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95 XP goes click/ no start/ please help

burtshaver2021

Premium Member
Premium Member
So I was putting the last few items back on my XP after redoing the graphics and seat, it turned over maybe half a turn when I pressed the start button, it was pretty glitchy even to make the half turn, I had just charged my 8 year old interstate battery but it read 11.8 volts so I put a brand new interstate that I got for my gsx, still nothing, took the plugs out, pressed start button, still nothing. I can hear a click and only when the lanyard is on, so I think the start button is functional, but I’m not sure, A little back story, while I was sanding it and workin bc on it over the past 3 weeks, I had taken the fuel cap off a few times, most times there was a whoosh sound, this is the part where I kick myself in the ass, is it possible that when I went to start it with the plugs in, it could have been hydro locked on fuel from the dirty pressure relief valve? I didn’t clean that pressure relief valve till after I tried to start. When I took that pressure relief valve off there was a beige creamy substance in the vent hose going to it, anyways please tell me I didn’t damage the motor by hydro locking it on fuel and that I just have some type of electrical issue. The starter had always been a little glitchy so I am hopeful. Where do I start? And if possible please tell me in detail what to do because I have never had to fix anything electrical on these. Should I go straight to the starter and remove it? Or ohm the negative and positive cable ? Looks like I would need to remove the tuned pipe and exhaust manifold to remove the starter?
 
Go in the ebox, if you jump the selenoid does the starter turn over,,? If yes , it’s the selenium, if not, it’s the starter,
Also, load test the battery as well
 
Go in the ebox, if you jump the selenoid does the starter turn over,,? If yes , it’s the selenium, if not, it’s the starter,
Also, load test the battery as well
Thank you Popps, I will give that a try and report back, I did have the volt meter on the battery while trying to crank, although it did not crank the volts only went down 0.1 or 0.2 volts. This is a brand new interstate that starts my other skis so I’m going to rule out the battery
 
Go in the ebox, if you jump the selenoid does the starter turn over,,? If yes , it’s the selenium, if not, it’s the starter,
Also, load test the battery as well
Thank you Popps, I will give that a try and report back, I did have the volt meter on the battery while trying to crank, although it did not crank the volts only went down 0.1 or 0.2 volts. This is a brand new interstate that starts my other skis so I’m going to rule out the battery
Go in the ebox, if you jump the selenoid does the starter turn over,,? If yes , it’s the selenium, if not, it’s the starter,
Also, load test the battery as well
Hey @POPPS ifvit does end up being the starter, you think I would be better off taking the exhaust manifold off in order to get it out?
 
If the starter does turn over it could just be the solenoid, Ive had a couple of those go out on different seadoos.
 
If the starter does turn over it could just be the solenoid, Ive had a couple of those go out on different seadoos.
Thanks @2strokeboy , I will try jumping the solenoid tomorrow, luckily I have an old spare 95XP here that the motor is locked up on so I should have anything I need. Do you know if it’s possible to change the starter on the 95XP without removing any of the exhaust? I will take the one off my parts machine first so I can get a visual of where the bolts are. I’m starting to almost hope it’s the starter so I can rebuild the one I’m taking off, hoping it’s OEM
 
Anyone else been having the “Ooops we ran into a problem issue on here” I’m constantly getting this message telling me to wait whatever amount of seconds. I don’t think I’m the only one as I’ve seen multiple posts and threads that have been posted 3 or 4 times. Anyways, I crossed the solenoid and no go, there was no click when I crossed it, but there is a click when I press the start button so I’m going to go with the solenoid is good, going to try and remove the starter now with the exhaust in, which will be completely blind, I have the parts 95XP which has the tuned pipe off and exhaust manifold off, so that will help me in determining where the bolts are and what size but I’m already thinking the times pipe will need to come off at a minimum
 
I have been having problems too must be having some problems not too sure. My post or reply will post but it still says It didnt piet then i have to wait. Kinda weird hopefully they cab fix that.
 
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So the answer is, yes the starter can be taken off without removing any of the exhaust, a few things that I think make it much easier is 1. Unclip the electrical box so that you can create a little more play in the power cable to the starter, you will see why I’m a minute, 2. Don’t even bother taking the bolt off for the ground to the starter, just leave it on, pull it through and attach it to your new starter. The bolt is 13 mm holding the bracket to the block, it’s easy, the top bolt is 13mm and easy as well, actually visable, the bottom bolt is a bit of a pain to get onto as it’s blind but once you do, easy as well, just pull your socket and extension out very carefully so you don’t drop the bolt in the hull, I’m going to try some kind of wax to hold the bolt in my socket while putting it back in. Once you have the 3 bolts out, pull the starter back to the rear of the ski 3 or 4 inches and then you can see the power wire nut. Installation is going to be reverse, put the power wire on first while visible, put the ground cable in the starter first and fish it through, put the top bolt in all the way but not super tight so the bottom hole is relatively lined up, and then the bracket bolt should be easy as if you get your head low, you can pretty much see it
 
View attachment 66203View attachment 66204
So the answer is, yes the starter can be taken off without removing any of the exhaust, a few things that I think make it much easier is 1. Unclip the electrical box so that you can create a little more play in the power cable to the starter, you will see why I’m a minute, 2. Don’t even bother taking the bolt off for the ground to the starter, just leave it on, pull it through and attach it to your new starter. The bolt is 13 mm holding the bracket to the block, it’s easy, the top bolt is 13mm and easy as well, actually visable, the bottom bolt is a bit of a pain to get onto as it’s blind but once you do, easy as well, just pull your socket and extension out very carefully so you don’t drop the bolt in the hull, I’m going to try some kind of wax to hold the bolt in my socket while putting it back in. Once you have the 3 bolts out, pull the starter back to the rear of the ski 3 or 4 inches and then you can see the power wire nut. Installation is going to be reverse, put the power wire on first while visible, put the ground cable in the starter first and fish it through, put the top bolt in all the way but not super tight so the bottom hole is relatively lined up, and then the bracket bolt should be easy as if you get your head low, you can pretty much see it
 
4923A964-C94E-4797-882F-509B151CCEED.jpeg
So I got the new used starter put on, starts great, no more glitchy starting. Yes the old starter looked pretty rusty. Anyway to tell if the old starter is OEM? If it is I would like to rebuild it so
I have another spare on hand. The one I put in says Denso on it, is that a good name? It’s definitely aftermarket because it looks brand new. Took a compression test cause I’m always worried that I’ve hurt the machine somehow, 140 Mag and 130 PTO, so should be good for another 30 to 40 hours of riding before rebuild is necessary. Cleaned that fuel pressure relief valve, put a new through hull grommet and new vent line to it, still have the grey lines off the T going to the valve under the hood, will probably do that someday just so all those grey lines are gone but I’m sure it’s fine as it draws air in and is up high. 😀😀😀😀, pretty much ready for the water except for putting a few zip ties back on electrical wires and putting clip back on seat. Thanks @POPPS and @2strokeboy
 
Oh by the way, changing this without removing exhaust can be done, that’s how I did it, went well except for putting that bottom bolt in, I struggled with it for about an hour, just wouldn’t start threading in, a few choice words changed its mind though, had that bottom bolt have threaded right in, I would definitely recommend doing it this way but.....
 
Check this out
 
That is quite interesting never knew honestly
Check this out
 
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