I have 1996 Challenger that is blowing oil out of the RAVE’s. Also lost about 300 RPM (was 7,100 now only 6,800). I replaced RAVE valves, o-rings, boots, caps, springs, etc. just a month ago. Seem to get a little better but after only a couple trips to the lake it is back to doing the same thing. Brand new RAVE valves are also caked with black soot. Compression was like 124 in one and 140 in the other dry, Squirted wd in the low one and it came up to 138. Here are some picks of the cylinders and one so you can see were the oil was coming out by the RAVE vales neat the exhaust manifold. Please tell me what you think about this. Thanks guys.
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96 Challenger 787 blowing oil out of RAVE’s
- Thread starter glenwhitt
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timmyboy76
New Member
what about gaskets. Maybe surface wasn't clean enough??
I do not think so. I rebuilt the RAVE's (boots, o-rings, gaskets) to fix this and it did not stop it. A week later i did the same thing, rebiult RAVE's, and replaced the bases and put in new RAVE valves thinking they may have been wore out. Still blowing oil. I decided to live with it as I wanted to get some riding in this summer. As time went by, about 2 months, It is getting worse. thanks !
Just thought I would follow this up. I have my engine back from the shop, installed it Saturday, and took it out Sunday. No more oil leak on the RAVE's. I think I was just getting so much blow by with the old motor was all. I used all the RAVE parts from before, wd-40 cleaned of course, and problem gone.
BTW: what a differance with the new engine. I used hot rods crank, OEM pistons 1 size over. R&D 43cc head, 163 carbon fiber rotary valve, and carbs rebuilt also. Nice hole shot with the swirl impeller
BTW: what a differance with the new engine. I used hot rods crank, OEM pistons 1 size over. R&D 43cc head, 163 carbon fiber rotary valve, and carbs rebuilt also. Nice hole shot with the swirl impeller
oil leak is back
The leak has returned with only 8 hours on the new motor. It seems it is blowing by the stem, into the rubber boot, and leaking by the screw on cap. I have all new oem parts coming from seadoo now (valves, bases, o rings, boots, etc.) What I have on there now is SBT stuff and I have never been able to make those stop leaking. Will keep you posted in progress.
The leak has returned with only 8 hours on the new motor. It seems it is blowing by the stem, into the rubber boot, and leaking by the screw on cap. I have all new oem parts coming from seadoo now (valves, bases, o rings, boots, etc.) What I have on there now is SBT stuff and I have never been able to make those stop leaking. Will keep you posted in progress.
Gunsrunner
New Member
G'day,
If the tension on the springs holding the bellows on is low it will let small amount of air leek through this will drag the oil (and heat ) through the pin hole that lets the pressure into the bellows.
I have used cable ties to hold my second set of bellows on and so far no problems. Before i had the same issue as you.:cheers:
If the tension on the springs holding the bellows on is low it will let small amount of air leek through this will drag the oil (and heat ) through the pin hole that lets the pressure into the bellows.
I have used cable ties to hold my second set of bellows on and so far no problems. Before i had the same issue as you.:cheers:
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried seperating the spring, cuting 1/8" off of each spring, and then reconnecting them. Cleaned everything and replace with OEM boots and orings I had them left over from early in the year when I first tried getting this to stop. They are all good parts, so I know now, but was replacing things like crazy trying to get this to stop. Well I went out on the lake for a couple hours and they are still leaking.
When you say cable ties is that the same as zip ties? Did the ties fit in the groove in the plastic cap? I am having a problem finding a ties that thin and while being that long to fit around them.
Thanks !
When you say cable ties is that the same as zip ties? Did the ties fit in the groove in the plastic cap? I am having a problem finding a ties that thin and while being that long to fit around them.
Thanks !
Gunsrunner
New Member
Yes zip ties. I should have said i joined two together, just make sure the bits line up where there is enough gap for the valve to move properly
thanks for the info. I will try this and test this weekend. I also have new oem srtuff coming for this. should be here Wednesday. I got new bases, new valves, new boots, new orings, new caps, new springs. everything but the black caps. No probelm with those though. They look great and have no problem adjusting.
6KJR
New Member
I had both mine leaking as well. Took them apart, cleaned them up nice and reinstalled them.. the pto side is still leaking a small amount.. I said to F with it, let it leak and I will try to fix it later. Doesnt seem to change the performance of anything. Might try to order some new parts soon. Where did you order your stuff from?
Mine were doing this as well, and a couple times actually melted the bellows and diaphragms. Never figured out what the problem was because the piston came apart and threw a rod about 2 weeks later.
Not sure if one problem was a precursor to the other or not. Never had a chance to resolve the issue.
New engine runs strong and has none of these issues.
Not sure if one problem was a precursor to the other or not. Never had a chance to resolve the issue.
New engine runs strong and has none of these issues.
