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96 xp issues?
- Thread starter Ktmguy23
- Start date
- Status
Welcome to the seadoo forum ktmguy23. It sounds like you have 3 problems.
Here is some information on the VTS;
Always confirm that the fuse is in good condition. The7.5 amp fuse is in the MPEM module. Check the motor with a multimeter. Install the test probes on both the Blue/Orange and the Green/ Orange wires. Resistance should be close to 1.5 ohm.
If the motor seems to jam and it hasn’t reached the end of its stroke, the following test could be performed.
Remove the motor from the VTS. Manually rotate worm gear to verify the VTS for free operation. Connect it directly through a 15 amp fuse to a 12 volt battery. Connect wires one way, and then switch the polarity of the wires to see it work in the other direction. If it does run in both directions it could be the VTS module. If the VTS motor does not stop at the end of its stroke then the motor could be defective.
The VTS module receives it current from a 7.5 amp fuse in the MPEM.
Disconnect the Brown/Black wire and the Brown/White wire from the VTS module. Connect the probes of the multimeter to the 2 wires of the module. Push the start stop button to activate the MPEM timer,(gives power for 33 sec. without running engine). Push the VTS switch down position until motor stops. The ohm resistance reading should be 24 ohms+-1%. Push the switch button up until the motor stops and the resistance should be 167ohms+-1%. This test isn’t perfect but it should be close.
Here is some information on the fuel guage;
Checking sending unit resistance
You need to check the Pink and Pink/Black wire coming out of the baffle tube in the gas tank. The sending unit works off resistance. Pull the plug apart at the tank, and use an ohm meter to check for resistance between the two pink wires. The resistance will be different depending on how much fuel is in the fuel tank. If you get no resistance, remove the clamps off the sender, and pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. Check the magnets on the float in the sending unit. To get to the float out, pop the bottom off and look for the 4 magnets on the float. If they are missing use a strong magnet to get them out of the tank bottom. If they are dirty clean them and re-insert it back in the baffle tube and check the wires again to check for readings of resistance depending on where the float is in the baffle tube. Check the float to see if it “floats” in a cup of gas. Sometimes the float becomes saturated and won’t float in gas…but it will in water, so use gas to check it. If still no reading of resistance replace the sender. If you get readings, check continuity of wiring to guage. At the baffle you could un plug the guage and using a jumper wire between the 2 wires in the plug on the guage side. Attach the lanyard to power up the guage. If the guage goes to full the guage is good. If it still doesn’t respond, do a continuity test of the wires to the guage. If all wiring checks out ok, and the guage still doesn’t respond, the guage is bad.
To test the oil sending light with the sender unplugged it will indicate a red light. If it is plugged in and working , the light will go out until the level allows the sender to be activated. I would just check the connection first. If if seems ok than the sender is bad. You can get parts from the "parts "link at the top of the page.
Keep us posted on you progress.
Karl
Here is some information on the VTS;
Always confirm that the fuse is in good condition. The7.5 amp fuse is in the MPEM module. Check the motor with a multimeter. Install the test probes on both the Blue/Orange and the Green/ Orange wires. Resistance should be close to 1.5 ohm.
If the motor seems to jam and it hasn’t reached the end of its stroke, the following test could be performed.
Remove the motor from the VTS. Manually rotate worm gear to verify the VTS for free operation. Connect it directly through a 15 amp fuse to a 12 volt battery. Connect wires one way, and then switch the polarity of the wires to see it work in the other direction. If it does run in both directions it could be the VTS module. If the VTS motor does not stop at the end of its stroke then the motor could be defective.
The VTS module receives it current from a 7.5 amp fuse in the MPEM.
Disconnect the Brown/Black wire and the Brown/White wire from the VTS module. Connect the probes of the multimeter to the 2 wires of the module. Push the start stop button to activate the MPEM timer,(gives power for 33 sec. without running engine). Push the VTS switch down position until motor stops. The ohm resistance reading should be 24 ohms+-1%. Push the switch button up until the motor stops and the resistance should be 167ohms+-1%. This test isn’t perfect but it should be close.
Here is some information on the fuel guage;
Checking sending unit resistance
You need to check the Pink and Pink/Black wire coming out of the baffle tube in the gas tank. The sending unit works off resistance. Pull the plug apart at the tank, and use an ohm meter to check for resistance between the two pink wires. The resistance will be different depending on how much fuel is in the fuel tank. If you get no resistance, remove the clamps off the sender, and pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. Check the magnets on the float in the sending unit. To get to the float out, pop the bottom off and look for the 4 magnets on the float. If they are missing use a strong magnet to get them out of the tank bottom. If they are dirty clean them and re-insert it back in the baffle tube and check the wires again to check for readings of resistance depending on where the float is in the baffle tube. Check the float to see if it “floats” in a cup of gas. Sometimes the float becomes saturated and won’t float in gas…but it will in water, so use gas to check it. If still no reading of resistance replace the sender. If you get readings, check continuity of wiring to guage. At the baffle you could un plug the guage and using a jumper wire between the 2 wires in the plug on the guage side. Attach the lanyard to power up the guage. If the guage goes to full the guage is good. If it still doesn’t respond, do a continuity test of the wires to the guage. If all wiring checks out ok, and the guage still doesn’t respond, the guage is bad.
To test the oil sending light with the sender unplugged it will indicate a red light. If it is plugged in and working , the light will go out until the level allows the sender to be activated. I would just check the connection first. If if seems ok than the sender is bad. You can get parts from the "parts "link at the top of the page.
Keep us posted on you progress.
Karl
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