95 GTX Troubleshooting suggestions

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kma4444

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Hey all, been lurking here but decided to register today as I am currently getting my butt handed to me by a 95 GTX.

Been sitting for a few years, luckily inside. So the tasks I did were fuel lines, removed and cleaned the tank, it wasn't bad, just a little stale fuel but not terrible. Rebuilt the carbs and cleaned the fuel selector. The jets in the carbs are stock and the pop off is 26 on both.Settings are 1 1/4 LS and 1/4 HS. Replaced the 3/32 oil lines.

So initially it started great on the trailer, didn't run it but a little bit. Lots of smoke, presumably from oil weeping into the crankcase while sitting.Took it to the lake and left it on the trailer, started right up, still smoking but cleared up in a few minutes. Had fuel leaking from the fuel pump sides of them so I took it back home. Made sure the flanges were flat on the pump housing and the other carb, took a little sanding to get them so. Put them back together and all was fine. Put in the lake and went for a ride. Ran alright, kind of hesitant on accel but if you nursed it you could get it past that and it ran well at speed. Really I was surprised at how quick it was. The wife has an 02 with the 951 and this one is at least as quick, power to weight I suppose.

Anyway, I fiddled with the adjustments a bit and didn't make any real progress, I could make it worse but not much better. So Back out and home. Plugs were fairly crappy looking so I got a new set of NGKs and went and filled the tank completely. Went out this morning and had kind of the same thing, I wanted to make sure it was warm so I ran it about 10 minutes then stopped to make an adjustment. I did that a couple times and never made any real progress. Still wasn't wanting to accelerate cleanly, if you hurried it, it would hesitate but if you backed off a bit, it would pick up and go well. It ran better at 7/8 throttle than it did at WOT.I wanted to make one more adjustment then do a WOT plug read. It never started again after I shut it off to make that adjustment. Seemed to not be getting any fuel.Plugs were dry but it just spun and grumbled a tad.

Got towed back to the dock thinking quick fix. Took the carbs off and after checking everything again, spraying through all the passages etc, wanting to make sure that wasn't part of the WOT problem. I found a bizarre thing. The disk check valve for the inlet side of the pump looked like it had been hit with a punch at the edge. I can't imagine how it got like that as I replaced them during the rebuild. Also it pumped and ran pretty good so I dunno. I installed another disk knowing it was healed.

Put the carbs back on, ski still in the water, and nothing. I took them back off and checked the pump by the suggestions here, check valves all worked and the diaphragm held pressure, I could even get it to pull a vacuum on the inlet by sucking and releasing the pulse port. Nothing wrong there so I put them back on. Nothing, now I took some spray cleaner, acetone based, and sprayed in the carbs, still only a little grumble from the engine, never really tries to start. I tried disconnecting the wire from the MPEM, black with red tracer, and no change. I couldn't really tell if there was a spark when I checked but when I touch it there is some current there, not earth shattering but a kick. Checked every connection I could touch but nothing stood out, one of them at the front, that go to the dash was kind of suspect but other than that all looked good.

The battery is new as of last week. It is charging overnight cause it had a hard day.

So my question isn't what is wrong, but more like, where should I start with the diagnosis. I could have a restriction in the selector valve but that doesn't explain why it doesn't start with a squirt in the carb. I was later told the ski has had the hesitation issue previously, before sitting. That is secondary at the moment unless the problems are related, ignition related??????

I'm open to a direction. I do have the FSM but when it comes to the ignition it's not much use.
 
The one thing I can tell you for sure is, if you did not use OEM gaskets for the carburetor. You will more than likely have an issue. They simply do not hold up, or are as good even from the get-go. The diaphragms get little tiny holes off on the side simply because of their poor design.
 
It wouldn't surprise me in the least if another trip through the carbs is in my short term future. Luckily, I'm now painfully adept at removing/disassembling them.

As far as the not running situation, I would be plenty happy with a basic trail I should follow. It would be great if I could start with the most likely culprit and work my way from there. Thanks very much.
 
Also did you use new needles and seats? Most people skip these because on dual setup adds like $30 to job. Use all Mikuni parts like Coastiejoe said most aftermarket companies use cheap parts in the kits. I have the same ski so I am betting their is still a fuel issue. Also those selector switch are like $20 so just replace them if you are not sure on the age or bypass right now for testing. Does you pickup tube look good also on the ski? Also install an fuel filter inline to so those little fuel filters in the carbs do get junk in them you just need to have a little stuff in them to make the ski hesitate.
 
I didn't use factory kits or new needles and seats. I will do so now. I could see that contributing to the hesitation problem. I took everything apart on the fuel system including the unit in the tank so I could clean them all so I don't think it's a foreign object issue. The filters in the carbs have been clean during my continued disassemble/reassemble routines. But I will add another filter and change the selector valve just to be sure.

I will follow the offered advice here as that's why I asked but I'm still not so sure about it not running at all. When I started it on the trailer right after I put it together it started right away with a small squirt of the cleaner. It took a couple times before it pulled fuel from the tank so I know it would run with no fuel at all in the carbs. I know it's not flooded as the plugs are still dry but it won't even start for a second with a spritz of the spray.

I will do the carbs again. Thanks very much
 
So is there a recommended vendor for the kits. I looked at the link above but I couldn't find a kit, only pieces in the factory diagrams.
 
I use osdparts.com they have everything you need and all oem mikuni stuff.

The aftermarket kits sound like they are the issue with the hesitation, but it also sounds like you have a new problem. The first thing I would do is dump a little pre-mix fuel in each cylinder and make sure it fires up to for a few seconds. Do not use carb cleaner or starting fluid for this as there is no oil in them and you can cause damage to the engine.

If it doesn't fire at all I'd check compression and spark next. You will need the mikuni kits but if something major went wrong like a lost cylinder then you have to decide if it's worth dumping $ into. This is why I'd figure out the new problem before spending the $100+ on new carb kits.
 
Yep yep, I just took it out of the water today as I had a kitchen remodel job I needed to make progress on and I did! So first thing is a compression test. I hadn't started with this initially cause the owner said it had been rebuilt a few operational hours ago. 80 front 130 rear. I did get it to start with some spray in the carbs just to see if there was an ignition problem, but out of the water it would spin easily enough to start.

Pulled the head and both pistons are damaged so they are going to have to decide what way to go. I apologize for coming here and asking questions before I even checked the basics. Guess it was sick and getting worse regardless of the carb work.

Thanks guys.
 
Ugh, sorry to hear the engine is toast but at least you found out before spending more $ on it. Unless it's in perfect cosmetic condition it may make more sense to start looking for a different ski or a donor with a good engine. You'll have around 700 in that one for a rebuild.
 
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