96 Sea doo Spi breakdown.

[Mike R]

Took the skis out today, river was a mess, lot of debris floating from storms, should have not gone out, my daughters, 96 sea doo Spi, stopped accelerating, like it sucked up junk, went under, couldn’t reach/find anything in intake, so I towed hers with my 98 Kawasaki stx, which also started to act up, no power, checked intake, didn’t see or able to reach anything, continued to the shore, made it close and it wouldn’t run, got back to shop and noticed the exhaust hose on Kawasaki had a hole blown in it? Going to wait till weather cools off tomorrow to dig into them, any ideas? Do the grates come off easy? What would cause a hole to blow out of exhaust hose, and would that cause the shitting running? I’m thinking it was burning exhaust fumes?
Any input would be greatly appreciated, new to jet skis, bought them last august.
thanks, Mike

 

[POPPS]

Most likely junk in the pump,,,prevented water from being pumped to the cylinders and cooling system,,,which can account for the hole in the coupler,

 

[Mike R]

Most likely junk in the pump,,,prevented water from being pumped to the cylinders and cooling system,,,which can account for the hole in the coupler,

Just got skis up to check the pump, sea doo had a small amount of fishing line on shaft, but not impeller, cut it off, Kawasaki, was clean.
I’m baffled.
Going to drop down tonight or tomorrow and do compression checks, hope all is good on the numbers, then replace the blown out exhaust coupler. And fire up on hose and see if I get water out the pisser and rear. Does that sound like a logical course of action? Or should I be doing other checks first? I attached two pics.

 

[mikidymac]

If your wear ring comes apart in the pump it will also cause poor performance and overheating.

 

[Mike R]

If your wear ring comes apart in the pump it will also cause poor performance and overheating.

Both wear rings look good from underneath, skis are all new to me, should I pull jet pumps off after compression check?

 

[mikidymac]

I wouldn't yet if they look fine from under the ski.

 

[POPPS]

I would ,remove hoses, and blow air into each orifice /fitting,,,then give it a good reverse flush.

 

[Mike R]

I wouldn't yet if they look fine from under the ski.

I cut the fishing line off.
oddly, I thought the Kawasaki needed new impeller/wear ring, it slips like a clutch if you go wot from
Idle, I was assuming that’s it’s cavitation, but It looks alright.

 

[Mike R]

I would ,remove hoses, and blow air into each orifice /fitting,,,then give it a good reverse flush.

So run it on hose will reverse flush?

 

[mikidymac]

So run it on hose will reverse flush?

Yes but make sure the engine is running before turning the water on then water off before the engine is off. You never want the water on with the engine off or you will force water into the cylinders and crankcase.

 

[Mike R]

Yes but make sure the engine is running before turning the water on then water off before the engine is off. You never want the water on with the engine off or you will force water into the cylinders and crankcase.

Yes, first thing I learned on this forum when i bought end of last summer.
thank you, appreciate the help.

 

[Mike R]

Update, compression is at 149/150
Checking hoses and trying to trace coolant hoses, checked carb linkage and I believe the cable going from carb to oil pump is off, ran out of time to remove spark arrestor box and reattach cable, I’m going to assume if that cable breaks or becomes disconnected, it defaults to wide open oil injection, and not shut off oil flow, would that be correct?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, oil pump defaults to wide open oil flow.

 

[Mike R]

Yes, oil pump defaults to wide open oil flow.

Sheww! Thanks, Glad to hear that, and I guess that would cause engine to run bad?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, too much oil and fouling sparkplugs.

 

[Mike R]

Update, reconnected the oil cable from carb to pump, it actually unthreaded from carb end? I threaded back to jamb, and then tightened with two wrenches, which I must not have done tight enough when I rebuilt carbs. I’m hoping the jamb nut did not move, I’m using that as my gauge.
Took a bit, but fired up and clouds of smoke poured out for a good minute, turned water on, i have water coming out back, and water going through clear hoses on top of head, runs as it did before on hose, how long can I safely run on hose to make sure it’s all flushed out?
also what range should head temp be at?

 

[mikidymac]

Only a few minutes as you will overheat the driveshaft seal.

Head temp isn't really measured since it is always getting fresh cold water.

You need to line up the marks on the oil pump lever ad housing. Don't just guess and tighten the cable since you might have too much or not enough oil.

 

[Mike R]

Only a few minutes as you will overheat the driveshaft seal.

Head temp isn't really measured since it is always getting fresh cold water.

You need to line up the marks on the oil pump lever ad housing. Don't just guess and tighten the cable since you might have too much or not enough oil.

Ok, cool, thanks, what is the process for adjusting, and what marks am I looking for? When I did the carbs I made sure the jamb nut never moved so I knew where to adjust to, did not know about Mark’s.

 

[mikidymac]

 

[Mike R]

View attachment 55659

Thank you

View attachment 55659

Thank you, took a pic with phone yesterfday

 

[Mike R]

Miki, using a mirror I checked and it looks like I’m in line, the bleed screw is not horizontal, but I believe that’s the the mark I circled in red, but my eyes are 58 years old!
what ya think?

 

[mikidymac]

I would have to agree with you.

 

[Mike R]

I would have to agree with you.

Thanks, appreciate all the help.