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96 challenger rpms drop coming out of the hole then goes back to 7k

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barbermatt

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when i go full throttle coming out of the hull the rpms go to 7k then back to
6k as i plane out they go back to 7k and going down the lake the engine sounds like it drops rpms and then goes right back up slightly not real bad just noticeable maybe 2-300 rpms. just put a new top end on and carb rebuild kits with 155 lbs in the pto and 160 in the mag. and what should the low speed screws be set at and should you open up the high speed screws a little. it starts up great
 
Welcome to the seadoo forum barbermatt. The Problem might be the RAVE valves need cleaning.Here is some info on the RAVES valves;
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.

The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.

As far s the carb adjustments, The High Speed screw is set to "0". These have a plastic cap on them to keep them from being turned any more than 1/4 turn. The Low Speed screw is set to 1 1/2 turns. The screw has a pin through it. If you need to adjust the idle speed do NOT use the low speed screws to adjust it. Use the IDLE Screw to adjust both carbs at the same time. When adjusting the carbs be sure both carbs are in sync.
I hope this info helps you out.

Keep us posted on your progress and if you have any other questions give us a shout.

Karl
 
Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl
 
i cleaned the ralve valves real good and set them flush and i seen just a litle water coming out of the valve on the water box and one of my low speed screws is set at 1 turn and the other is set at 1 1/4 and should i try to turn out the high speed since its bored .5mm over.

Thanks for the quick replys guys thanks
 
Both carbs should be set in sync...(both the same) The Water Flow Regulator might need to be cleaned if it's leaking. I would set the carbs correct and check the Water Reg.Flo. Valve.Water leaking through that hole is a sign that you have blockage in the orifice connector below the regulator. Disconnect the hoses, remember which one goes where, and then un-screw it off the tank. Then, with a wrench, remove the brass fitting. This is the part that will probably be stopped up. Run it and if you need to get more fuel at the top end, than adjust the High speed screw a small amount...maybe about 1/4 to 1/2 turn out ... if the other things didn't help.

You really have some homework to do now...when your done come over to my house and wax my speedster. :rofl:

Karl
 
if you help me get my boat running good i will come and polish it like a new one thanks for all the help and tune it and get back to you as soon as i figure out how to use this forum.

Thanks for the help
 
uh... it is a 08 200 speedster...it is new :rofl: If you need any thing else give us a shout...this is a friendly place with lots of active members eager to help out... Post some pics when you get a chance. It's good to have you aboard.

Karl
 
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