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96 XP cavitation after pump rebuild and catastopic running idle

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claysimo

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So where to start.. about 2 months ago I bought a 96 seadoo xp that was running but needed a lot of attention. It has good compression in both cylinders (148 and 149)and was able to go about 49mph max so I knew something wasn't perfect. I first got a carb rebuild kit (don't even get me started on that Amazon crap vs oem) and without knowing much about carbs I rebuilt using the aftermarket kit and replaced all the fuel lines, put in new filter and fuel selector valve. I was able to get it running ok after the carb rebuild after a lot of tuneing essentially had to give it a little choke to get it past 1/4 throttle and then you were fine. We will come back to the carb..
While out on a test run I was almost back to the dock and had my boat suddenly fill with water and long story short the impeller shaft had broken off inside the impeller (say goodbye to that impeller).. so then the spending rebuilding really got going. I got a solas imleller new bearings for the pump and a shaft. Also got a new carbon ring and all those parts since I was taking it out. So upon getting everything out im examining the skid plate hull ring and notice there was a ton of wear in the metal of the hull ring part of the skid plate.. so I ended up getting one of those too thank God for everyone parting these things out on eBay. It appeared after taking my wear ring out that the rednecks who owned it before me had put in a ring that was almost an inch short. I thought that for sure is what caused the grinding in the skid plate. So I replaced everything in the pump (pushing out bearings without tool is haard) and sealed it off with loctite and put in new oil. I then tackled cleaning and installing the new to me skid plate/hull ring and neoprene seal and lathered with black gasket maker under everything. Put the pump and nozzle back on and brought the ski with me to the beach to continue working on getting the carb right. I put in at the bay and after a few days of adjusting the carb going back and forth to the bay I was able to get the ski to hit 56mph! When taking it out after running it at top speed for about an hour I was hosing off the xp and I like to run it for a few seconds to push all that salt water out from the bay. Upon starting the ski i had what I belive is called runaway idle occur when I revved the engine just a bit. It pretty much pegged out at full throttle for a solid minute... so traumatic let me tell you. Pulling the lanyard spark plugs and negative terminal off the battery did nothing to stop the engine. In hindsight I could've plugged up the carb intake holes or install and battery kill switch.. whatever the issue happened and I was certain I had messed something up. So I first took it and checked compression which surprisingly hadn't changed then I changed plugs and decided to go put it back in the water to see if it would run. It ran but felt not quite right. We just got home from the trip and I took it out to the lake today to do a test. After a few minutes of mild cavitation the ski got worse and now won't go over idle.. the engine will rev and you can feel it spinning the impeller hard. Im thinking I killed the wear ring and the carbon ring.. upon examining everything from underneath visually looking through grate it appears that my impeller might be grinding into the hull skid plate again...... ahh has anyone had any issues with this too? Could running idle out of water caused this? I'm going to take the pump off again I guess tomorrow and see what looks worn. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Even if you disconnected the battery, the motor would still "run away,,,auto ignition",,,you have a very lean condition in the carbs,,,or the fuel delivery system,,,
You are not the only person that has happened to.
You may have overheated the motor, partial seizure (.check thru the pto rav valve port for scoring),
The pump issue,,,rarely does an Xp have to have the ride plate removed and resealed...never to this day have I had to do that job.
It could be that when you put the prop on you locked up the thrust washer.
All that high idle when it ran away may have melted your carbon ring and or the bellows.
Hopefully you have not scored a piston,,,look at the plugs,,,if one if them has gray on it,,,then you have scored that piston.
If you have gray fuel lines,,,then no doubt that is the culprit.
 
I have had a few of the issues you listed.. for example not going over 1/4 throttle, running fine then did the weird shit out of no where lol, and the runaway idle but mine went down fast and pulling key shut it off lol check out my "Another SeaDoo Issue :)" on recent post maybe we can help eachother.. i think mine is the rectifier which i will check tomorrow...

looks like the grey fuel lines is what every one is saying to.. let me replace those tomorrow and stop bullshitting
 
