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96 bogs & dies on acceleration
- Thread starter clark
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I'm not sure what problem you are experiencing but here is some information about the Rave Valves. The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly.
Karl
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly.
Karl
96 GTS with 587 engine -- runs fine idling but when I accelerate it bogs and dies. I"ve removed the carburator & cleaned filters, pumps & jets. Is the RAVE behind the manifold that the carb bolts to? I don't know where the exhaust valves you mentioned are...top of engine, side w/carbs, or where? Thanks.
Your model GTS with the 587 does not have RAVE valves. Have you done a compression check yet. The cylinders should ideally have 150 psi in each cylinder. If you not sure how to properly do a compression check let us know and we'll get you in the correct direction.
Karl
Karl
oh boy ...that doesn't look good...re-do the compression check. Here are some pointers. Do it 3 times each cylinder to be sure.
The compression gage should be the screw in type that will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)Screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression guage, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot and there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
If it is still low it might need a set of rings or possible top end rebuild.
Karl
The compression gage should be the screw in type that will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)Screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression guage, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot and there is a problem. I hope this helps you.
If it is still low it might need a set of rings or possible top end rebuild.
Karl
This ski sat for 1 & 1/2 years before we bought it and started working on it. Is it possible the rings are stuck on the piston and will break free? It held at 120 psi and didn't leak down.
If I test this ski in the water with the front at 120 psi and back at 150 psi, will I damage the engine?
If I test this ski in the water with the front at 120 psi and back at 150 psi, will I damage the engine?
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