95 GTX stuck carb bolt

[seadooer2022]

Trying to remove carb to do rebuild, but 2 of the mounting bolts are frozen real good and are somewhat rounded, tried these, no luck.

The lexicon are triple square, but m6 was way to loose and the m8 was too big.
Thinking about getting some kind of bold extractor, what to get? If those failed, what other options do I have?
Ps, already soaked bolts with pb blaster

The two are near the starboard hull, carb is still mounted to the engine right now

 

[seadooer2022]

if I remove the rotary valve cover, I think that's what the carbs are mounted to, would I have to redo the timing?

 

[nibroc]

at least check it

 

[burtshaver2021]

You won’t have to re do the timing unless you take the valve itself off, taking the rotary cover off won’t require it to be timed

 

[seadooer2022]

You won’t have to re do the timing unless you take the valve itself off, taking the rotary cover off won’t require it to be timed

would it require anything new, like a gasket or seal etc

 

[burtshaver2021]

would it require anything new, like a gasket or seal etc

Probably not,, the 717 uses a rubber oring that is re usable. I would think that it would be the same on your 657. You should be able to confirm it with the manual or the parte catalogue but I would be almost positive it would be an oring as well. Another good spot to look is the parts fiche in seadoowarehouse.com.

 

[mikidymac]

On a 20+ old engine you should replace the o-ring. It is a good spot for a air leak.

 

[seadooer2022]

I got this on Amazon, it provided a good bite but the head simply just broke off. I had to use a cheater bar , not enough clearance for my impact. I'm thinking just take an angle grinder to it and cut off the bolt between the carb and the intake manifold, then just pick up an used manifold on eBay.

PS, I don't think I could back out the mounting bolts on the rotary valve cover, not enough clearance.

 

[seadooer2022]

I read that you were supposed to be able to remove the rotary valve with the carb attached, how is that possible, the two bolts are blocked in by each other , pump bolt blocked by valve cover, valve cover bolt blocked by pump

 

[mikidymac]

Open end wrench.
Cover will come off with the bolts still in the holes.

This is why I won't touch saltwater skis.

 

[seadooer2022]

3 of the valve cover bolts came off, but the one below the fuel pump (next to the oil pump) is impossible to get to, Any tips? One thought is to cut short the open end wrench so it can fit in the tiny tiny space.

Hope this helps whoever runs into the same fate as me, here's how I got around bolt no. 3

Remove the 3 fuel pump bolts, loosen no 4 just enough, then rotate pump out of place then you will have room to back out the cover bolt

 

[seadooer2022]

Got the valve cover off, anything to watch out for before I lift the whole cluster out? As long as I don't remove the gear, then I won't mess up the timing, right?

 

[burtshaver2021]

Correct, as long as you don’t remove the valve that has has the toothed hole that’s riding on the rotary shaft

 

[seadooer2022]

Might as well replace the oil filter and oil line, what size is the line between the tank and the filter. I know from pump to carb is 3/32.

 

[mikidymac]

No reason to replace the oil line unless it is cut.
Yes, replace the filter and the little 3/32" oil lines from the pump to the intake.

 

[seadooer2022]

Got the cluster out, is it possible to rebuild with the carbs still attached to the intake manifold? Wanted to avoid drilling out the stuck bolts.

Also, does my RV cover look ok? No need to resurface it, right?