Even if you disconnected the battery, the motor would still "run away,,,auto ignition",,,you have a very lean condition in the carbs,,,or the fuel delivery system,,,
You are not the only person that has happened to.
You may have overheated the motor, partial seizure (.check thru the pto rav valve port for scoring),
The pump issue,,,rarely does an Xp have to have the ride plate removed and resealed...never to this day have I had to do that job.
It could be that when you put the prop on you locked up the thrust washer.
All that high idle when it ran away may have melted your carbon ring and or the bellows.
Hopefully you have not scored a piston,,,look at the plugs,,,if one if them has gray on it,,,then you have scored that piston.
If you have gray fuel lines,,,then no doubt that is the culprit.
Yep sadly aware of what that crap Amazon carb rebuild kit may have caused me. Will try to order new kit from osd if it will let me. Was hoping to redo it during the winter. I did already change out all the fuel everything lines selector and even took tank out to clean it and install new baffle.
Back to the cavitation as I seem to have gotten the lean issue somewhat handled. So my compression is still good and my plugs don't look bad and also I drove it today with the seat off and cover off the carbon ring to see if it was spinning like it should and it appears to be working good (but haven't looked at it before the runaway idle). My carbon ring doesnt sit perfect but no water appears to be coming through so its probably ok.. Ill check the rav valves for scoring in the AM and double check the new plugs after today's ride. Thd amount of cavitation im having is so extreme i can't get past idle though.. i thought maybe I wore out the wear ring already or caused some issue in the pump. Hopefully I can get all that back off tomorrow as well to check.
Yea putting in a new skid plate ring was not planned at all. Actually I was about to put the new neoprene seal on there when I noticed like a half inch of it was cut out from i would assume the impeller over time. The old wear ring was literally 8/10ths of an inch shorter than the new one that I put on. I'm really surprised it wasn't cavitating noticeably then. Certainly wasn't running efficiently but still could go 48.. could maybe the shaft/engine be out of allign causing this? When I had it off the shaft appeared in good shape. And it ran really good minus the lean issue when I got on the water prior to running idle. Now when I push on the shaft from underneath it has a little play in it. It shouldn't move at all right when it's all attached? Gosh why do I always learn everything the hard way
 
Oh and today for a short while it drove up to 53 was having trouble getting up to speed but then it got there. I then tested the rectifier unplugging its red wire and driving with nothing improving so I plugged it back all up and rode again. That's when the cavitation was so bad it couldn't get past idle. Thanks so much for even reading all this crap to this point. I just wanted to make sure I'm giving all the details.
 
I'm going to check the splines in the flywheel too as I saw Dr Honda mention that might cause it in a different thread.
 
Shooting from the hip, I bet you glazed the carbon ring when the engine ran away on you and now it is sucking air through the carbon seal into the jet pump.

I'd start with changing the carbon ring, or even before that you can try sliding the bellows forward on the thru-hull fitting and tighten the clamp back down to put extra pressure on the carbon seal
 
Soo after taking the pump off it was pretty obvious something wasn't right inside. My impeller was able to slide forward and back about a half inch. After taking nozzle off it looks like my nose cone had blown out the side by O ring and all my oil had been lost.... if that had happened before the runaway idle I bet it just fried everything when it ran away like that. Definitely going to need another pump rebuild and new nose cone. Arg there goes another 200 bucks. Luckily my new solas impeller didn't get to beat up from all this to bad. Just a minor ding on one fins end probably from grinding in hull ring. Still urchs me.
You can see the thrust washer is no more and the actual metal from the impeller shaft is warped out. Crazy I wasn't hearing any grinding when it was just having minor cavitation. I would have checked the pump after that runnaway if I hadn't just rebuilt it a few weeks ago to factory specs..
All new parts should be in by end of the week. Maybe I'll have it back together by the weekend. Went ahead and got new carbon ring as well just in case
 

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Even if you disconnected the battery, the motor would still "run away,,,auto ignition",,,you have a very lean condition in the carbs,,,or the fuel delivery system,,,
You are not the only person that has happened to.
You may have overheated the motor, partial seizure (.check thru the pto rav valve port for scoring),
The pump issue,,,rarely does an Xp have to have the ride plate removed and resealed...never to this day have I had to do that job.
It could be that when you put the prop on you locked up the thrust washer.
All that high idle when it ran away may have melted your carbon ring and or the bellows.
Hopefully you have not scored a piston,,,look at the plugs,,,if one if them has gray on it,,,then you have scored that piston.
If you have gray fuel lines,,,then no doubt that is the culprit.
Checked the plugs and they are ok. Also the rav valve i pulled out looks just crazy dirty with carbon. Just cleaned them with a wire brush a few weeks ago. Should it be getting covered with carbon that fast? Might have to do a top end this winter too along with the oem carb rebuild..
 

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Looks like the pump has imploded.. Ordered another pump and shaft/bearings. Round 2..
 

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can anyone confirm the correct direction of the oil filter. Mine appears to have an arrow indicating the flow should be going the other way.. still seems to be getting oil though
 

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It should always be installed with the arrow pointing to the engine. I would get a new filter because f you just turn it around anything that was filtered out will be flushed into your oil pump. Spend $10 and sleep well.
 
check your carbon seal as well. i had same issues as you and my bellow slipped off my carbon seal.. all needs replacing rebuild kit is like $40.
 
It should always be installed with the arrow pointing to the engine. I would get a new filter because f you just turn it around anything that was filtered out will be flushed into your oil pump. Spend $10 and sleep well.
Thanks that's what I thought. The rednecks stuck again. Got one on the way
 
check your carbon seal as well. i had same issues as you and my bellow slipped off my carbon seal.. all needs replacing rebuild kit is like $40.
It doesn't look too bad but I'm not taking any chances it's so cheap. Got another set coming. Hopefully everything will be here by Friday so I can test this weekend
 
got it all on and installed. Tested it out yesterday and got causing at 54 mph after the warm up. Happy I didn't mess up the engine! The worx intake grate definitely helps hold you in the water fyi
 
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