever be able to get to the adjustments. I think it's an L plate with two nuts that lock it to the L plate. You will need two 10mm open end wrenches to loosen the nuts IIRC.