I get almost all my oem stuff from Parker Yamaha in Arizona. There a great bunch and have never let me down. The even stock stuff. If they do not have it then they can get it from Canada in two days (Unless there is a customs problem. usually not with the little things, but engine block and the likes will no doubt put a cramp in the time line.)
I will be putting on the all the new Rave goodies tonight. I will use zip ties for this and see what happens. I also have to take off the PTO carb again and put a bigger jet in it. I just put 145's in each the other day but still running lean on the PTO side even with two turns out. The MAG side is out one turn with the 145 and the color is perfect. My mechanic said to use the 148 on the PTO side and then adjust to the same color.
Reason for the jet changes is the use of after market flame arrestor. I will get time agian Saturday to color test the plug and see if the hundreds I just spent in OEM rave valves still leak or not.
Wish me luck
I will be putting on the all the new Rave goodies tonight. I will use zip ties for this and see what happens. I also have to take off the PTO carb again and put a bigger jet in it. I just put 145's in each the other day but still running lean on the PTO side even with two turns out. The MAG side is out one turn with the 145 and the color is perfect. My mechanic said to use the 148 on the PTO side and then adjust to the same color.
Reason for the jet changes is the use of after market flame arrestor. I will get time agian Saturday to color test the plug and see if the hundreds I just spent in OEM rave valves still leak or not.
Wish me luck
all new oem rave setup
Well I have all the new OEM rave goodies on now. I also cut another 1/8" off the spring. I cut an 1/8" off on the last rebuild, last week, an now another 1/8" today. I did this as I am unable to find one or even two zip ties that are thin enough and long enough to get the job done. i went to parts stores and even home depot. Not able to find any so I will use the springs again.
Also swaped the the 145 jet out with the 148 on the PTO carb. Not sure if I will get to the lake tomorrow or Saturday.
Well I have all the new OEM rave goodies on now. I also cut another 1/8" off the spring. I cut an 1/8" off on the last rebuild, last week, an now another 1/8" today. I did this as I am unable to find one or even two zip ties that are thin enough and long enough to get the job done. i went to parts stores and even home depot. Not able to find any so I will use the springs again.
Also swaped the the 145 jet out with the 148 on the PTO carb. Not sure if I will get to the lake tomorrow or Saturday.
all most there
Well I rerplaced all the SBT stuff with new OEM goodies. New rave valves, bases, gaskets, bellows. The caps that fit in the bellows and thge springs that go into the balck cap and hold down the valve are oem and was replaced ealiry this year so I did not replace those. While I was replaceing I also took another 1/8" inch off the bellows reatining spring that wraps arounf the bellows to the screw on cap. This makes a total of 1/4" of shortening now. The leak is alomost gone. After 4 hours of riding yesterday I have just a little oil showing up in my cap. Nothing like before were it would spit all over my manifold and leave a snail trail down my block.
I also had the new 148 jet in the PTO carb. At 2 1/4 out I got some good color from it. Nothing like the MAG carb at one turn with the 145 jey but should be safe anyway. It seems if I turn this out any more, the PTO carb, I get no change. Should I go up one more size on the PTO jet? I already have a 145 in the MAG and a 148 in the PTO. Again the MAG is looking great at 1 turn out. BTW I have PROK flame arresters on my 16 hour old seadoo 800 with a R&D 43cc head and a 163 degree carbon fiber rotary valve. I can only reach 6850 RPM. I may be over propped in my 1996 Challenger with my swirl 14.5/22.5. I get a nice shot out of the hole but she will only pull 6850 rpm on glass, 6800 to 6810 on some mild chop.
I will make seperate post on the jet and RPM/prop question. Thanks guys
Well I rerplaced all the SBT stuff with new OEM goodies. New rave valves, bases, gaskets, bellows. The caps that fit in the bellows and thge springs that go into the balck cap and hold down the valve are oem and was replaced ealiry this year so I did not replace those. While I was replaceing I also took another 1/8" inch off the bellows reatining spring that wraps arounf the bellows to the screw on cap. This makes a total of 1/4" of shortening now. The leak is alomost gone. After 4 hours of riding yesterday I have just a little oil showing up in my cap. Nothing like before were it would spit all over my manifold and leave a snail trail down my block.
I also had the new 148 jet in the PTO carb. At 2 1/4 out I got some good color from it. Nothing like the MAG carb at one turn with the 145 jey but should be safe anyway. It seems if I turn this out any more, the PTO carb, I get no change. Should I go up one more size on the PTO jet? I already have a 145 in the MAG and a 148 in the PTO. Again the MAG is looking great at 1 turn out. BTW I have PROK flame arresters on my 16 hour old seadoo 800 with a R&D 43cc head and a 163 degree carbon fiber rotary valve. I can only reach 6850 RPM. I may be over propped in my 1996 Challenger with my swirl 14.5/22.5. I get a nice shot out of the hole but she will only pull 6850 rpm on glass, 6800 to 6810 on some mild chop.
I will make seperate post on the jet and RPM/prop question. Thanks guys
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