I have 96 XP and got it out for the first time this weekend. It starts quickly and will idle but it doesn't appear to be firing on more than one cylinder. I took it out on the lake and it would just bog out, and would barely move. A couple of times the ski came back to life for a few seconds and would run like normal. We pulled the plugs and cleaned them both up (they were from last fall) and started it again, and did short 1 minute trip and the rear plug was pretty fowled up. The front plug looked just fine. So this has me thinking it is either a bad plug wire or maybe a bad coil. Does this sound like I am going in the right direction?
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96 XP bad coil?
- Thread starter 96XP97SPX
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timmyboy76
New Member
pull carbs and go thru them. Make sure the needles arent stick'n,..also, do compression test, along with carbs, make sure the fuel selectors' clean an dyou dont have grey fuel lines..
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
first easy test, put a spark tester on and test for spark that will tell you if you have a spark issue or another issue.
I did a spark test, and I was getting spark but I couldn't tell if it was consistent. When we first tested I wasn't noticing the spark, and then I tried it a few minutes later after switching to the other cylinder (which is for sure getting spark) it was sparking. So I was thinking it might be intermittent because of a bad wire or coil. I also thought of this because of the two times it ran normal for a few seconds while I was on the lake. I was using the spark plug against a head bolt method, not a traditional spark tester since I didn't have one at the cabin.
So would a fouled carburetor give me the symptoms I describe? I am not really familiar with two strokes being I never owned one until I bought the jet skis. But I figured cleaning the carbs is a cheap way to be sure, and it probably needs to be done anyways.
So would a fouled carburetor give me the symptoms I describe? I am not really familiar with two strokes being I never owned one until I bought the jet skis. But I figured cleaning the carbs is a cheap way to be sure, and it probably needs to be done anyways.
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custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
carbs will not cause a no spark issue
I know the carburetor won't cause the no spark issue, but I know it was hard to see the spark when I did the second time. I am thinking that maybe it was there the first time I missed it. I was questioning whether my symptoms could be carb related, and would I still have oil injection if the carburetor was plugged up? I'll do the compression check as well just to be sure, I can also pick up a proper spark tester as well.
Thanks for the help so far, and I am sure all have more questions once I dig into this more.
Thanks for the help so far, and I am sure all have more questions once I dig into this more.
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
yes a fuel problem would also cause your problem if spark is not a problem, just trying to start with the basics, start with an easy to do spark test (not good to do out in direct sunlight,hard to see) compression test, then if both of those show good then it is time to look into the fuel system, check and see if your fuel lines are grey ( if they are grey then you need to replace them) change your canister fuel filter, pull your carbs and fully clean them or rebuild them as needed.
The reason I am saying to start off with a spark test is we are trying to find the problem before just doing things maybe it is a good idea to rebuild/clean the carbs but if it is a spark problem then it will still be there after you do the carbs, so we are trying to eliminate spark problems first, just as we want to make sure you have good compression before you go any further as well, then if all is good, or that we find it is the carbs/fuel problem then by all means jump right into fixing that fuel problem.......
The reason I am saying to start off with a spark test is we are trying to find the problem before just doing things maybe it is a good idea to rebuild/clean the carbs but if it is a spark problem then it will still be there after you do the carbs, so we are trying to eliminate spark problems first, just as we want to make sure you have good compression before you go any further as well, then if all is good, or that we find it is the carbs/fuel problem then by all means jump right into fixing that fuel problem.......
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Thanks for the advice. I am going to pick up a spark tester and compression tester tonight. Once I have tested those two things (and they aren't the problem I'll dive into the carburetor. I'll also look into the fuel lines, not sure if any of the previous owners switched them out. As far as cleaning the carburetor, what would a full clean be? Same as a rebuild just without the new parts? I was figuring cleaning out the bowl, jets, and replace the internal filter. I'll also do the external filter like mentioned. Just curious, but was does a new carburetor run?
timmyboy76
New Member
pull the plug boots off, and clip the wires 1/4in.
custompartsguy
Well-Known Member
What is it with the stupid plug wires on these ski's? are they just that much junk or because of people not taking care of them?
timmyboy76
New Member
went from red/orange spark to blue/white spark, after clip'n them...i dunno, but all I wanted was a pepsi...:rofl:
Well I compression checked the motor (145/140), spark test (good), and today I cleaned the carbs. I used the flush kit to let it run a little, but I can't tell if it is fixed until I get it into the water tomorrow. It was able to rev up which is something it didn't do in the water, but I failed to check and see if that happened out the water before I did this.
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