nathan porter
New Member
Hi guys big thanks from Syd Australia. Firstly have to say thanks to the previous guys who I have taken so much advice from regarding the fuel sender /gauge problem. It does seem a common defect.
One time when I was out riding the fuel gauge seemed to be going down like it had a whole in the tank. Do a few jumps and it came good. Next time the same thing but eventually there was no fuel bars showing on the gauge and the fuel light stayed on all the time.
As stated in the fuel/baffle sender repair thread.
I removed the fuel sender/ baffle and checked the float in the fuel, that was all good. I have checked the magnets in the float and they are all good. I did the resistance check of the fuel sender and the Resistance changes as the float moves, that was all good.
I have shorted the pink black/pink wires going to the fuel gauge and hit the start and all I get is a flash of all the 4 warning lights and all the fuel bars light up with this flash for a second and then the fuel light just stays on with no fuel bars. This is the same if I have the lanyard on or off.
I did here if I shorted the wires going to the gauge this would at least stop the red light from coming on but this doesnt seem to work at the moment.
If I go under the nose hatch and follow the fuel gauge wires back to there first plug connection. Its a multi pin connection and I can do a resistance check of the wires going to the fuel gauge. I get about 30 ohms resistance and it just keeps climing. I am no expert with the multimeter but when I select it to the buzzer function when checking for continuity I get the OL which means open circuit. What should the resistance be going to the gauge.
I have checked all the fuses in the waterproof box. And now I have hit a wall.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Nathan
One time when I was out riding the fuel gauge seemed to be going down like it had a whole in the tank. Do a few jumps and it came good. Next time the same thing but eventually there was no fuel bars showing on the gauge and the fuel light stayed on all the time.
As stated in the fuel/baffle sender repair thread.
I removed the fuel sender/ baffle and checked the float in the fuel, that was all good. I have checked the magnets in the float and they are all good. I did the resistance check of the fuel sender and the Resistance changes as the float moves, that was all good.
I have shorted the pink black/pink wires going to the fuel gauge and hit the start and all I get is a flash of all the 4 warning lights and all the fuel bars light up with this flash for a second and then the fuel light just stays on with no fuel bars. This is the same if I have the lanyard on or off.
I did here if I shorted the wires going to the gauge this would at least stop the red light from coming on but this doesnt seem to work at the moment.
If I go under the nose hatch and follow the fuel gauge wires back to there first plug connection. Its a multi pin connection and I can do a resistance check of the wires going to the fuel gauge. I get about 30 ohms resistance and it just keeps climing. I am no expert with the multimeter but when I select it to the buzzer function when checking for continuity I get the OL which means open circuit. What should the resistance be going to the gauge.
I have checked all the fuses in the waterproof box. And now I have hit a wall.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Nathan