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95 speedster not cooling??

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RLSseadoo

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Posting for a friend, he rebuilt the drives with new impellers and wear rings....boat will not circulate water....i.e.....won't pee.

With garden hose hooked to flush fittings, it pees.

He swears all hoses are right, and he sealed the ride shoe today....I don't see how sucking air could be THAT much of an effect with cooling though....we did rip it down the river and no cavitation issues...just got hot.

I think some hoses are wrong, but I'm just a cable guy.

Thought I read on here that it should not pee when on a garden hose, we have been pinching off the larger hose that comes out of the cylinder head while running the hose...not sure if that's correct too.

He doesn't think it's anything with the motor (sand packed)...wtf can it be then?!
 
Flush out the hoses, flush out the passages, make sure the hoses are hooked up properly. Here's a diagram of the cooling system for a 787, yours will be similar.

Lou
 

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I would check to make sure you have good flow coming from the Jet. I had that same issue once, worked great on the hose but wouldn't on the lake. Turns out the inlet on the hose coming from the jet was blocked thus the motor would get no incoming water from the jet while on the lake.

This part is labled "Pressure Zone" on the picture seen above.
 
You can't guess, or "Think" things are right. When you have problems... double check EVERYTHING.

If you are having cavitation issues... then you won't push water into the engine. But at idle... that's not normally an issue.
 
hoses?

If it pees on the hose...more than likely hoses are connected backwards. The hose on top of the motor goes to the pee port.

Water normally comes up from the intake grate/jet pump and circulates through the engine and out the top.
When on the hose the water circulates down from the top via the hose connection and out the pump. Therefore on the hose the water flow through the engine is reversed. If the engine pees on the hose then more that likely the top hose and the exhaust hose are connected backwards.
 
657 Cooling Diagrams

Here are the proper diagrams for this system so were al on the same page . As you can see it's very simple. I colored the one diagram in here (like a 5 year old's art project) for clarity.
 

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So here is the deal, all hoses hooked up exactly the way the diagram shows. But the hell with the diagram because someone will for sure say that its wrong. I hooked them up exactly the same way they used to be hooked up. Replaced all the small clear hoses with new so flow (lack there of) can easily be seen, old ones were all yellow. Only did one engine at a time also to avoid any confusion. This boat sat for 4 years (worked fine then), I changed impellers and wear rings, pump bearings and installed the new cone with the spring to take out the end play in pump. WHEN REMOVING THE SUPPLY HOSE FROM THE PLASTIC TUBE (the one that threads directly into pump housing then goes thru hull) JUST INSIDE THE HULL WE GET NO WATER OTHER THAN GRAVITY OFF THE JET. The three holes in the bronze housing are wide open, as we proved by back flushing. We connect bulk hose to that and run the engine in all different conditions, we only get water when underway at a good rate of speed. Shouldn't this supply water like a garden hose, I mean we just get a spit spit unless going very fast. My point is why do we care about anything further forward if we don't have good supply from the jet.
 
THE POST ABOVE WAS TO CLARIFY THE PROBLEM. Yesterday, we removed both pump housings from the ride plate, removed all screws and seeing as it wasn't going to come off without breaking I used mass quantities of the right stuff sealer and sealed all gaps / seams inside and out, screw holes, etc. Removed intake grate as well to facilitate getting arm in to seal more spots. Also we had put the boat and trailer up in the air 6 feet on a car lift in an auto shop to preform the above mentioned. So we for sure got to every spot and didn't miss a thing. Even put huge bead all the way around the where the pump housing seals to the hull (on top the foam seal). It will be a bitch to get off next time, but I wanted to be certain no air or turbulent water, whatever could enter and cause some weird air lock or bubbles, etc. Also greased the thru hull fitting, we never did this before, allegedly they can suck air ?? Hit the river, no water out the pee holes and only steam out when removing the temp sensor. Let it cool down, drove boat determined at full power and fast MPH we get cooling and water out the pee holes. One motor does seem to get more water to it than the other. We ripped up and down a 3/4 mile stretch of river with 3 guys at 50mph for about 45 minutes to see what would happen. It was fine, but still want's to get hot when not underway with high throttle and speed. FYI with two guys in boat it was turning just under 7k and doing 55mph. Some tuning may be needed as I remember it used to bury the spedo with two guys. Who cares about that problem right now, just want to get the damn thing to cool. I'm ready to put an electronic pump in line to force it to cool. Also contemplating pulling the head on the one that has less flow to look for debris, should I be concerned about breaking bolts ? Looks like they just just o-rings for head gaskets ?

Thanks in advance. Randy
 
Putting an external pump is line is going to do nothing except restrict the water flow. If you have exhausted all other possibilities it's time to pull the head and check for debris or sand in the cooling passages in the cylinder heads and the head itself.

Lou
 
Yeah I'm that was my next step but..... It doesn't seem to make sense. When I get free again I'm going to take it to the launch and run the hell out of them with the bulk hose on the inlet off the impeller housing again. I should get water here first, seems pointless to pull head if I have no water coming off the jet. Then to further prove the motors are fine before pulling heads I will hook the garden hose right to the supply line that is supposed to go to the jet. I'll see what it does first at a steady small stream of water. If the water doesn't want to make it thru then I will know blockage exists. I know almost for sure (but I'll test for the 4th time) that I will have no water flow or very very little coming off the jet. How much water should we have here ??? I will preform the test again but want to say at around 3k in gear I may only get 1gpm.
 
Be careful running "the hell out of" the engine with no cooling, I wouldn't do that at all.

When you put the garden hose on the line going to the engine, be sure the engine is running right before turning on the water, and turn the water off before shutting it down.

If the pump is working, and the three holes in the pump and through fitting for the line are all clear, it should pump water. Maybe you got some rtv in the fitting when you reinstalled the pump.
 
Yeah no RTV checked that long ago. Had housings off again since also. I didn't mean to run for long period of time just at higher power, I'm thinking about 45 sec max then letting cool for 5 min or so before attempting again. I replaced the plastic tubes that thread into the impeller housing bc old ones were brittle ant they were like $2 each. Even removed them again to ensure they were properly manufactured and didn't have a 1/8" ID where they should have had a 3/8" ID they're cool. Hooked garden hose to plastic fitting and back flushed. The water comes out like 3 power washer jets. When back flushing the motor (thur proper seadoo flush fitting) I even get water out the three holes. That alone tells me the block isn't full of crap. Possible I'm sucking air thru the seadoo flush fittings ? Although they have that red cap, maybe I'll try to pinch off. I still need to verify again that I have no or little water coming off the jets. Again does anybody know how much I should see ? Garden hose style or just a little spit spit ? Is the motor supposed to have suction on the one side of the TEE to help draw it up ? When looking at the supply hose from the jet and when putting water thru it with the garden hose the water going thru it creates suction on the TEE (90deg) side. No way this can be avoided, unless the TEE was turned. However its proper because the hoses still have the original otaker clamps on them. I dunno will make more tests hopefully on Friday.
 
I realize what I just quickly typed about the garden hose and suction may have sounded super confusing. So here's a pic of what I mean, see notes.
 

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