951 DI Counter Balance Oil

[tkarvelis]

I was wondering, after reading the thread below.

Checking counterbalance oil in 951 DI​

Would it be possible to get a larger brass pipe nipple that would pass oil, 4 mm or so, and run the hose close to the rave valve solenoid. before the check valve, reduce the hose back down to the 3/32 size of the solenoid. Then you could add oil from a "remote dipstick"

My only concern is the engine is leaning to that side. Would you be able to add oil, or could you see the oil if you used the yellow tygon hose?

 

[etemplet]

I doubt anyone ever checks that as there is no easy way and you can't tell the level. I'm gonna put a small Tygon hose on a syringe and suck the oil out then refill with the correct amount. Difficult to get in there. I have a Carb model and I've done DIs and DI is a bit tighter. I wouldn't go through the trouble you are planning. YOu might even cause a problem by putting a nipple on there as it would vibrate and might cause damage if not secured to the engine.

 

[POPPS]

I was wondering, after reading the thread below.

7iig

Checking counterbalance oil in 951 DI​

Would it be possible to get a larger brass pipe nipple that would pass oil, 4 mm or so, and run the hose close to the rave valve solenoid. before the check valve, reduce the hose back down to the 3/32 size of the solenoid. Then you could add oil from a "remote dipstick"

My only concern is the engine is leaning to that side. Would you be able to add oil, or could you see the oil if you used the yellow

that would be a great idea,,being able to replace the oil! ,would save a lot of motors,,,but there is no room at all down there,,,

tygon hose?

 

[etemplet]

that would be a great idea,,being able to replace the oil! ,would save a lot of motors,,,but there is no room at all down there,,,

I agree thats a cool idea having a dipstick for sure. I'll bet a lot of engines are lost because that oil level gets too low. Only nut cases like us would check that. Ha ha

 

[POPPS]

some motors go because after being submerged, water gets in the balancer cavity,, and destroy the bearings

 

[etemplet]

some motors go because after being submerged, water gets in the balancer cavity,, and destroy the bearings

I got a GTX outside that a lady flooded twice while flushing the engine. She told me, "I flush that engine for 20 minutes after we ride. I don't know where all the water is coming from or how it gets into the engine. Seadoo has a bad design." I said, "You run the engine for 20 mimutes out of the water?" She replied, "No I just flush it with the water hose." the next ride out it started making really bad noises.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I got a GTX outside that a lady flooded twice while flushing the engine. She told me, "I flush that engine for 20 minutes after we ride. I don't know where all the water is coming from or how it gets into the engine. Seadoo as a bad design." I said, "You run the engine for 20 mimutes out of the water?" She replied, "No I just flush it with the water hose." the next ride out it started making really bad noises.

Lol, that’s more common then you would think, I stopped to look at a 96 XP at an automotive repair shop, he had ran the hose without it running. I couldn’t convince him that there was probably water in te crankcase now

 

[Grast5150]

I would say your desire to check the oil is not warranted. The 951 DI engine is supposed to have major overhaul every 300 or so hours. The 30W oil which is placed in the counterbalance is more than enough to lubricate until major service. The only reason which Sea-doo recommends changing or even checking is in the case of ski is sunk or major water intrusion (especially salt water) in the hull. I personally think if the ski was sunk it is time for a major service instead of just check the counterbalance oil. I would add the only to reach the oil plug for the counterbalance oil for my sks (2001 GTX DI) is to partially pull the engine as it is fouled by the Fuel Rail and Cooling hoses. So in summary, I do not think you need to check it. Just make sure the hose which catches oil gases is connected and not leaking or broken.

 

[MTEC]

The dipstick idea would be Nice but the shape of the oil reservoir under the cap would make it quite difficult I believe.
A real challenge on my carbed gtx was being able to put the 40ml after sucking the old oil with the engine in the hull. The engine is so much tilted that most of the oil goes out when injecting with the syringe

 

[Grast5150]

The dipstick idea would be Nice but the shape of the oil reservoir under the cap would make it quite difficult I believe.
A real challenge on my carbed gtx was being able to put the 40ml after sucking the old oil with the engine in the hull. The engine is so much tilted that most of the oil goes out when injecting with the syringe

MTEC, you bring up a really good point which did not think of in my original post. The majority of the oil is located in a spot below the fill point. The counterbalance is in the way. The shape of the void where the oil lives is not like an oil pan. As such the majority of oil is in multiple void points and thus a dip stick would never show you the true amount of oil.

 

[EdwinBland]

I’m late to this discussion…
Apologies…
I’m reassembling a 2003 RXDI…
My CB vent has a plug instead of a nipple in it.
Is the vent required? It looks like it’s intended to connect to the line coming from the rave solenoid…per the manual.
I bought this with a “rebuilt” engine … there were tons of air leaks I fixed .. PITA… would like to avoid screwing it up right near the finish…
TIA

Edwin