95 speedster no spark , no start no nothing.

[achtungbabi]

HI everyone. have finally got to the 95 speedster that i have imported ( the 1999 challenger sold and out on the water.)

THe problem i have is we are unable to get any crank , motion or anything from the engines. So far we have,

Replaced batteries with brand new and fully charged.

Topped up the ooil to mid way.

topped up fuel to abuot a 1/4.

there is no key with the boat so have removed the ignition barrell and replaced with a simple on off switch.

To me there looks like there is no DESS.

on the console next to the steerer there is the nav and accessories light switch - no lights work found to be globes.

the bilge pump switch we works when turned to the left ( bilge.) but nothing happens when turned to the battery. should anything happen? if so what?

the air blower works as well . with fan working in the engine bay.

there is a push button switch ( push and comes back up itself) where i suspect a dess should be if one was installed on a 1995. ( i only have a manual for a 1996)

is this actually a dess in some different form? if it is a dess is there anyway to bypass.

I can post a picture tommorow.

By pressing the start button there is a click in the engine bay like a relay wanting clicking over and the fuel guage moves to the correct amount of fuel. which i know is normal.

At this point should tehre be any noise from the fuel pumps?

we try to start with either engine and nothing. after a minute or so ( and only every now and then there is one long beep.

Really at a loss here.

If there is anyone out there that can help or suggest fixes or things to try please make them known.

I fear it maybe the computer module or something like that.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[achtungbabi]

Also wanted to add , that when the boat was received. the batteries were completely dry. I mthinking it may be relays or the lanyard. but the lanyard does not have a dess like the 1999 challenger did. is it needed? can it be bypassed?

should there be a fuel pump noise or something before the engines will kick over?

any help would be great

CHeers

Matt

 

[fzandome]

Start procedures...

put forward/reverse in neutral
make sure lanyard is attached
Make sure key is on.
push start button.

Nothing special to it really!

The battery switch is to have both batteries on line if one goes bad or is weak. You hold it in position until the eng starts.

Fuse issues maybe?

 

[fzandome]

You can download the operator manual from this link...

http://12.2.215.22/og/default.asp?S...9e68c2326c89e&Lang=EN&brands=SEADOO,SPORTBOAT

You can download a repair manual from this site if you get a premium membership

Good luck

 

[achtungbabi]

Starboard wants to turn over Port has nothing.

HI guys,

thanks for the advice. seems that the battery push down switch was faulty. have removed and replaced.

Now i can get the starboard motor to turn over. it cranks and has spark but no start. Im thinking with the boat and this engine that because it has sat for over 5r years the petrol may take a while to move through the lines. not so much of a problem.

MOre to the problem is the port engine. which has nothing.

When i hit the start button for the port side the relay for the starboard side clicks loudly and there is nothing more. NO cranking and no spark in the port side Have test volts to the ECM / spark control on the starboard side and when the engine is turned over there is 12 volts and it wants to start strong.

On the Port side there is 12 volts in , nothing to the starter motor . im thining that there is a problem with the lower relays or the starter? would i be right in saying that.

Could the port engine be seized and i would see the same symptoms?

any ideas or next steps.

tomorow im going to check fuel supply to each engine
check power supply to the port starter motor.
check all the connectors and then hope and pray!!!

 

[fzandome]

Here is what the manual indicates

Starter will not turnover

1. Burnt MPEM supply fuse

2. Poor contact of battery or ground cables connections

3. Weak Battery

4. Poor contact or open circuit of: Ignition switch, start/stop switch, boost switch, safety lanyard switch, or solenoid.

Page 08-07-3

As for the beeps.

One short beep when moving shifter toward neutral. Confirms shifter is in neutral position.

Four short beeps while pushing the start button...
Shifter is NOT in neutral position.

Eight short beeps
Faulty MPEM

Continuously beeps
Engine overheating.

If many problems are encountered MPEM will send only one error code. When that problem is solved, it will send a second code until there is no more problem.

Page 08-05-2

Good luck

 

[achtungbabi]

Here is what the manual indicates

Starter will not turnover

1. Burnt MPEM supply fuse --- Tried that one no problem

2. Poor contact of battery or ground cables connections ---- Brand new terminals

3. Weak Battery ----- brand ne w fully charged batteries

4. Poor contact or open circuit of: Ignition switch, start/stop switch, boost switch, safety lanyard switch, or solenoid. ------- must be this one ???

Page 08-07-3

As for the beeps.

One short beep when moving shifter toward neutral. Confirms shifter is in neutral position.

Four short beeps while pushing the start button...
Shifter is NOT in neutral position.

Eight short beeps
Faulty MPEM

Continuously beeps
Engine overheating.

If many problems are encountered MPEM will send only one error code. When that problem is solved, it will send a second code until there is no more problem.

Page 08-05-2

Good luck

Thanks for that i have checked the batteries, brand new two days ago and fully charged. New Terminals on the battery leads. Fuse for the MPEM / ECM should be okay as its working for one side??? the fuse is a little loose in the holder.

will recheck the terminals on everything.

Could the terminals on the starter be a problem? if so would i not see 12 volts on the positive that heads to the starter when the start switch is hit?

why would the starbord relay click and the port side have nothing? even no spark? or is it reliant on the starter?

 

[fzandome]

Put the fuel selectors on reserve and try it again. Does the boat have the gray fuel line.... issues with that Also check the fuel filters. There are two on the eng compartment bulkhead behind the seats. They are small about three inches by 1 1/2 inches...The carbs also have one each but they take work to get to them... You might want to rebuild them at some point in time.

