95 XP driveshaft bumpers

[pawn]

At the advice of some knowledgeable people here, I pulled my pump out today and checked to see if I have rubber bumpers on each end of my impeller drive shaft. The results: yes, I have one on the impeller end (which is weird because the issue was raised because mikidymac thought it looked like my drive shaft was in too far towards the impeller).

And no, there is none at the flywheel end.

I bought some new bumpers on ebay so I'll replace the one on the impeller end and install the other one but the question I have is: what if the flywheel bumper came off some time in the past and is stuck in there somewhere at the flywheel? How would I ever know and can I do damage by putting a new one on if there's one already jammed in there? I find it way more likely someone lost the bumper and just said screw it and put it back together without it but I don't want to mess it up.

Edit: Hmm, the bumpers are smaller than the one I already have on the impeller end (i.e., not as thick and would actually mean the drive shaft moves further into the impeller boot) and the part that sticks into the drive shaft is too big and there's no way to push it in. I think I got "shafted" on these bumpers. Or maybe someone used the wrong drive shaft?

These are what I bought:

NEW DRIVE SHAFT BUMPERS SEA-DOO 1995-1997 HX 1997 SP 1996 SPX 1995 XP 720CC | eBay

 

[mikidymac]

Oem.

 

[pawn]

Thanks, mine were about the same (diameter about a millimtre less).

Biggest problem was the grease I had to clean out of the flywheel end of the shaft to get the bumper to go in. Cleaned it out and used a little silicone to make it stick while I put the shaft back in and everything's back together (hopefully for the last time for a couple of years). Need to wait for my Hillbilly silicone on the pump flange to set up so I'll report back with results tomorrow.

 

[pawn]

Took it out today and runs fine. I'd swear there's less rattling around but who knows. Still takes on quite a bit of water though (more than I think is normal) so the bumpers weren't a magic fix-all. I imagine there's something missing or wrong in all the seals/clamps/couplers/carbon ring in the drive shaft assembly. The water doesn't bother me that much: maybe an inch and a half after 2 hours running and it's easy enough to drain after I'm done but again, I'd like things tip top.

Side note: man, after putting 13 hours on my 4-tech ski going back to the two stroke scared me a lot - everything sounded wrong and it felt like it's working so much harder than the bigger boat but I think things are OK. Today was also the first time out with fully working gauges (now that I have a working multigauge and fuel sending unit). What a treat to know how much gas I have

 

[etemplet]

Resurrecting this thread. I am working on a 1998 GTX Limited. The Serial numbers fall within the range that uses the lip seal water seal configuration. It doesn't look like it calls for the rubber bumpers. When I took this thing apart it had one rubber bumper on the impeller end and nothing on the PTO end. Looks like the shaft is machined a bit differently on the PTO end as well. It almost looks like a rubber bumper if it wasn't metal. I'm about the install the drive shaft with rubber bumpers on each end and call it a night. I'm still researching.

 

[etemplet]

I have a picture from the 1998 SeaDoo Manual that shows the rubber bumpers on each end of the GTX Limited so I am going that route unless something profound occurs to change my mind. I did notice quite a bit of rattling at times when I took the ski out for break in. What thew me with the bumper was that the parts list site showed the bumper in dashed lines with no part numbers and stated serial numbers in this range use this drawing. Then on the same page was the pushing type seal configuration with the bumpers clearing marked with an item and part number. So.... I didn't want to stop but I did. I wonder if it would be safe to say that all shafts should have a bumper on each end??

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I believe the bumper helps to maintain maximum spline engagement otherwise I suppose you could run without. As far as I know, both ends have the bumper but there are a lot of reports of missing bumpers.

 

[etemplet]

I was concerned having a bumper where one wasn't needed would put excessive thrust on the system.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, a valid concern. Of course my goal would be to maximize spline engagement AND confirm no binding.

 

[etemplet]

That usually means for me to remove the intake grate and grab the drive shaft and see if I can move it back and forth a tad or 3.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, that's what I'd do, or reach into the bilge if there's room. Confirm having both bumpers isn't pre-loading the bearings or creating a bind of some sort. I don't believe that will be the case, my suspicion is they didn't install the front bumper to save a few pennies as they deemed it was unnecessary anyway.

You're not the 1st to bring up this question, sorry I just don't recall the details of the correct answer in all cases. My recollection is install both, with the caveat my memory fails me occasionally. Maybe my que needs purging or the bit-bucket's full? There's a lot of things I can't do/recall anymore....

 

[etemplet]

I don't think Bombardier would cushion thrust on one end and not the other. It would be metal to metal. Following 20 years of mechanics is tedious sometimes especially when I don't have familiarity with the model. This ski used the lip seal carrier bearing set up. I"m comfortable that every drive shaft should have bumpers on each end. I'd call it a damper. Ski sure made a heck of a racket a couple of times when I took it out for break in. Thanks for your input.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, if there's room which I think there is, I'd want both bumpers.

Agree they can be noisy and the're all comparable I think unless something's awry like a bent shaft vibration resulting from a tow-rope incident?

I've yet to met a 2-stroke configuration that was quieter and displayed pleasance of manner exceeding a similar 4-stroke.

 

[etemplet]

I want my two stroke to make some NOISE. I like expansion chambers on my bikes. A little raspy with attitude.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Wha yeah okay but don't complain if my chihuahua bites your legs off, okay?

 

[etemplet]

Yep, if there's room which I think there is, I'd want both bumpers.

Agree they can be noisy and the're all comparable I think unless something's awry like a bent shaft vibration resulting from a tow-rope incident?

I've yet to met a 2-stroke configuration that was quieter and displayed pleasance of manner exceeding a similar 4-stroke.

I gave it a go and "NO JOY" Two bumpers would not work in the GTX limited. If it's even the correct drive shaft.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Oh well, wasn't expecting that. BTW, if you're replacing a wear ring and the impeller is rubbing (too tight against the new ring to crank over) some dish soap can make a big difference. Some manuals mention this, the idea is impeller cuts (scrubs?) a minimum clearance off the wear ring in this case.

 

[Chester]

Except for the HX, 3D, and 97 - 04 XP, all Sea-Doo 2-strokes must have 2 bumper plugs on the driveshaft. If one or both is missing, you will wear out the splines on the driveshaft, impeller and/or PTO flywheel. Many times the front one gets stuck in the PTO flywheel. Just poke it with a pick to pull it out. Do not run it without both in place.

Chester