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96 GTX no power

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P Schultz

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OK here goes, I am baffled
new motor, new carb rebuild, new gas, new fuel lines, bypassed fuel switch, cleaned rave valves, starts good, runs all day under 5000 rpm
Craft will not go more then 5000 RPM's, it just drops down. You can start back again, but no faster then that. Someone said electrical - rev limiter. I have a salvage one that I could try.

Summer is ending...please help.....:confused:
 
Welcome to the seadoo forum P Schultz. The rev limiter keeps it from over reeving like when jumping off waves. Are you still running the break-in fuel that's heavy with premix oil? How many hours on the new engine? Are you pre-mixing or using the injector still? Have you tried installing new plugs and are they gaped properly? NGK BR8ES, Gap/ 0.5-0.6mm or .020-.024in.

I'm sure we'll get it running right.

Karl
 
20 Hours on the engine, New gas in the tank, New plugs, I will try gapping them but dont think that's it. Still using injection oil. Carbs set at L-11/2 H-0:confused:
 
are you sure your throttle cable is fully opening then throttles?


did you touch the high idle screws? should be screwed right in to zero i think for your machine

check the rave valve vacuum lines and make they don't have tears, holes, loose.
 
Thanks cnd biker dude,
Yes the Highs are at 0. I will check the throttle cable, but why would it drop off at 5000 rpm's. What you are saying, it would not go any faster then 5K. But my machine cuts right off and dies. I dont see any vacuum lines conected to the rave, just a cap.

Paul
 
Paul your model doesn't have any vacuum lines it is a different system then what he is referring to. It could be the pop off pressure isn't correct. Was the needle valve tab level to the carb body? I use a razor blade as a straight edge to check mine.
Here is some information about pop off pressure...

Pop-off is the measurement of the point where atmospheric pressure overcomes the fuel draw vacuum of the carb. The entire regulator chamber is nothing more than a big check valve. It is the step between the fuel pump, which is providing more pressure than the carb needs to deliver, and the jets, which meter a fixed amount, within a certain pressure range. The regulator chamber is in place to maintain that pressure range.

The whole regulator chamber gets filled with fuel. The fuel is coming from the pump, sits under the diaphragm, and is flowing through the jets. If it was just an open flow, with no needle and seat, the jets would be supplied with too much pressure from the pump. As the fuel is sucked out the jets, the fuel supply in there is drawn out, and the diaphragm goes down with it. As it gets to its low point, it contacts the lever arm, and lifts the needle from the seat. That allows more fuel into the chamber, pushing the diaphragm back up, re-seating the needle and shutting off the flow from the pumps, so the jets aren't over-pressured. This happens many, many times every minute as fuel is consumed.

If the pop-off point is set too low, there isn't enough resistance on the needle to stop the fuel pump flow, and the jets are over-pressurized, giving you a rich condition you will never tune out. The same goes for leaking needles.

If the pop-off is too high, there isn't enough fuel pressure to overcome the vacuum and spring pressure, and you will have hard starts, as the engine is not spinning fast enough o produce enough pulse, to make the pump supply enough pressure to flow the fuel into the regulator chamber.

It is adjusted by changing the size of the N&S, and the spring tension. There are 4 general strengths of springs - the less the spring is rated the lower the pop-off pressure will need to be to unseat the needle. For example, a 65 gram spring may give you a pressure of 15 psi, where a 115 gram spring may give you 50 (not actual numbers).

You test the pressure with a pop-off pressure gauge. With the regulator chamber open, wet the N&S with WD-40 or gas. With the pump body removed, attach the gauge to the fuel inlet fitting on the body. Pump the gauge until it 'pops' noting the pressure gauge. Repeat this 3 times to get a nominal reading. Installing a heavier spring will raise the pressure. To adjust in small increments lower, cut coils 1/2 coil maximum and re-test.

NOTE: You cannot accurately test with the pump body and fuel filter still attached to the carb - you MUST disassemble it and test directly into the fuel inlet orifice, where the fuel filter sets. Otherwise you are testing through the pump check valves, throwing your readings off, too high. If you have an external fuel pump, this does not apply.

Karl
 
Karl,
Whoa, that's alot to absorb. I will get my buddy to help me, he's a motorcity wrench head. You dont think it's electrical? You know the funny thing is that I rebuilt the engine 21/2 years ago and it ran great the first summer, but last summer this started and I didnt ride her. So I started 1 month ago trying to get it running and I am bound to do it. Thanks

Paul
 
Karl,
Here is a tidbit I forgot to mention. I have a salvage GTX, so just for kicks I swapped the carbs and the same darn thing happened, no power at high rpm's and it drops off. You can baby it back up again and again and again.

Paul
 
Yes, it is a lot of information. I like to give as much information as I can. In a nut shell; The tab on the other side of the needle should be level to the carb body. Unless you are running a race modified seadoo, you should be fine being sure it is level.

Karl
 
Here is some information on the RAVE valves too. They should be cleaned annually. If you have never done it it might be a good time to check them.

The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.

The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.


Karl
 
Karl,
Here is a tidbit I forgot to mention. I have a salvage GTX, so just for kicks I swapped the carbs and the same darn thing happened, no power at high rpm's and it drops off. You can baby it back up again and again and again.

Paul

Cool more information...check the RAVE valves.

Karl
 
Paul you could check you rectifier too to eliminate it as a possible problem. Check the battery voltage with a volt meter while you rev the engine a few times. If the voltage goes over 14.5 volts then your rectifier is bad and probably giving you a bad surging condition.

Karl
 
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