96 XP backfire and exhaust head pipe issues, HELP!

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nitiz787

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I have a 96 XP that I purchased this spring and I used a few times, having ALOT of fun. This thing FLIES!!! This is my first pwc and though I'm a shade tree auto mechanic, I'm new to 2-strokes and carbs. During my few excursions I've identified a few issues which resulted in me replacing vts fuse and switch and switch cover, crankcase oil return line and clamps, battery, rectifier, new handlebar grips, and the plate that directs water to impeller (replaced plastic junk piece w aluminum one). I've already purchased black fuel lines but that can hopefully wait till winter.
With that said I've had a recent problem. After completing my last repair, crankcase oil return line, and attaching lower exhaust pipe (yes new brass gasket and red high temp sealant was used) I started it in the garage. Kinda hard to start but did and roared!
Went to local dealer, got new battery and oil and started easier and sounded same, no issues.
Put in water, Lake Erie, and first attempt at starting.... huge backfire! Blew out rubber exhaust hose and took on water :(
Dropped off at same dealer, Cleveland power sports, as I felt it was time for a pro to take over.

Ok thanks for listening here's my question, they say I need to spend 350 to get the exhaust head pipe welded due to corrosion that I never noticed on a freshwater ski. Am I being scammed?

Also, any ideas why it backfired?

Should I get my ski back, and rebuild carbs and replace grey fuel lines w the black, which I was hoping could wait till winter?

Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!
 
Hmm well for 350 you could probably replace the whole exhaust system with a new high performance exhaust, so yeah, they are scamming you it sounds like. The piece that more than likely needs to be welded costs about 15 probably at your local welder or machine shop. It is probably just a freeze plug, they rot on all of these skis of this age. Dealers are a joke. Go get your ski back before they bill you more than what the ski is worth, we will help you fix it!
 
First of all, thank you for replying!
Yes they claim it is a internal water cooling line plug that is corroded so badly the tech easily poked a hole in it from the outside(seemed pretty darn solid to me when playing w exhaust but again I'm learning about pwc).
I also have a spare exhaust head pipe that came w the ski. That one has no apparent corrosion, but again I'm new to this..

I'm trying to piece this mystery together so any and all help is greatly appreciated!

I'm actually looking forward to flying over the front at 60+ mph AGAIN, this thing is scary fast!!!
 
They happen on all of these skis, to charge 350 is a crime. It can easily be fixed by an at home mechanic, heck you could probably get by the rest of the season with a jb weld patch job for the meantime
 
Wow glad I didn't pay for that! Any idea why it backfired and blew the rubber exhaust hose in the water after starting twice on land?
Thanks CReynoldsMIZ!
 
Please please do not wait till winter to do the fuel lines. If you plan on riding more this summer, replace them NOW. I would hate to see you lose the engine on this 96xp over 35$ and a few hours maybe of labor.
 
Please please do not wait till winter to do the fuel lines. If you plan on riding more this summer, replace them NOW. I would hate to see you lose the engine on this 96xp over 35$ and a few hours maybe of labor.

Running lean will DESTROY an engine in short order.

Replace the lines ,,,
 
backfires tend to be the result of a lean condition, which could be caused by clogged fuel systems. if you haven't already done so, at least go through the carbs and clean out the filters. I would go ahead and rebuild them anyway. Be very careful not to disturb the carb needle settings, or remember where they were. Also, you should keep your old carb. springs as putting in new ones will likely alter your pop-off pressure, which would affect fuel delivery. Pop-off is a tuning parameter that must be within a certain spec, but if the ski starts and runs fine now, I would just leave those old springs in there and not worry about replacing them. The reason you want to replace those grey lines is they dissolve with today's fuel additives and clog up your carbs/internal filters.

Another thing that can cause a lean condition is a case leak, but to check that is a whole PITA procedure that I hope you can avoid.
 
HELP! My 787 BACKFIRED!

Built up fuel most likely. After starting it on land, did you use the choke again to start it once in the water?

Sorry for taking so long to respond, I appreciate everyones great info! Was frustrated w it and had other things to f w but over that now.

I would bet that I did. My starting procedure is insert key, turn fuel knob, pull and set choke, press starter button for up to but no longer than 5 seconds, and depress and/or flutter thumb throttle. If it starts, release choke and go! If it doesn't (as it often didn't until I replaced the battery and rectifier) I may release choke and press starter button combined with steady and/or intermittent throttle. After 3 attempts totaling no more than 15 seconds I let it set for about 30 seconds.

As I am new to pwc, I've pieced this procedure together from websites and clymer manual; again, had starting issues since I purchased before replacing rectifier and battery. What would you recommend is best?

I haven't used it since, tried to start or anything. Today removed battery, and will do fuel lines this winter (already have the black ones). Will take the carb off and clean.

Would anything else cause the lean issue besides lines and dirty/clogged carb? (AND hopefully not the case..) Just wondering how long my to-do list is this winter; don't want ANY issues next season!!!

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for ALL the help and info can't wait to ride this again!
 
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