96 SP Dying

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sakosky1

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I have a 1995 Seadoo SP. And for most of the summer it was working just fine. The current problem presented itself after the SP was partially submerged. The bilge lines which are usually secured to the side of the inside well above the waterline had detached from the side and lay low enough that it began taking on water when my sister decided to sunbathe on it while it was anchored. By the time that I realized that it was taking on water, there was aprox 6in in the hull (freshwater). I was able to start the ski and run it to drain the hull, but since that incident, I can't go more than 30 or so seconds at full throttle without it dying. I took the below video the day after the incident. I took it out of the water the next day. Since than, I replaced the spark plugs and checked the electrical box for any apparent signs of damage (non found). I took it out once more since then. It made it the 5 minute idle out of the no-wake zone, although it needed a little throttle to maintain idle. It ran fine for about 1 minute at 75-100% throttle and then died the same way that it does in the video, I wasn't able to start it again after that and had to get a tow back to the ramp. Any suggestions on what to look for would be much appreciated.

Thank you!

[video=youtube;GnvBvfcOkSM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnvBvfcOkSM[/video]
 
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On a hunch I ran a compression test, got 110psi PTO, 90psi MAG... so unless the the gauge I was using was shot.... it needs a top end rebuild.

But that still doesn't explain the dying. And I doubt its the fuel as the problem started about 3/4 through a tankfull, so it should have started when i put that fuel in.
 
I would test again with a different gauge. I have seen certain gauges give false readings.

Did you run it as in run on the lake to get the water out or did you pull it out of the water to drain the water out ????
 
None yet, haven't been able to get a hold of another gauge yet. But I took a closer look at the engine yesterday and noticed that the oil line on the MAG side of the intake was broken. I don't think that would cause this weird behavior, but I'll be replacing it soon anyways.

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Hard to tell in the pic but if the oil line cut threw? Is it leaking oil? If so looks like you just found your problem
 
It's not the main feed from the oil tank, just the auxiliary that runs from the bottom of the engine to the front intake just after the carb. But it is completely severed. And it could have possibly allowed the ingress of water.
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those are the oil injection lines. whats happening is your starving the engine of oil and it is locking up. u should really look into a complete rebuild because you crank cant be in good shape after running it with no oil. fyi those little oil lines should be changed every couple of years to avoid this, as long with the bigger oil lines and oil filter.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone. I don't have the time right now to dig into what is looking like a bit of a project. Probably save it for a winter project. I'll update this thread when I tear it apart and confirm what's going on.
 
Warm weather's coming back around, so out come the doo's. I finally got the engine out of the SP and it's seized. I took the head off and didn't see any apparent scoring, but it's not moving, so I could only see the PTO cylinder. Took the rotary valve off and from the intake ports I can see what look like calcified deposits inside. I'm waiting on the flywheel puller tool to get everything apart. I'll update with some pictures when I do. I'm considering getting a rebuilt engine from sbt at this point. But I'll wait until I get it apart.
 
Got the flywheel off and took the bottom off. The state was not encouraging.

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The MAG side has been coated with a rusty clay-like substance and the piston is frozen. I haven't tried to free the piston, and at this point, it looks like it needs a full rebuild. Unless there's a better option that I'm overlooking, a refurbished engine will cost less than doing the rebuild myself. And since I'm trying to get the doo working in time for a vacation in June, a refurbished engine will also save time. If I wasn't rebuilding my car's engine and fixing up my '99 GSX, I might consider rebuilding this one.

I'm replacing the old oil lines and will definitely keep an eye on them in the future.

I am curious how there came to be such a buildup of sediment in the MAG casing, as it must have been building up for some time.




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