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96 GTX. Rebuilt carbs. Replaced fuel lines. Changed plugs. Idles at 1500 out of water

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Woodstockaz

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Just bought from a pretty good mechanic who rebuilt the carbs. He says he put the adjuster screws and everything back togher JUST THE WAY he took it apart. ie..same amount of turns on screws etc...

I replaced the grey fuel lines, changed the plugs and checked the compression at 130 each sylinder.

It runs great!!

Question: It idles at 1500 RPM on the hose. Should I leave it or adjust the low speed screws for 2500 RPMs???
 
Do not adjust the LOW SPEED screws to adjust the idle speed. Use the idle screw to adjust the idle of both at the same time. The idle screw is close to the throttle cable adjustment.The low speed screws have a pin through them and should be set at 1 1/2 turns,for basic adjustment.Tim is correct on the idle speed.

Karl
 
Took it out!

Took both skiis out today....BLAST!!!!
Wow fun,
But, the Seadoo gave me some issues.
It wouldn't rev up above 4000 RPM making 10 mph, THEN all of a sudden, she would jump like a bat out of heii to 7000 and make 55! She worked great for a while and then kept doing the 4000 rpm clankity clank. I could correct it by shutting it off and restarting a few times and she would go again and usually stay there at WOT, but would cut out and die if left to idle.....

Does this sound like it's getting the wrong mixture? I did notice a fair amount of white smoke...

Also, shouldn't it get up past 55?
 
Sounds like you got two things going on.
Start with the basics first though. When you rebuilt the carbs did you set your low and high speed screws properly? HS screw is 0 turns, LS screw is 1.5turns.
If those are both right the next thing I would do is the idle. The Idle Speed Screw on the mag (front carb) is where you adjust this. Not the mixture screws on the carbs. The idle speed screw is right behind the throttle linkage. Get a mirror and its much easier. Also easier with the airbox off but may still be possible with it on.
Anyway loosen the idle screw til its not touching the adjustment arm.
Then tighten it til it just touches.
Now go two full turns on the screw.
That should set your idle pretty much perfect, just did it on my gtx a few days ago :)

Now the other thing with the rpms I'm not exactly sure about but my friend occasionally runs into this also. We were thinking possibly the rectifier but were not going to worry about it til its unbearable lol.

And as for the speed 55mph is good. My friend has hit 59mph on his gtx on very flat water. But in all honesty the speedos arent very accurate anyway. Good Luck let us know how you make out.
Anthony
 
Make sure the carbs are in sync too. What I would do is when it dies, is unscrew the fuel filler cap and try it again. It sounds like you might have a fuel tank vent line blockage. As far as spedo's go, they are adjustable if you have a GPS reading to be accurate. I have seen some be as much as 10 mph off if not adjusted properly.

I hope this helps.

Karl
 
Awesome. thanks guys. I think the vent is the problem! The lower of the 2 vents that is underwater is totally clogged both ways!
I think that's the culprit....surprisingly since there are 2, but what the heck, it's always something unsuspecting lurking in the hull! LOL.
 
Update! Hmmmm. Ok, so I got a leaking pipe which is being fixed, but in the meantime, I was able to run it long enought to know the following:

Adjusted the low speed screws and idle and the sync seemed good. remember, just had a rebuild and fuel lines replaced.... OK, I got the idle to 3000, BUT when I give it gas, it seems like a rev limiter kicks in just above 3000.
It's like kalaaaanng kalaaaanng kalaaanng etc..... Sounds beefy, just cuts out and jumps back up to 3000-3500 rpm...

Seat off, vents unobstructed, carbs adjusted, lines clean, what the hek right?
 
LOL.. no I ran it before the pipe blew out the sidewall..... It did this to me at the lake last weekend, It would go away if you turned the ski off and restarted and stayed on the throttle. Wel....about 30% of the time anyways....
 
Holy crap! no kidding? Is there a chance that there is an issue with a sensor recognizing wether or not it is in Forward instead of Neutral??
 
Woodstockaz,

Were you able to locate and fix the problem? I am having a similar issue and after all the usualy fuel related fixes I pulled out the 15amp fuse for the rectifier and the ski runs perfect. Try that if you havent had any other luck because mine was doing exactly the same thing. The previous owner told me once in a while he would have to restart it WOT and it would take off and run great. Well ofcourse when I get it in the water the first time I end up restarting 37 times before it would take off and then would suddenly die again.

You can also disconnect the red wire on the rectifier I believe or check the voltage at the battery when running the ski at 5k rpms(this is posted elsewhere). But in my case it charged fine it just malfunctions higher at 3k-4500 rpms.
 
kydd.....I haven't had a chance to get it back in the water. I had to remove the tuned head pipe for repair and have not yet replaced it.

Can you clarify the procedure or provide a link for us?

Also, the fuse. Did you need to replace it because it blew or just remove it??
 
Here is a recent link where KustomKarl psoted how to tecs the rectifier:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=5033&highlight=test+rectifier

My fuse did not blow, and the rectifier seemed to charge the battery fine as I bought the ski two weeks ago, had it in and out of the water every other day and literally was starting it 15-20 times everytime I rode it after performing another fix (ex: fuel filter, carb filters, replaced all grey lines, cleaned RAVES, ect. ect.). Once in awhile it would get past the bog and take off and be okay for anywhere from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.

I simply read somewhere you can disconnect the red wire from the rectifier or depending on the ski, you can pull the 15amp fuse out. When I pulled the fuse it ran great on the trailer and great in the water. Here is the link to my recent post that shows everything I did before the rectifier.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=6408

Goodluck
 
RAVE's.......

Reading your post, I don't see anywhere that you've checked or that anyone has mentioned, you check your RAVE's. The reason I suggest this is because you made the statement that it was hard to get it going, then, once you got over 10 mph and 4k of rpm, it would jump like a "bat out of hell"......
Well, that sounds like the symptoms of your RAVE's sticking open.

This is an annual cleaning, to remove the carbon deposits. If you haven't done this yet, I suggest you look at them. At least the one on the PTO side. It's the easiest to get to. If you see it has a lot of carbon build up, you'll have to clean them both.

Use the search engine on the tool bar and use the keyword.....rave cleaning.:cheers:
 
Here is some info on the RAVE valve;
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.

The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl
 
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