'96 SPX Impeller Shaft Leak

[waterman]

I recently replaced the wear ring on my '96 SPX. Since then it's started leaking just behind the engine between the stationary metal ring (connected to the rubber-boot which in-turn is anchored to the hull via hose clamps) and the washer-type device on the moving part of the impeller shaft. It ONLY leaks at or near full-throttle. At slow or moderate speeds it doesn't seem to leak at all. However, at full throttle it leaks enough to fill the hull with about 5-7 inches of water in about 5 or 10 minutes. I can run all day at slow-moderate speeds and not take on much water at all.

FWIW, the vacuum bilge pump system is working properly. At moderate speeds, when the jet-ski is leveled out, it does a great job of clearing out any water in the hull in about 5 or 10 minutes.

So, in any case, I'm assuming I've broken some kind of seal or mis-aligned something when I removed the impeller assembly. I've got the repair manual, but I can't seem to find anything in there that directly helps me with my current situation.

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[waterman]

To clarify, I've uploaded a picture of the area behind the engine where it's spraying/leaking.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Seals......

That's the carbon ring and carrier seal. There is suppose to be two "0" rings in that carbon ring. You may have lost them, or burn them up if running dry. But, with no water coming in at slower speeds, makes me believe that with the added pressure in your water inlet area to the pump, your building up pressure and its coming in............a bilge pump may be a better idea. I never did like relying on the bailer tubes.......................:cheers:

 

[waterman]

Thanks for the reply, SeadooSnipe! Solved my problem. Looked a little closer at the photograph in the repair manual and noticed there's supposed to be another hose clamp on the oppposite end of the large, rubber boot. Installed one, and presto, I can now run flat out without a hint of a leak! I never removed it when I replaced the impeller, so it's mystery what happened to it.

I've been workin' off and on on this thing for almost 2 months now. It was turned off after its last run about 6-7 years ago without being prepped at all for storage (left outside in the elements). Had to pull/clean the carbs & gas tank, install a new starter, remove/clean the electrical box, pull the impeller (to install a new wear ring), and install a new battery.

Just when I thought I had everything licked, Now I find I'm only getting about 12.7 volts on the battery terminals with the engine running at speed. Guess it's ready for a new rectifier---when will it end

In any case, I do want to send out a special thanks to everyone on this forum who's helped me out the last couple of months, especially with my problem with the starter. Without everyone's help it woulda been a *whole* lot tougher to get through all this

 

[seadoosnipe]

bout there.......!

Well, with all you've done, when you get it "good to go", I bet you'll have several good seasons on it. It does sound like the rectifier went south on ya.

Good luck.............:cheers:

 

[JPX]

I have to wonder why the hose clamp was missing......is the old one somewhere in the hull?

For reference, here is the HX model carbon ring and boot assembly.

 

[waterman]

Same thought crossed my mind. I looked everywhere for the clamp, but it's nowhere to be found. Can't imagine how it came off.

If anyone is interested in the whole saga leading up to this fix of my final leak here it is. The above impeller leak was the last in a long series of leaks after replacing the wear ring. Right after replacing the wear ring I took it out for a quick full-throttle run and everything appeared ok. My girlfriend then took it out for a spin. She was running it flat-out, full throttle for minutes at a time as she usually does, that is . . . until it starting sinking and the over-temp light came on Turned out the old, aging 3/4" hose that goes from the head to the impeller burst filling up the hull with tons of water. So, replaced the hose, but I still had water leaking into the hull. Hhmm?? More looking. Well, apparently after it overheated, two small hoses on the exhaust melted causing a continual spray of water inside the hull. Fixed that and figured my troubles were over. But no, I still had water leaking into the hull---frustrating to say the least. At that point, I walked away from it for a week or two to clear my head. When I got back to it, decided to get serious. I took the seat and air input "tube" off so I could get a nice, new, fresh look at things when I took it out for the next test ride Wow, that thing is LOUD at full-throttle with the seat off---not to mention a bit uncomfortable on the posterior! No if-and-or-buts-about-it, you have to wear ear protection or risk permanent damage if you ride it with the seat off at full-throttle. Anyhow, taking the seat off did the trick. I could easily see the water spraying out of the impeller shaft area behind the engine. So, with that loud, rather uncomfortable ride, I *finally* concluded my search for leaks on my girlfriend's aging, well-used '96 SPX!!

 

[Nate Surveyor]

My Boot it old, dry, cracked, rotten.

What kind of adverse effect does this have?

and,

The owner's (read idiot) manual says to change and check the Jet Pump Oil.
WHERE is the Jet Pump Oil Resivoir? (seems like blinker fluid to me!)

Thanks a ton!

Nate

 

[JPX]

My Boot it old, dry, cracked, rotten.

What kind of adverse effect does this have?!)

You will probably flood the hull of the boat - you may already be filling the hull a little as it is. But it will only get worse. Do not confuse this boot with the VTS boot - which is also a flooding hazard if it too is cracked and leaking.

The owner's (read idiot) manual says to change and check the Jet Pump Oil.
WHERE is the Jet Pump Oil Resivoir? (seems like blinker fluid to me!)

Photo shows the pump assembly (middle) and venturi (bottom). The cone at the tip of the pump assembly contains the oil. Changing it is serious business as it lubricates the bearing for the impeller. It is analagous to maintaining your car's differential oil.

 

[blacked out]

how much play should be in the carbon ring. i can grab it and pull it up and down i am thinking i am getting water in that way

 

[blacked out]

anyone happen to know?

 

[timmyboy76]

yah, up/down can happen, its just flat surface of carbon ring riding against flats on steel coolar. You can loosen up clamp at back of accordian boot, and push it/collapse toward motor, this will put more strain on carbon against the steel collar,...if this helps yua....

 

[blacked out]

so loosen up clamp where it is on the hull

 

[timmyboy76]

yep, and push, much you can, then retighten...:cheers:

 

[blacked out]

ok i will try that thanks

 

[seadoosnipe]

:agree: Correct, the carbon ring will have radial movement, up and down. You want no axial movement. This is where it must remain in contact with the carrier ring.............:cheers:

 

[blacked out]

what should i look for on the carbon ring to know if it is bad