 

[achtungbabi]

Put the fuel selectors on reserve and try it again. Does the boat have the gray fuel line.... issues with that Also check the fuel filters. There are two on the eng compartment bulkhead behind the seats. They are small about three inches by 1 1/2 inches...The carbs also have one each but they take work to get to them... You might want to rebuild them at some point in time.[/QUOTE

have tried that . am going to replace the fuel filters in the moring. i have 30 litres of fuel in the tank and it barely gets off empty. could that be a reason?

anything else on the port engine non cranking or the relay click?

Fuel lines are the black type.

 

[achtungbabi]

will the automotive fuel filters of the same size do the job? or do i need specialist seadoo ones?

 

[fzandome]

Looks like the engines have a set of fuses for each engine. I think the ones your are looking for are the 15 A and 5 A. The 15 A is for the charging system.... don't know if the starters are linked here and the 5 A are for the MPEM supply Alimentation MEM tribord... whatever that means. I'd try to move the 15 A around or check them to see what happens. Don't see fuse that is Starter only related

Also the engines have magneto. so probably no spark until the eng turns over.

If you can turn the output shaft eng is OK.... remove the shield..... Don't forget to grease those bearings. Two fitting there... only enough grease till you see some bulging. Manual indicates every ten hours of operations. I do mine more.

 

[fzandome]

I would go with sea-doo if I had to replace... They are not throw away. I removed mine and clean them out with a little fuel... Not much on them... Somebody here said not to use carb cleaner on the ones in the carbs as it eats them up.... don't know if the same situation applies on those...

Mind the O-rings... You don't want a leak there

Good luck mate.... .

 

[fzandome]

There is issues with the fuel floats... A lot of the era boats have inop fuel gages... Have to replace a part in the tank... Have no experience with that but I saw the parts on various websites. google it and I sure you can find a replacement part. It might even be on this forum if you use the search feature.

 

[achtungbabi]

Looks like the engines have a set of fuses for each engine. I think the ones your are looking for are the 15 A and 5 A. The 15 A is for the charging system.... don't know if the starters are linked here and the 5 A are for the MPEM supply Alimentation MEM tribord... whatever that means. I'd try to move the 15 A around or check them to see what happens. Don't see fuse that is Starter only related

Also the engines have magneto. so probably no spark until the eng turns over.

If you can turn the output shaft eng is OK.... remove the shield..... Don't forget to grease those bearings. Two fitting there... only enough grease till you see some bulging. Manual indicates every ten hours of operations. I do mine more.

All the fuses have been checked inside the Grey box. are there any others ? eg the 15 a and the 5 A that your talking about? other wise all of the fuses are good and in good working order.

so the white covers on the back of the engine jsut below the fuel filters are the ones yuor talking about. take those off and see if the motor turns. if it does its an electrical problem other wise im up a creek with no paddle.

Am going to get a few new starter solonoids as well as ignition coil pack / leads in the morning at least i know that they will bne okay. and then see what happens from there.

 

[achtungbabi]

There is issues with the fuel floats... A lot of the era boats have inop fuel gages... Have to replace a part in the tank... Have no experience with that but I saw the parts on various websites. google it and I sure you can find a replacement part. It might even be on this forum if you use the search feature.

Looking into the fuel tank it doenst look like there is a lot of fuel in there so i may be right with the very low movement of the fuel guage.

will check it with another 25 litres put in and see if that moves the guage.

just really want this port motor to at least crank. will put the thinking cap on, the cleaning cap and see what i can come up wit tommorrow. am going to test in this order if its right.

1. motor see if spins free hand
2. all connections between battery and solinoid, solinoid and igntion coil , coil to spark plugs.
3. Perhaps replace the spark plugs and leads.
4. have no idea after that.

 

[unclejay]

Try this

The port engine starting problem is common and here is the frequent cause - improper grounding.

There should be a black ground wire going from the port engine starter motor to the right battery and also a black jumper wire from the right battery to the left battery. Remove this ground and you only have ground thru the engine mounts which results in a low voltage start and click click solenoid.

Some of your other questions

"nothing happens when turned to the battery. should anything happen? if so what?"

That switch is used to put both batteries in parallel so you can crank either engine if a battery dies.

The push down black switch is for the lanyard, it is not a DSS lanyard but it is a simple switch holder. it must be there.

 

[achtungbabi]

The port engine starting problem is common and here is the frequent cause - improper grounding.

There should be a black ground wire going from the port engine starter motor to the right battery and also a black jumper wire from the right battery to the left battery. Remove this ground and you only have ground thru the engine mounts which results in a low voltage start and click click solenoid.

Some of your other questions

"nothing happens when turned to the battery. should anything happen? if so what?"

That switch is used to put both batteries in parallel so you can crank either engine if a battery dies.

The push down black switch is for the lanyard, it is not a DSS lanyard but it is a simple switch holder. it must be there.

Hey there Uncle Jay, shoiuld i be checking the connections at each end of the starter the solinoid as well as the battery?

ALso we have removed the DSS lanyard ( equivalent) as this was faulty and not letting any current / voltage move through. Is a simple onm off swtich.

Will the port engine problem only let a click from the solonoid in the grey ecm box be heard only with nothing else at all? there is nothing at all from the engine or the starter. I fear that the engine may be seized. Will do the free spin check today.

For your info though the batteries are brand new and fully charged. Connections to the batteries have been cleaned. The ones to the Grey box and to the starter have not been cleaned.

When takin volt readings across the solinoids when cranking the starboard they all register 12 volts. ( lead heading to the starter)

when over the port solinoids and cranking the wire to the starter shows 0 volts so im leaking towards a solinoid problem would it be a logical solution.?